How to run 1/4 mile, First time

FPenvy

ok here's a few things. and most are aimed at the OP to help him and his AT run a good ET.

also some of these points may have been made but to be honest i didnt feel like reading every post. sooooo get over it.


1. you can go sub 2 second 60' on street tires.

here's a list of the top 1/4 mile ETs with street tires aside from #2 Z eliminator had drag radials.

MODIFIED - ALL MOTOR
1) jnaut ------------ 09 Base Sport 6MT 12.245 @ 111.81 mph 1.813 60ft street
2) Z eliminator ----- 09 Tour Sport 7AT 12.420 @ 114.37 mph 1.854 60ft DR
3) ts-c63 ----------- 12 Tour Sport 7AT 12.777 @ 108.23 mph 1.913 60ft street
4) secondnissan ----- 10 Tour ----- 7AT 12.856 @ 106.25 mph 1.944 60ft street
5) tranceformer ----- 09 Base Sport 6MT 12.860 @ 109.09 mph 1.921 60ft street
6) FPenvy ----------- 09 Tour Sport 7AT 12.899 @ 110.74 mph 1.950 60ft street


2. launching the 7AT does nothing from what i'm tested. anytime i've pre-loaded RPMs it just spins tire and costs you time. and thats with VDC off. there is really ZERO reason to do a 1/4 mile on a prepped track with it on. most times you'll get traction and the slightest slip with kick in VDC and bog the throttle to compensate. it's more effective to modulate the throttle slightly with your right foot to stay in the power and kill whatever spin you need to deal with.

3. the guy who said reaction time improves your ET someone please smack him.

4. please dont run a 1/4 in drive anyone the ECU for the tranny shifting is awful when going balls to the walls. put it in manual mode, do some runs, learn your car ,and hit those shift points hard. you and your ET times will thank me later.

5. street tires dont need burnouts. drag radials and slicks do. i mean have i done a burnout on street tires.....yes who haasnt. and yes i have done mini one here and there at the track to clean off any debris on bad days there. no full smoking pouring waste of my expensive street tires ones.

6. use the paddles. there is no difference in their shift times but its safer and less motion for your finger to pull that than the time it takes to move the stick. everyday driving i use the stick and racing applications i use paddles.

7. on the start you want to drop the hammer before the green pretty much you're going to want to hit it on the last yellow. also this is very dependant on where you stage. if you stage deep (far up) then it will take less distance to break the lasers. shallow would be the opposite obviously. soooo depending on how well you react and how your car gets off the line (all done with practice) then you will know where is the best place for you to stage based on your car and driving.

8. shedding weight is fine but i got a very fast 1/4 with full weight (minus cats), full tank of gas, and not a single thing removed from my car.

9. i've never changed my tire pressure once when i got the track. how i drove in is how i race and drove home. probably around 32psi on PSS's. never had any wheel hop ever. you people confuse me when you say how much wheel hop you get in many situations.

any more PM me

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324whp/258wtq AAM Tuned |F.I. NonRes CF CBE/NonRes TestPipes #373|UpRev Tuner|Akuma Motorsports Intakes|Z1 34 Row Oil Cooler

NissanGuy23

104.87-105.34 was my best. I was getting clutch slippage off the line and from 1-2 change, bogging down, wheel hop. Did 7 runs.

Z&I

Awesome !!!

What suspension mods have you done ... ?
Any specific information would be greatly appreciated.
Suspension know how is not my forte tho' I've tried my best to find out about it.
My Z is supercharged and I did go with the Mickey Thompsons after experiencing some vicious wheel hop with the Michelin PSII's.

I have put in camber arms at the rear and set the camber to zero so far at the advice of other members ...I am only interested in the 1/4 mile.

Feel free to steer me in the right direction if I post something that is not expressed correctly...I am here to learn as well as share.

Thanks,
Bob

xxAGAVExx

I'm no suspension guru, I'm learning everything as I go on this car (my first sports car). Anyways I have a lot of plans for this car and I'm just going about it little by little, getting all the basics locked down before I go FI. Right now I've just got swifts and some spl rear camber arms. I want to replace all the mushy stock bushings so I'm going to get some spl traction arms and their rear bushing set. I've got some whiteline diff bushings and I'll get them installed as soon as I get my quaife diff. This is everything I think you would need on the rear, the only other upgrade would be to get coilovers. U want to zero out your toe, and keep it that way. When your car squats down during launch, your toe comes in and you loose some traction causing wheel hop. All the suspension upgrades I mentioned help minimize this. Now u know as much as I do


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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l 09/6MT l BP Twin Turbo Kit l E-85 w/Fuel Return l FI 18" Res CF CBE l Powertrix Ultra-Lite Coilovers l Wavetrac LSD | Lots of SPL and Carbon Fiber |

FPenvy

for drag racing and if thats what u plan to use the car for ditch the OEM rear camber. get as close as you can to flat. that'll give you more traction. i DD mine as well as drag race so i leave mine OEM. still broke 13 seconds like that.

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324whp/258wtq AAM Tuned |F.I. NonRes CF CBE/NonRes TestPipes #373|UpRev Tuner|Akuma Motorsports Intakes|Z1 34 Row Oil Cooler

megalapagas

[IMG][/IMG]

So far that's my best time (#13 right side) on 20s Axis Wheels...its about 70-75F outside temp. Idk if this helps also but I'm running a New Set of NGK Iridium One Step Colder plugs...still a novice at the track and trying to beat that last yellow light.

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GTM 34 Row Oil Cooler | K&N Drop Ins w/ Z1's Post MAF Tubes | F.I Non-Res'd 2.5" T.P w/ CF CBE | Axis Wheels | Piecing together My Own Custom T4 Top Mount Single Turbo Kit *Still in the works* |

FPenvy

On the right.
Street tires (Michelin pss's)
Mods listed in sig
Capitol raceway in Maryland.
Followed this up with a 12.900 so it was not a fluke. Have that slip as well just no pic on this phone to load.

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324whp/258wtq AAM Tuned |F.I. NonRes CF CBE/NonRes TestPipes #373|UpRev Tuner|Akuma Motorsports Intakes|Z1 34 Row Oil Cooler

H2O_Doc

Who or what ran a 10.89????

FPenvy

Evo lol

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324whp/258wtq AAM Tuned |F.I. NonRes CF CBE/NonRes TestPipes #373|UpRev Tuner|Akuma Motorsports Intakes|Z1 34 Row Oil Cooler

H2O_Doc

Say it ain't so.

FPenvy

Oh it was so. That thing was a monster. All slicks and a mean sounding turbo.

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324whp/258wtq AAM Tuned |F.I. NonRes CF CBE/NonRes TestPipes #373|UpRev Tuner|Akuma Motorsports Intakes|Z1 34 Row Oil Cooler

Z&I

Thanks for the reply !!! Someone please get me some Band-Aids to help stop the bleeding !

I see where you are coming from ... I think you've listed all that you are NOT in agreement with ???

Re:

The list of sub 2.0's are the who's who of Z drivers !
And most are driving 7AT's...such as yourself...and not 6MT's
There is a reason why drag cars are automatics.

I didn't say that it was impossible to run 1.9's 60' times on street tires.
I was addressing the concerns of a new racer driving a 6MT...in a more or less stock car...
Just starting out the learning process of how the car works on the track.

I did mean to say (rather than imply), that 'around 2.0' would be more the norm to expect when you are just starting out with a 6MT at the track ... Probably should have been more specific realizing that this thread is inhabited by some serious racers ... such as yourself.

Hope that restates my post more clearly...

I arrive at the track with about 1/4 tank of gas as you do ... it does help with the traction ... I do, however, take out the spare tire and tools.
Some of the Top Z Drivers you listed also lighten their cars considerably.
Removing passenger seats and other excess weight including draining the Windshield Washer Fluid reservoir.
Their philosophy is that lighter is better...and evidently it pays off...and I do suspect that you don't get to achieve results like this without practice : practice : practice : and maybe a few other learned tricks as well.

The 1/4 tank of gas might also help with the wheel hop.
Consider yourself fortunate not to have experienced that awful situation.
I've had wheel hop with the Bridgestone Potenza's and the Michelin PSII's.
Gave up with the street tires and went with the M/T DRII's.
Problem solved.

Every situation is slightly different ... Track conditions, Temperatures, Drivng Skills, etc ... & Not every car is set up the same.
Open Forums such as this can be a learning experience for those listening in on the debates.

The debate about how the ET is determined is a good example ... someone learned somthing from that debate for sure.

I know I've learned a lot about my 'Z' as a result of participating in these Forums.

BTW ... Thanks for those who posted those Time Slips !!! AWESOME

Respectfully submitted,

Bob

Solomatrix

i've never done this before but wouldn't you just press the gas pedal and keep the steering wheel straight?

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Solomatrix

i.e. don't go in an angle like this?

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NissanGuy23

Thats what i did and i ran 13.9