Track setup with stock suspension?
 

Have 4 HPDE under my belt on a bone stock 40th, and plan on doing 4-6 per year going forward. Will be adding an oil cooler so I don't have to let up on the car later in the day. I know the stock suspension has very little adjustability, but wondering if it's possible to maximize whatever capabilities it may have to be more track friendly. It'll serve as a daily driver as well, and I'm not much of a wrencher, so need a dual purpose setup anyways.

My interests are safety and durability. The car still far exceeds my driving skill, so I have very little interest over investing in upgrades. I get my kicks by spending money for track time, rather than blingy parts.

FWIW - will be driving in Northern California tracks: Thunderhill, Sonoma, Laguna Seca.

I guess the question is - does it have some range of adjustability, so that it's worth requesting a performance alignment? If not, then I guess I need to go with factory spec.

I would go with a slightly performance oriented alignment setup. The key is to find a place that will really dial in your car for you.

For instance there are ranges of adjustments, you can be all the way on the upper edge on one side and all the way on the lower edge on the other side. While it will still be "stock alignment specs" it will not be a good alignment.

-Mike Paisan

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Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001.
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I have about the same experience as you. I think if you are staying stock zero toe on the front give much better steering input and turn in than the stock setting. For the rear you can add some camber -1.8 is about what everyone says is the sweet spot. I added the SPL upper control arms and dialed in -2.5 camber up front and it is night and day the traction difference from the stock camber.

Just my .02 :tup:

It has very little adjustment. Mostly enough to keep it within stock settings through normal daily driving over the years. But that doesn't mean much. You can still rip it up. Little bit of camber (-1.5) and just keep the toe at zero. Most do. But make sure the shop gets it to zero toe or spec. Don't let them be lazy. It will destroy your tires quick if off.

If and when you plan to do a serious track alignment. Let me know. It will make your car turn like nobodies business.

I'm looking for info on tracking my 40th...hope it's ok if I revive this thread!

I just got my 40th in November, so I haven't tracked it yet (or driven it on any of DC's ridiculously hot summer days). I've done HPDE in two previous cars, though. I'm already planning to get an oil cooler before I ever track it, based on this article, but how have your OEM brakes held up? My track days are relatively light -- four 20-minute sessions -- but I'm not interested in suddenly losing my brakes on a hot day. Should I look into the brake-cooling ducts mentioned in the article?

Some people seem to think that Zs just aren't made to be tracked, but I can't imagine not tracking this car! How much do I really need to worry about boiling oil and evaporating brake fluid/pads? Do plenty of people track Zs with no major problems?

Love the username:tiphat:

a oilcooler, ss brake lines, motul rbf 600 or equal, stock break pads are ok but, you will want to upgrade at some point. Cooling ducts are a plus but, not a necessity for your first couple of weekends.

Just my 2 cents.... new tires will be the biggest improvement you see in terms of grip and corner speed, not to mention driver comfort level when pushing hard.

You better not be driving fast for any extended period of time on stock pads, else you will learn quickly

:iagree:

listen to Cossie way more experience than I have. I got rid of the stock pads after my secondtrack weekend.

As a beginner HPDE driver, these minimal brake system mods are holding up OK, and in 110-120 degree whether to boot. Fluid change to Motul, brakepads to StopTech Street Performance, and tires to Michelin Pilot Super Sports. I asked my shop about the brake cooling duct kit and he said it was overkill. I don't ever intend on running R compounds so I think this will be fine for a while, though I can see a case where getting an even more track worthy pad will be needed.

Will be putting in a 25 row oil cooler (that you will need), and then debate the suspension tweak vs mod. Trying to strike that balance between track worthy and street worthy, with minimal effort.

Tires will do way more than suspension. A set of r comps with stock suspension will make you faster than street tires with coilovers

Thanks!

I replaced the OEM tires in January because I got tired of trying to drive on hockey pucks (during the snow and extreme low temps we got here). I got a set of high-performance all-season Eagle F1s. I had the same tires on my Mazda RX-8, and they tracked well enough while also being fine for daily driving.

(The front right tire is actually only a month old, because I hit a killer pothole. :mad: I might have to replace the rear left tire soon, too: I'm getting it checked out this weekend 'cause something took a small chunk out of the rubber at some point, and I'm concerned about the integrity of the tire if it gets hot.)

Excellent note; thanks! :cool:

Cool (ha!), thanks.