oil starvation problem?

cossie1600

Water temp makes more sense yes. Oil temp I don't see it

clintfocus

Oh ok well at 220 degrees water I'm glad the car pulls power lol

wstar

I've been fine so far (cross fingers), and I definitely beat my engine up mercilessly mid-corner. Just good cooling (rarely cross the 220 oil temp mark these days - sometimes 225, but I can't even remember the last time it hit 230) + the AMPerf baffled pan. I also keep my redline down: in UpRev I have my soft limit at 7450 and my fuel cut at 7600. It's not worth the reduced engine life to me to try to squeeze an extra few-hundred revs out of it.

I'd love to rebuild the engine with stronger internals, better bearings, and a dry sump. But for that kind of money, I'd rather drop in a cheap and well-prepped LS1 conversion, since there's no rules prohibiting me from going down that road. For now I'll keep trucking on what I've got until it blows up and triggers the LS1 process

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7AT Track Car!
Journal thread / Car setup details

Boss_302

8000 rpm in engine with a wet oil system is about tops. At that point you are heading into dry sump system $$$. Oil capacity, how fast the oil returns to the oil pick, pan baffles and how good your crank scraper is comes into play with a good wet system. There is a cohesion effect from the oil whipping around the crankshaft when it rotates at those speeds and keeps the oil suspended in motion. A good crank scraper is a must.
The Accusump has been around for as long as I can remember and I'll be 60 this year, The poor mans dry sump it was called. But it's good cheap insurance.

clintfocus

ill stick to shifting between 7300 and 7500

Shamu

Typo on my part. "Lack" of lead content. The newer environmentally friendly bearings from Nissan haven't done well with higher oil temps. Issues in GTR motors as well.

As long as you guys are ok with shortening life of a motor that should last 200k miles. I'd do all I could to assure temps are kept below 240.

I knew I was going to rebuild my motor so had some fun with raising RPMs to 8000 at a couple events about 20 minutes running with that redline. Pretty clear to me you want to keep revs and oil temps as low as possible on stock internals VQ. I have pics to prove what happens and my motor only had 15k miles mostly street miles. Based on my experience I just wouldn't be cocky about running 250 oil temps and would be looking for more cooling to extend your enjoyment of the stock motor.

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Grant

Shamu

Having been long term air cooled Porsche guy this was only oiling solution I was comfortable with my VQ track car build.

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Grant

Rusty

Show off!

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"The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only"
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Shamu

Hey what can I say! I love showing off other peoples great work! JWT is all over this and really have come up with incredibe setup. Its amazing all the little specially engineered tricks that they have used to make all this come together. One critieria I had early on was to dry sump this motor. And its been interesting learning expereince to see what has to be done. Brian at Valykyrie knows it all now too! He has seen all tricks that need to be done to turn these motors into reliable track power plants. JWT is an invaluable resource in building this motor for us and to push traditional VQ limits as this is high compression stoker that hasnt been seen on track circles yet! Brian and I are now working on how we will keep this beast cool. I spec'd ethonol fuel as one strategy to keep top end temps lower but we are looking at massive oil cooling strategy. Start with very large air to oil cooler but may use suplemental water to oil cooler as well.

Im a guy that likes to over engineer cooling as hot motors are a real drag. ...literally.

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Grant

Rusty

Just pullin' your leg. Need someone to leave me a large sum of money, or I find a large bag of money before I could do this.

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浪人 - 殺し屋
"The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only"
http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

Shamu

Well you know what they say either you can pay now or really pay later. The drysump is one of those preventative steps that should save rebuild costs in future for a track car. So spend a few thousand on sump or rebuild motor more often. I saw how long the non dry sumped grand am motors were lasting. ...cough.

I also popped for the air oil separator as well. Im a sucker for youtube video marketing.

Dailey Engineering Air Separator vs Competitor Without Separator - YouTube

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Grant

clintfocus

im installing a prototype radiator next week that im going to be testing out in a couple weekends, if that keeps water temp completely under control, but oil temps are still on the high side, ill revist my oil cooler setup. Possibly a second core is in order

Rangerz

That is very sweet looking

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Stillen Gen III/ NST/ Fast Intentions Non-Res HFC & 12" Resonated CF TDX/ Setreb series 9 OC/ SPL upper control arms/ Whiteline front & rear swaybars/ Uprev tuned by Seb@specialtyZ/ 319HP 262TQ/ Z1 PS Cooler/ Z1 SS Premium break lines/ CJM Road Race pump/Carbotech F:XP10 R:XP8 Nismo OC DIY

roplusbee

All I can say is WOW! to that video. I think that would make most bite on their product over another or convince you to add the air/oil separator to tha package at a minimum.

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2007 350Z NISMO #0618: Zerolift | UPREV | F.I. | Greddy | Competition Clutch | Injector Dynamics | Aeromotive | Pioneer | JL

martin82

I got roughly total of 45 track days combined with tune attacks and hpde last two years w 35k miles. Ran stock radiator and 34 row setrab for that long. 34 row oil cooler and stock rad aren't to the task for cooling. Now finishing my SC build went all out on cooling. 1 34 row on passenger side and 1 25 row plus spal fan on drivers side (might upgrade later to a 34 if needed) then got the gtm oil baffled pan, 70mm radiator and high output spal fans (beast). I'm at over 10 quarts of oil