Brake temp after cool down lap at rotor and caliper
 

Anyone have them?. I never checked mine before the brake duct, so I have no reference. I am still doing 600f in front after one cool down lap, sounds high. What do you guys have

Holy shít that's high

Yeah I completely boiled my fluid today, little scary. This is with the brake duct too. To be honest, not sure if it really helps that much lol

Which fluid were you running?

I don't think that's the problem. Honestly OP, I know you track a lot, but you gotta start tracking without using your brakes as often. That's the issue I'm seeing... And/or the ducts aren't properly hooked up

This. I've seen it at mid ohio with the mustang class on speed years back. They were all crashing and losing brakes. It wasn't equipment failure, it was driver. You can't act like its grand turismo and go 100% into every corner and 100% brake last minute then turn.

That does sound high after 1 cool down lap. What rotors are you using? Is this at a track known to be hard on brakes?

I was routinely 550f before adding cooling ducts

I see 550 regularly in the pits, with ducts.

Brake hard

Before, he's at 600 after, and after a cool down lap.

I don't even know what pads still operate above that temp, because I'm assuming he was at 700+ before the cool down

I was on amsoil dot4, but they were older stock. I am on castrol now, shouldn't have that problem again

I am all ears if you can give me your secret on how to make a 45mph turn from 100 mph without the brakes

Generic cheapies, yes mostly 3rd gear bend from 90mph

Endless MX72's are capable of running those temps 600-800
I believe even the nismo pads (the ones offered as an addon from the dealer) are rated from 600-700.

If he's running a pad and a fluid that's capable of those conditions, I don't think its inconceivable that he could hit those temps without over using his brakes. I've been informed that even a Motul RBF 600 can and will boil within 1 or 2 sessions at the track. It's recommended that for our cars using a GL5 fluid rated for 650+ is the way to go, at least that's what been passed on to me by corner3 garage, their knowledge being based on interaction with martin82...so take from that what you will

I wasn't trying to be an ásshole... Maybe just need to use the engine braking more, don't be afraid to downshift when the next gear down would take the car to redline... One, let alone 5 hard stops from 100 to 45 won't raise your brake temps to that high

Doing it over a 15-20 minute period will, plus I just don't think there is enough cooling on this car to make the heat go away. The duct opening is so small that I don't even know if enough air is really going in there. I need to stick a meter in there to test it out.

Carbotech XP10s have "fade resistance is in excess of 1650°F" and I don't doubt for a moment that instantaneous temps get over 1000.

I don't think the 2" Stillen duct inlet is sufficient by itself. Either the Nismo or something like mine will push a lot more air in.

http://www.the370z.com/attachment.ph...1&d=1390783987

Rather than waste your time quoting part specs or operating temps I will tell you what works for me.

Stock rotors, stock Akebono calipers, Castrol SRF, 3 inch brake ducts, CarboTech XP10’s all around, and stainless steel lines. This combination has worked flawlessly for me on Hoosiers at Summit Point Main and VIR.

http://www.the370z.com/members/resip...710-duct-9.jpg

It's not the absolute value I care about, I just want to know if it works. I question how effective it really is

600 degrees is not that hot for a track day.

after a cool down lap.

Thats why I said the ducts might not have work that well

I don't know of that was directed at me or him, my comment was to him because it seems like he didn't READ the thread, lol

I am just saying 600f with the duct installed, I suspect the duct don't do as much as they say

With no ducts I had the calipers at around 700 after a cooldown lap with my crappy IR thermometer.

That's helpful , so maybe it isn't completely pointless, but the stillen kit isn't a world saver

I routinely see 600

this thread would be helpful with more data so we can compare cars at the same track with different setups... spohn and i will both be at RA in a month, so we can take some measurements there... and maybe VIR after that

on a qualitative note, I would say that my car has never had an issue with motul 600 - after adding 3" ducts with naca inlets in front and SRD made plates that direct air to eye of rotor... I suspect one of the critical dimensions is the direction of airflow against the rotor (needs to be as much towards center as possible) with minimal gap between plates and rotor.

You are not going to be able to get any absolute data as there are just too many variables, from drive to weather to track to cars to even equipment. I just want to see if there are ballpark figures that we can compare. I should have recorded more data when my car was original, but I got lazy and this is what I get. Oh well

Cossie, you are on full stock trim/weight, stock power, and RS3 tires? I think it'll be great to keep those in perspective when others add in with their data as well.

I'll be at RA March 15+16 with NASA

Yeah that's why I asked. I just want to know what is normal and what isn't. I am not a nasa engineer, I don't need absolute data, ballpark is fine. I am getting better at data collection that I can see how things are happening without video and sound

As a comparison, my Z34 sees ~250C rotor temps after a cool-down lap following a half-hour session at Philip Island GP circuit (which is quite high speed, but only has 2 "big" stops and a couple of more moderate stops). A "big" stop is one which requires coming back 3 or 4 gears and a moderate stop is 1 or max 2 gears - anything else I call a "lift-and-dab". This is in a 105-108 second lap and cool downs are maybe 2m30s from the chequered flag to being back into the paddock and ready to park.

It is a stocker (no weight reduction) but with special-order DBA rotors (DBA2750 special metallurgy and heat treatment for Robinson Racing who run Falcon GT's in the Australian Production Car Championships - I got a couple of sets for my Z34 as a favour from one of their sponsors and made hats to suit), Akebono calipers and the Stillen "baby" 2" ducts fed from the fangs in the bumper. I use Endless MX72, Ferodo DS2500 and/or PMU HC+ pads depending upon what is available when I need pads. Tyres are currently Yoki A048R.

600-degF is perhaps a little high, but that is without knowing exactly what circuit you are referring to, the nature of its braking demands and the duration of the cool-down lap. IMHO, the most significant factor will be to ensure that the rotor can cool evenly which implies rolling the car forward (or back) about a quarter rotation of the wheel every 90 seconds such that the pad is not sitting on the same spot on the rotor for more than 90-seconds at a time. This will stop the pad "heat-treating" just one part of the rotor friction surface which can be a cause of brake pedal pulsation as the pad bites differently on the segments of the rotor that have seen differential cooling. I'd not stop rolling the car until rotor temps are under 150 degC

FWIW

RB

me too

It was great before I had the CJM fuel system fix. I would come off the track and drive 5-10 minutes to the gas station every session to top up, that really cooled everything down nicely. Now I don't have that option anymore since the fuel is fixed and the car isn't street legal.

Anything new regarding this?

I know my front brakes get awfully hot even with the small Stillen ducting. Even the XP10s on the front were getting pretty thick visible deposit buildup on the rotor surface last weekend. After a while I could definitely feel the rough surface of the rotor in the brake pedal in a few brake zones. Didn't warp or significantly crack the rotors though. I did drive around the paddock for a few minutes after the cooldown lap and pushed my car back and forth a bit after I parked it. Thinking of hacksawing a shallow tangential groove (and filing the edges) into the middle of the XP10s since they dont have one (even though I do use slotted rotors) and they do have those 2 small holes which are maybe intended to perform the same function?

Actually, come to think of it I did quickly borrow an IR and hit my right front rotor last weekend. I think it was right up close to 600, obviously after the cooldown lap and parking it.

Unless I'm misunderstanding you I think that is a REALLY bad idea. :P Seems like it would give you a really good chance of the pad material disintegrating.

What would you hope to gain from that?

Which is why I haven't done it and mentioned it here ;). It used to be common practice with some race teams (cutting them), (don't know if its still done, I had assumed all race application pads now had them from the factory) in fact Carrol Smith talks about it in his book Tune to Win. The goal is to give the (new and old) brake dust somewhere to go rather than being pushed back into the rotor material by the rest of the pad. This way more of the pad is seeing a clean/clear surface when it makes contact with the rotor. It also helps somewhat with cooling the pad. It doesn't have anything to do with gassing, which is a thing of the past.

Also I don't believe there is anything special about the material at the front or back edge of the pads to begin with so how would adding another front and rear edge do anything bad?

I started a new thread on this so I wouldn't be jacking your thread OP as this was getting a little long:

http://www.the370z.com/brakes-suspen...ml#post2704239