Brake temp after cool down lap at rotor and caliper
 

Anyone have them?. I never checked mine before the brake duct, so I have no reference. I am still doing 600f in front after one cool down lap, sounds high. What do you guys have

Holy shít that's high

Yeah I completely boiled my fluid today, little scary. This is with the brake duct too. To be honest, not sure if it really helps that much lol

Which fluid were you running?

I don't think that's the problem. Honestly OP, I know you track a lot, but you gotta start tracking without using your brakes as often. That's the issue I'm seeing... And/or the ducts aren't properly hooked up

This. I've seen it at mid ohio with the mustang class on speed years back. They were all crashing and losing brakes. It wasn't equipment failure, it was driver. You can't act like its grand turismo and go 100% into every corner and 100% brake last minute then turn.

That does sound high after 1 cool down lap. What rotors are you using? Is this at a track known to be hard on brakes?

I was routinely 550f before adding cooling ducts

I see 550 regularly in the pits, with ducts.

Brake hard

Before, he's at 600 after, and after a cool down lap.

I don't even know what pads still operate above that temp, because I'm assuming he was at 700+ before the cool down

I was on amsoil dot4, but they were older stock. I am on castrol now, shouldn't have that problem again

I am all ears if you can give me your secret on how to make a 45mph turn from 100 mph without the brakes

Generic cheapies, yes mostly 3rd gear bend from 90mph

Endless MX72's are capable of running those temps 600-800
I believe even the nismo pads (the ones offered as an addon from the dealer) are rated from 600-700.

If he's running a pad and a fluid that's capable of those conditions, I don't think its inconceivable that he could hit those temps without over using his brakes. I've been informed that even a Motul RBF 600 can and will boil within 1 or 2 sessions at the track. It's recommended that for our cars using a GL5 fluid rated for 650+ is the way to go, at least that's what been passed on to me by corner3 garage, their knowledge being based on interaction with martin82...so take from that what you will

I wasn't trying to be an ásshole... Maybe just need to use the engine braking more, don't be afraid to downshift when the next gear down would take the car to redline... One, let alone 5 hard stops from 100 to 45 won't raise your brake temps to that high

Doing it over a 15-20 minute period will, plus I just don't think there is enough cooling on this car to make the heat go away. The duct opening is so small that I don't even know if enough air is really going in there. I need to stick a meter in there to test it out.

Carbotech XP10s have "fade resistance is in excess of 1650°F" and I don't doubt for a moment that instantaneous temps get over 1000.

I don't think the 2" Stillen duct inlet is sufficient by itself. Either the Nismo or something like mine will push a lot more air in.

http://www.the370z.com/attachment.ph...1&d=1390783987