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Street/ Track Brake Pads

Originally Posted by GSS138 I hear lots of complaints about HPS's. For one they are noisy as hell on street. I just switched to endless mx72's and am loving them,

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Old 11-20-2013, 11:18 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by GSS138 View Post
I hear lots of complaints about HPS's. For one they are noisy as hell on street.

I just switched to endless mx72's and am loving them, but haven't had them long enough to comment other than so far fantastic.(but yeah very expensive)

I hear a lot of good things about Mu's.

Never hear anything bad about carbotechs.
You're thinking of HP+.

HPS's are silent, but have no business on the track after you've done your first day/learned how to carry any actual speed.

I have them on my DD and would never, ever want them on a car that I tracked if I could help it, the pedal feel is just awful.
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Old 11-21-2013, 08:43 PM   #17 (permalink)
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I have used Endless MX72 Pads for several track days and they have served me very well, very good pedal feel with no noticeable fade. Can do about 2 track weekends on one set if they start off new. Use them on the street as well, they do dust more but feel great. Only squeal occasionally once you get them up to track temp, never at low temps. Don't chew through rotors either. Endless also makes possibly the best brake fluid with a higher boiling point than motul. Also, have not had any issues with icemode running this material F/R with stock suspension. Endless also posts the effective operating temps for these on their site, for the MX72 it reports that friction varies from .37-.48 up to a top operating temp of 700 C (iirc).
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Old 11-21-2013, 08:48 PM   #18 (permalink)
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wow surprised u go through so many pads lol. 1 pair of pads last me almost a whole year, need to brake less LOL!!
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Old 11-21-2013, 08:56 PM   #19 (permalink)
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2 track weekends (4 track days, 4 sessions/day, 16 twentyish minute sessions total) on one set of pads is pretty good imho And even at that you've got to keep in mind your getting more heat transfer through the pads and into the fluid/caliper towards the end due to the decreasing thickness.

What kind of wear are others getting?


Edit: This is assuming 1/4 or more pad left at the end. Reasoning stated above. Also the second half of the pads wear slightly more quickly due to the amount of heat cycles the deeper pad material has already undergone.
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Old 11-21-2013, 09:23 PM   #20 (permalink)
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lol I got about 45 track days, time attacks and all, I only went through 2-3 sets of front pads and 2 rears. Still on stock rear rotor, and barely on 2nd set of front rotor!!
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Old 11-21-2013, 09:31 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Hmmm, I will take a look at those club racers for sure. Thing is, from people I've talked to at the track my pad wear is pretty standard for someone who uses their brakes aggressively, and (recent) historically I am one of the faster/est cars running street tires in the HPDE groups. I dunno /shrug.
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Old 11-21-2013, 11:22 PM   #22 (permalink)
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My YellowStuffs have 6 trackdays on them. That's 3, 30 minute sessions each day. And about 2,000 street miles on them. I'll be changing them out next spring. As the Z will sit for most of the winter.
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Old 11-22-2013, 12:30 AM   #23 (permalink)
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16 sessions for a set of pads seems a little bit much to me. Are you turning your rotors every time? If not you should. What kind of rotors are you using? Are you bedding them correctly? Just can't believe 16 sessions is the issue. Then again I will find out soon once I start using the MX72's lol.
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Old 11-22-2013, 12:44 AM   #24 (permalink)
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They get bedded in just fine on the first few warmup laps of the weekend. I think these 1st few laps are the perfect environment to do so. Once that is done a good layer of pad material will stay on the rotors the rest of the weekend until the weekend is over and the layer gets scrubbed off. I make sure to warm up my brakes gradually (avoiding threshold braking during this time) and also try my best to cool them a bit gradually as well. I use the new design slotted DBA 5000 series 2-piece rotors in the front and the 4000 series in the rear. I also have installed the stillen front brake ducting which seems to be effective and seems to have reduced heat stress cracking on the rotor surface; which is why I end up replacing my rotors once they get large enough to catch your thumbnail on. I have yet to groove or wear a set to death. Except perhaps the stock front rotors which I put a hurting on. Front end of the car actually scrapes the ground a bit under hard braking sometimes once the tires are warm; Ive put adhesive teflon furniture movers on the bottom of the leading edge to act as "sacrificial anodes", if you will, in response to that. Sorry if this has gotten a bit off topic, did my best to contribute meaningfully lol.

Why do you say I should turn my rotors every time, I am not getting uneven deposits, switching pad materials, nor warping them, I see no reason to turn them.
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Old 11-22-2013, 12:50 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSS138 View Post
16 sessions for a set of pads seems a little bit much to me. Are you turning your rotors every time? If not you should. What kind of rotors are you using? Are you bedding them correctly? Just can't believe 16 sessions is the issue. Then again I will find out soon once I start using the MX72's lol.
If you are talking to me. I got 18 sessions on my pads. And they need to be changed. My first 2 trackdays. I was learning the car and track. I was a bit easy on the brakes at first. I was getting back in to doing trackdays again. Switching from bike to car. I'm running the Racing Brake 2 piece rotors front and rear.
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Old 11-22-2013, 12:55 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Well just because you can't "see" anything wrong with them, doesn't mean they are perfectly flat. There's visual inspection, then there is .05 inches.

You may not need it every time, but prolly once a year I would think to make sure they are truly flat. I just see it as a possible source as to why you are burning pads so fast. I know what Endless pads cost.

I know some guys go the route of just buying cheap-o rotors and then basically throw them away instead of turn them. It is cheaper than buying 900.00 rotors, paying t0 turn them, then cracking them next weekend and having to buy new ones. They basically treat them like disposables.
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Old 11-22-2013, 02:07 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by GSS138 View Post
I know some guys go the route of just buying cheap-o rotors and then basically throw them away instead of turn them. It is cheaper than buying 900.00 rotors, paying t0 turn them, then cracking them next weekend and having to buy new ones. They basically treat them like disposables.
This is the best method if you can't afford to replace the rings regularly.

I have the 5000 series 2 piece on the front, and I'm really considering going to some AC Delcos or something once these need servicing. I just don't think the weight difference justifies paying 4-5 times as much.

Better to use them and lose them, imo.
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Old 11-22-2013, 02:17 PM   #28 (permalink)
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my friend used the dba5000 also, said the wear wasn't any different than stock, so i'm running stock rotors only on my 2nd pair upfront!!!
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Old 11-23-2013, 12:51 AM   #29 (permalink)
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Quote:
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I highly recommend staying away from hp+ for road coarse I fade those pads in 2 laps threw then away
You sure you're not thinking the HPS pads? It may have been my first road course event but the car was driven hard, and I didn't do so bad (instructor wanted to bump me up a group). I've also done two autox events on the same pads (which I know aren't as hard on the brakes, but still some abuse). They have a ton of life left from what I remember.
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Old 11-23-2013, 02:10 AM   #30 (permalink)
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