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I thought I had read everything on this forum...glad I ran into this... Very helpful, and reassuring since I've been doing a lot of what y'all have already talked about. I wish we had more guys here doing this stuff.
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Thread necromancing comencing
I need to take a peep under the car to see if there is anyway we could relocate the upper control arm mounting point a tad higher but an easier way out may be a new upper arm? https://meganracing.com/mrs-ns-0420.html Adjust it longer so there isn't so much camber gain? I am not sure what length you would need to do that to actually effect change. I am strongly considering downsizing the rear brakes to run 15's and redo the suspension height and alignment. |
I'm kinda glad you brought this one back from the dead. I almost miss Andre. We've had a lot of trolls on this site, but he was the only one that was completely batshit insane.
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We have abandoned any suspension geometry changes since we have been able to 60’ 1.4 on the stock setup, while babying the stock axles. I think that next season we will be able to get into the 1.3s or 1.2s. Although some changes would still be nice for hooking up on street tires or while leaving the car slammed.
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Alternatively I have found that the R33 GTR 17x9's fit over the rear brakes, with 28x10.5 slicks on the 17's and the above suspension changes could I get in that ball park? (I got your S1.SE fuel system 2-3 weeks ago, getting ready to get all that in with the GTR twins ala Husam's kit, hoping for anything north of 580whp/480wtq in my climate on VP's X85) |
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http://www.the370z.com/track-autocro...ml#post2568224 I have not updated all my following posts, but I would ignore them. I tried to read all my old posts here and they were too embarrassing so I had to ignore them. This is a really old thread and we hadnt done much testing with different setups at the time. You should have no trouble with 1.8s with the setup you listed. 1.6s? Maybe... if you are bias-ply its probably possible. But running at stock height will be the game changer.. lowering the car effects its ability to hook up much more than I ever realized previously. We have found a night and day difference. Those GT-R turbos are going to spool hard and hit hard. Make sure to get a boost control system in place that can ramp the boost in. You can keep the instant spool sensation and let it hit a few psi right away but you dont want full boost until near redline. This boost control will help your project greatly in each department: traction, engine longevity, drivetrain component health. |
Thanks for the updated information. I'll give the 28x10.5 bias ply 17's a shot first with the raised height and alignment.
Wonder if a dynalite caliper can be packaged over the 11.5" rotor to fit a 15" wheel...... |
I was going to go to 15 inch in back. I'm guessing just change the caliber and rotors and the 15 inch wheels will fit?
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I run 15's |
I contacted TCE brakes about a wilwood adapter and it's not possible as a bolt on affair. So oem brakes it is.
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Digging up this old thread for reading. Good stuff in here.
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Phunk is dead on. When my car hooks it is fun as hell. Spinning is not much fun. When JCHammond got out of my car he was feeling his face with all of his fingers. LMAO, He felt it pull so hard it messed with his face. Instant wrinkle removal facial. I was supposed to go down and give my best friend a ride tomorrow. It's just too cold. He won't get the full experience so I am not going.
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Will 17in Weld wheels fit with the Akebono rear brakes?
Got it figured out, nevermind. |
Man I just watched Adam LZ blow another motor.. That's not what got me. He did a 1.58 60ft on 18" radials. Prior to that he hit 11.7 at 126 rolling out of the box.
I'm off the fence. Earlier I ordered a set of 17" Welds. I'm definitely running a 10 second 1/4 in 2020. I dont care if it's a 10.9 I'm running 10s. Wheels ship in January so I'll most likely hit it in February and hopefully make another run at the half mile with traction control off this time. |
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