Street/ Track Brake Pads

RotanimoD

i hate my hps+, once it gets hot on the track, stopping power goes out the window

carbotech xp12front and xp10 rear are what im getting next

mmendez

Thanks guys, great info.

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2010 370Z NISMO #0273 Magnetic Black - Injen SP Series Intake - Stillen Exhaust - Test Pipes - Stillen Cross/Slotted Rotors - Window Tint - IMSA & Nismo Decals.

GSS138

Well to OP and anyone else, I just spent first weekend on Endless MX72's I did 2 full days(10 Sessions) on them at AAA speedway.

For reference AAA speedway is known as RMR(rich man's raceway) and is also considered the "car killer course" because it is extremely demanding on your tech. There are 3 straight aways that go from ~135+50mph 90/90 degree chicane, next is ~100-35mph hairpin, next is ~100-60 mph esses back to back to back.

That will heat your brakes up.

I can say I think I boiled my fuel a little bit on one session, but never felt any brake pad fade whatsoever. I lost a little bit of pedal which I think indicates boiling, but it returned by next session. But I never felt that "oh sh!t pads just turned into mashed potatoes feel".

They ran perfect for two days with no fade and they don't squeak at all on street. As far as dust goes IDK my wheels were dirty when I got there, but there is no reason in hell you would ever spend this type of money on street pads.

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Current Mods: Vorpal Weapon +5.

wstar

There's a lot of personal preference in brake stuff, too. Different driving styles = different heat profiles, different kinds of abuse, etc. Maybe even how you interpret bedding and swap instructions and how you do your maintenance.

But just to throw another track setup opinion in here, what I ended up settling on is Carbon-Lorraine's various RC5/6 compounds, which Essex imports/sells here: Essex - CL Brakes . I've used them in two configs: stock sport calipers RC6 front RC5+ rear, and APRacing's BBK with RC6-E in all 4 corners. They're really top notch track pads, and they wear slow and they don't destroy rotors. They even stop fine cold on the street, but they will make ugly noises that street users don't like. I like the pedal feedback, modulation, and performance even better than Carbotech, and I've had zero issues with tossing out junked rotors since I switched, too, but who knows what else besides pads contributed to fixing that. They don't require a real bedding process, either, which is a big win (even if you're swapping from other pads). They just self-bed as they go and it all works out. Properly doing a quick brake system warmup during your track warmup laps is always a good thing, though, and it's always good to properly break in new rotors in terms of heat cycle on the metal. The only downside is they're pretty expensive - but IMHO with the saved grief on brake issues and the long life of the pads, it's well worth it.

As others have said, there is no magical unicorn pad that's great on both street and track, though.

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Rusty

I ran Carbon-Lorraine pads on my track bikes and loved them. Now you got me thinking about them for the Nismo.

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GSS138

I want to add that I thought the MX 72 lacked a little "last split second bite" when you do that final "oomph" don't expect a lot of change in the characteristic. This caused me to almost go off and I killed a kitten(the kittens that live under cones). I dragged it through a sweeper then it landed offline and stayed there for the next 3 hours.

That being said, if you want to trail brake, this is a really good pad to do so. It is probably not a good Auto X pad because of that. It is not bitey at all, just very smooth and controllable. If you are trying to brake hard and deep, this is not the pad. If you want all day consistent performance on a road course, it is very very good.

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Current Mods: Vorpal Weapon +5.

PharmDZ

Err... Big difference there, are you talking about the HPS or the HP +? The HPS is more of a street pad and I've heard its no good on the track. The HP+ I've used work just fine.

AZP Installs

Over the course of 10 years instructing on track, we've found the HPS to be a beginner pad at best. Figure once you progress out of DE 1 or 2 you should be stepping up to a more track oriented pad. There are no silver bullets here in terms of street and track use, as others have said ideally swapping pads for the track the day before is probably your best bet. However that isn't always done as easily as folks think.

Hawk HP+ are great for street and auto-x and DE1,2 and into 3, lots of dust and squealing
Stoptech Street Performance are a higher temp pad than the HP+, squeal less and dust less
Carbo Loraine makes a pad (the exact model escapes me right now) that we've found to be a great street and track pad even up to the higher levels of DE.

Driving style and particular tracks will also effect your pad choices as well. A lot of it is trial and error unfortunately.

-mike

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wstar

Yeah, back on the CL RC pads subject, I edited out a short clip from two weeks ago to throw into this thread, highlighting just one braking zone where I nailed it pretty well (I'm not yet a pro-level driver, so those moments can be rare!).

If you watch the g-force cross on the bottom you can see where I managed to roll fast and smooth into the brake pedal right up to the ~1g limit on crappy street tires and then roll back out smoothly into a downshift + slight trail into the turn. There was no lockup or ABS engagement there and it was all over in the blink of an eye. These pads make that kind of work much easier

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