Diff Coolers
 

Need help with a diff cooler. Anyone running a diff cooler in So CA. Price and what company did the work and what type of diff cooler.

I had tried to order the GTM diff cooler with the switch but as everyone knows, GTM is in the business of showing nice and pretty parts but never producing what they advertise (at least from my experience !)

Any help would be much appreciated

kevin in norcal pieced his own, martin and I will piece our own also

I was told the GTR one would work but Im not about to pay GTR prices.

Please let me know how it works out for you guys. Im sure Ill see you guys at the track. Looking forward to the cooler track days.

Subd

Just make your own. Use the tilton 40-524 or 40-525, a 12 row cooler if its great or 24 row if not as good of a design, 6 feet of SS hose, fittings, and oil filter before the pump. I have just under $500 in mine. Screw GTMs $1300 asking for the same ****.

If you want ill post where to buy and exact part numbers you'll need.

PM'd

ive heard of some reliability issues with the tilton pump, i was going to use the Setrab one

You're going to hear stuff about everything. Just googled and found guys running them 4 years plus without issue.

well i heard it from close friends who used them or racing, and have been told more positive things about the Setrab unit, anyone can feel free to use the tilton pump, just saying im not

Sharing with everyone. :tup:

The -8 to 18mm x 1.50 goes into the diff drain and fill holes.

Off the bottom drain hole goes the -8 to hose 45*. That will have hose that bends 45* also to go straight up and go through the trunk floor through a rubber grommet. Then 90* back to the diff pump at the rear of the trunk.

The hose then goes into the -8 hose straight.

Which then attaches to the inline filter.

Then a female to female -8 straight to attach the filter to the 3/8 to -8 nipple going into the pump.

Then of course the pump which the other side will have the other 3/8 to -8 nipple.

Off that the 3/8 nipple attaches to a 90* AN female to female which attaches to the 1/2 to -8 nipple going into the cooler.

Other side going back now has the other 1/2 to -8 nipple in the cooler and attaches to the -8 to hose 90*. That hose now does the same thing and runs down the trunk inside then 90* through the floor.

The hose then attaches to the other -8 to hose 90* which attaches to the other -8 to 18mm x 1.50.

All this can be bought at summit racing. You might find cheaper prices but summit does free shipping and every order they send a $20 off your next $100 plus order. If you buy all this $100 at a time you get $20 off every $100 order! Its hard to beat up to $60 off everything.

Pics incase anyone got confused...

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps763003ef.jpg

The gap on the lower hose is where the diff pump sits in between the two 3/8 to -8 nipples

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psb8b04275.jpg

The -8 to 18mm x 1.50 fitting to -8 to hose 45*

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psfe149dac.jpg

Only the cooler is on outside of the car. I'll be making a aluminium scoop for the cooler to sit in and catch air under the car.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psaa8749d5.jpg

This is where the 90's in the first pic attach to the 1/2 to -8 nipples in the cooler.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psdfcc331f.jpg

Well for double the price, 3 need to break on me before I spend more than the Setrab. Not to mention the warranty on every pump, so for several years I'm sure it will be fine as others again have had no issue.

I've seen several cars on fire this year from engine oil etc and how hard those fluid fires are to put out, I would stay away from running the pump and lines inside the trunk.

well synolimit, we dont agree on anything anyways, so not a big deal

Not disagreeing just saying for others. $150 discounted or $296 online price. Everyone take your pic :tup:

Well I wouldn't be worried about diff oil on fire for how thick it is and not like engine oil, and the tail pipes aren't hot enough like a header is. Burns are a concern though. I can always do an enclosed box to catch spray.

I mean if guys running fuel cells with fuel hose in the back do that, I shouldn't be that worried about 75w90 diff oil that's not as volatile.

actually I would not run a fuel cell either unless its a dedicated track car with a fully enclosed system also. Would be a lot easier to fix the fuel starve with a simple bolt on fuel cell in the trunk but like I said, I just dont like the idea of having any type of fuel/oil/lines, etc as much as possible as my car is not a dedicated track car.

Dumb question possibly ?

Since I cooked my oil last time at the track, it pissed out the tube and I got blow back all over the car and Im sure some on the track. Do I still need a catch can just in case the fluid expands or overheats that much or will the diff cooler negate needing a catch can.

Also, what about heat bleed over from the exhaust. Im running test pipes and my exhaust is hot as #@!!. Should I think about wrapping the pipes ??

To each their own. Its been done enough I feel safe.

You boiled over your diff oil out the breather and onto the track? That sounds over filled to me.

For those that are going with the Tilton oil pump, watch out which one you are getting.
the cheapest one are designed for intermittent use ONLY
which are the 40-524 & 40-525.

IMO a thermal switch should be used with those 2 type if you want to be on the safe side
I went with the 40-527 and ofcourse that thermal switch even if its not required.

Edit, what a second, now the PDF file on all of them has changed! Wtf! Seems they redid the PDF file because everything was wrong, I hope. Now I guess you're right Megan. Weights are switched too.

524 is intermittent and 5.5lbs 1-2hr, 15 min cool down
525 is continuous and 3.5lbs 1000hr continuous

you might want to re-edit your post .,, the 525 is not continuous...

Cooler Pumps
Intermittent duty, Buna diaphragm
40-524
Intermittent duty, Viton diaphragm
40-525
Continuous duty, Buna diaphragm
40-527

http://tiltonracing.com/wp-content/u...oler-Pumps.pdf


edit; ... hehe no worries.. ;)

In regards to the overfill, It was a very reputable shop that did the work on the diff . I don't believe so (Sometimes **** happens)

It was probably 105 air temperature 125 degrees at track temperature along with my hot *** exhaust and me driving the crap out of the car. I posted a video of that track day. May be someone can enlighten me.

Anyway, I pulled off track and drove an hour and a half on a Saturday, they drained the fluid, added a 3 foot breather tube in case I cooked the oil, put in a different fluid and it seemed to work. Now that I have the time, I want to get all of my cooling issues in order so that I don't have to worry so much about the warmer days.

Also, from what I can remember, there are quite a few people that have boiled over their fluid while racing and had the same problem. The worst is the cleanup and even after driving it, you have to wait about 2 months for the stuff to burn off.