Having Roll Cage and eliminating some Rear Suspension components

Megan370z

another thought.


are you getting solid sub-frame bushing ?

if yes .
why ?

if you give the answer about avoiding movement of the sub-frame because of rubber bushing and to have a firmer handling

then why wouldn't keep at minimum some bracing of the bolt that hold your sub-frame

like I said I can deal with the v-brace removed but I wouldn't take out the W. since its also holding both side of the car together...

__________________
Megan Journal *Click Me* ....................One Man Team Motorsport *Click Me*

SPOHN

Holy sh!t dude. Chill out. It's a discussion. What I'm talking has nothing to do with those two big threaded studs on any level. The two braces I speak of don't come in contact with the direct subframe at all. Everything is stacked not fully bonded as out served a purpose. The pics above don't even show the way it all comes together. There's a couple things missing in the picture to bring it all together. Amazing someone gives up so easily. I thought you were cool? First it's hard to get a full understanding threw words and typing here to get full point across. Fine, I'll never ask your opinion on any crap again. Geez

__________________

GaleForce

__________________

SPOHN

Like ever other thing here

__________________

Megan370z

no hate here,

I just fail to understand your point of view with your rollcage that is infact only stiffen the body.

it has nothing to do with how the sub-frame interact and how it held under the car.

but go ahead and remove those W and v brace and even the rear one which weight like 5-8lbs ... then also those smaller one that connect the W brace & V-brace to the bolt holding the subframe...

from what you kept saying is your rollbar make your body stiff enough that you think about removing those useless parts now...


again those long bolt which hold your subframe will be even less supported if you do remove the W & V together...

but its your car ... you asked our opinion and it was like your mind was pretty much already set to remove them ... I just support the idea about the V-Brace. not the W.


dont worries ,,, it wont bother me if you stop PM me about my opinion , I received quite enough for the pass year that it hasnt served me well in the end ... but anyway I will still always answer to even someone who I dont respect *which isnt you btw... *

__________________
Megan Journal *Click Me* ....................One Man Team Motorsport *Click Me*

ResIpsa

Has anyone had a look at the Nismo RC race car?

__________________
The Reed Law Firm; Michael Fasano VA Attorney and Counselor at Law: A Virginia Traffic, Criminal, and Family Lawyer.https://reedlawva.com/

BGTV8

The braces are designed to ensure that the studs into which the rear subframe mounts are held in double-shear rather than single shear.

"IF" you are going to remove them, then the race engineer in me would want to periodically inspect the studs for cracks.

Your cage supports the bodyshell but does not directly reinforce the stud into which the subframe mounts.

If you are replacing, or have replaced, all your suspension bushes with solid, then all lateral/longitudinal loads (including shock loads from hitting things - like kerbs) are fed undamped immediately and directly into the subframe and in the absence of the braces, the studs which secure the subframe will see a bending moment which will eventually lead to fatigue in the stud.

Whether this is a fatigue load that is sufficient to warrant any concern I cannot say, but simply observing that the Nissan designers thought that double-shear mounting is required for road-car durability tells me that it is probably worth retaining.

OEM's don't add unnecessary weight to their cars without reason.

I'll simply observe that I have had some suspension breakages in race cars "at speed" over the past 40 years and not one of them was a pleasant experience, personally or financially. Personally, I'd take a guide from the NISMO RC - if they have them, then they are needed.

Hope this helps make a decision - it is up to you at the end of the day.

RB

SPOHN

After putting it all together no doubt you and Megan (cough) are correct. I just was not seeing the real picture. I had one thing in my mind. So the laterial load and effect makes perfect sence. Especially being I have all solid bushings. Just did know I was was going to get the wrath from Z God after two post. Come at me is fine but to totally disregard the topic is not helpful.

__________________

MrXistential

While on the roll cage topic...How did you mount your roll cage? Is it bolted in or welded? If it is welded to the frame what is the cage made of?

Thanks in advance.

synolimit

Click that big journal button. All you want to read is in his thread with pics etc.

__________________
13 370z-

MrXistential

not really. I have read all 55 pages. It just shows the roll bar in. Then there is a few pictures and a comment of his buddy welding the cage to the roll bar. I didn't see any mention of how he bonded steal to aluminum.

synolimit

Omg where does everyone get this? The cars steel. Aluminium cars don't weight 3400lbs. The only thing aluminium is the hood, doors, hatch and bumper beams. His first rear cage is welded to the body, you can see that..

Actually the first install I believe was in the first build.

__________________
13 370z-

SPOHN

It's all welded in. The cage is made of steel and meets most road course spec. The size of the bars, the thickness, and angles of the bars.

__________________

MrXistential

That is so damn awesome to here! Thanks synolimit I always wondered why are cars were so heavy even considering its a V6. Yes I saw how it was welded in the pics and now I understand how he was able to do it

Awesom build Sphoon been following it for a while. Think you will ever do W2W racing with it?

Dzel

Spohn have you done a complete write up on your car's weight loss? I think you should

Sent with TapAhoe

__________________
10secWS6
IF YOU CAN'T SWING IT THEN DON'T BRING IT! Check out Domestic Performance C.C.