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That's all fine, but it relies on the same static spring perch height. Any decent shock is going to have a threaded perch for the spring, which you move up.
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That's all fine, but it relies on the same static spring perch height. Any decent shock is going to have a threaded perch for the spring, which you move up. You won't lose any dynamic bump travel, even with a 7" spring. There is a considerable weight savings to be had by using a 7x2.25" spring vs a 9-10" larger diameter spring as well. I want to say the rear was a 5 or 5.5" ID spring in the rear.
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The shocks I am considering are Koni 2812's or 2816's for the rear. Not sure I have a product selected for the fronts yet.
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http://www.koniracing.com/2812mk2.cfm You mean 2817? http://www.koniracing.com/2817.cfm
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number three, just 2812.
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You talking about the spring height moving with a sleeve around the shock body, or the whole shock body moving for height! I always thought coilovers worked by adjusting the sleeve around the shock body that the spring sits on till I watched the fortune auto video about how to set up their shock and can see the whole shocks spins around the lower mounting holes. This keeps the spring always under tension. I guess in the video they talk about lesser quality coilovers only adjusting height the first way which when lowered to much won't have an tension or preload on the spring and it will flop around till the car has weight on the top hat.
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Things evened up as they came to temp. Then my master cylinder failed and I crashed into the oil recycling station. But that is another story...
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You would want 2812's for all 4. They package better than remote shocks, but are not cheaper. You will spend $4k once all is said and done for a set. If you go that route, call Jeff Wong at ProParts.
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Question is though it still seems like you guys are talking about a thousand different ways to set it up like I'm doing all this buying of parts and it will be wrong. I want the Z to handle right and well and not put me into a wall. I guess it just seemed easier on my race bike!! I had full race built adjustable forks built, a Penske rear triple clicker shock and I took my bike in to be "dynoed" or we called it computech'd where rake, height etc was all tailored to me and my weight and besides the occasional stiffen or soften on the adjustment knobs, the bike just flicked around and felt like it was on rails! I just want it to simple I guess.
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The problem is that the front of our car doesn't like anything but a coil over solution. The back only likes a shock + spring solution. There are not a lot of products in the market that solve this problem.
KW V3 does the best job out of the box IMO. But they are also a bunch of A-holes on the phone. I personally wont buy 3000 dollar items from a company that puts idiots that "don't know" or "can't tell you" how their product works on the tech support line. So you start to look to custom solutions that will allow you to actually do what you want with the suspension tuning.
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