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DRAG WHEEL/Tire setups

Originally Posted by Z eliminator It looks like the oil pump failed. It was turning 8100 when it let go. No parts came out or the engine. Something broke in

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Old 11-25-2013, 01:31 PM   #61 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Z eliminator View Post
It looks like the oil pump failed. It was turning 8100 when it let go.
No parts came out or the engine. Something broke in the drivers side cam gears.
I drove it and it stopped 60 km from home , I had it towed .
GTM will have my 4.2 finished before Christmas with a stage 3 SC.
All the toys including cams will be in this motor.
Oh yes lets not forget the meth.

Z
yikes ... ! ... how'd u manage 8100 rpm ?
Keep me posted as the the progress with the 4.2L ...
I am considering this as well when it's time to do the internals.
Not a fan of the meth tho'
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Old 11-25-2013, 01:55 PM   #62 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by GSS138 View Post
Nice thread guys we need more drag racer threads. I only road race, but come on let's face it road racing is just drag racing from corner to corner .
Actually it is very different ... gotta try it !
You will get to know your car better and improve your skills.
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Old 11-25-2013, 02:27 PM   #63 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by andre12031948 View Post
Wait till early next spring(new radials may come out) go to a site like JEGS. Check out street/drag radials from M/T, Nitto, & Hoosier & anyone else that may offer something by spring.
Also find 2 wheels, only two in the 17"-18" size by apx. 10" wide. You can race with spacers in the front. As far as the rear, Jegs can help you get the right offset/size to fit your car, w spacers or without. Weld wheels was my choice for the slicks, but they Jegs can help you.

Get a good rear set up that can be put on your car hours/days before you go to the track. On that day JUST drive to the track with those tires/wheels on, & the stock setup in the front. If you can get a front brake lock-up system or I think you can just remove the rear brake fuse??/ then all you'll do is drive to the track, have a cup of coffee, pull into the water box first, lock front brakes & smoke the rear tires till a bunch white smoke appears in your side & back mirrors. The starter will also wave you to go forward to the starting line. Part of their job is to tell you when your ready. Lift the clutch & floor the gas at apx. 4,500 to 5,000 something rpm. Experiment. You should be able to do 1.5 to 1.7's 60' times & very good 1/4 ET's.

Not much to do at the track & do great times & have fun. Good luck. Also it sounds like you have a very nice setup....

I did that when I stated with my 08 z. If you go to dragtimes.com, browse, hit Nissan 350z. I'm on the first page(bottom) Someone made a video of my run with the exact set up I just mentioned. I didn't even hear of forums then. Soon I was told that the run 12.9 put me in the # one spot of 350z.com. I didn't know or care at that time. Had stock wheels/tires in the front....
Hey Andre ...
yep ... I'm a older guy ... LOL ... might have a year on you !
Thanks for your posts...
Did try to view your video on Dragtimes but couldn't find it ... is it still there?

In the meantime, I have been busy:

Already had the M/T DR II's on order (before reading your post) - they are now on the car and they do make a difference.

Fitted OK even with the 20mm spacers ... enough clearance but they do stick out beyond the fender...looks kinda mean.

Did go with the GTM Race Logic traction control - that's also installed but GTM didn't send the instructional CD with the package so I don't have the Launch Control set up.
Was able to figure out the basic settings and did a few preliminary tests.
Race Logic does work well and is a whole bunch better than the VDC.

Need to read the instructions once the CD gets here - and a little more time to get it dialed in tho' before taking it to the track.

Weather was not good this weekend so hopefully it will be better next weekend.

Will let you know how things go - it definitely hooks up better - but you still need skills to get it right.

Bob
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Old 12-01-2013, 06:12 AM   #64 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Z&I View Post
Thanks for the Heads Up ...
Gleaning from the wealth of info on this thread - I might be able to do a good burn out by removing the Rear Brake Fuse ...
Hit the Gas, Pop the Clutch, and very quickly Left Foot the Brake ?

Now all I gotta do is learn about the suspension - digest it all - and apply it properly at the track!

Is your car K51 Liquid Platinum or Silver .. ?
Mine is the Liquid Platinum ... will have to post a pic of it sometime

BTW 12.343 @ 114.14 ---- and (gulp) what broke ?

Bob
Z&I...You are correct by removing the Rear Brake Fuse you will temporarily disable the ABLS and then you will be able to properly do a standing burnout at the burnout box before you line up.

On a Side Note...FINALLY!!! A solid group of Drag Racing enthusiasts on this forum. For the past couple of years its been so hard to get some good info....Like all of you have traction issues...NA at the moment...Can't break 2.0 60 ft at the time....Need Drag Slicks...Thinkin of going Mickey Thompson Et street 2 305/35 -19 on the back, but need confirmation that the diameter size will be ok....Can anyone confirm if these will fit on stock height no spacers?
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Old 12-01-2013, 11:01 AM   #65 (permalink)
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GTM traction control did not work for at the track.
I have a 7 AT.
car ran quicker with out it.
i may not have set it up correctly.

Up date

Big power for my car is coming from GTM.
Big $$$$$.$$

305 35 18 's MT drag tires may be too small.

target is for the 10's

Z
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Last edited by Z eliminator; 12-01-2013 at 11:04 AM.
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Old 12-01-2013, 07:23 PM   #66 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Z eliminator View Post
GTM traction control did not work for at the track.
I have a 7 AT.
car ran quicker with out it.
i may not have set it up correctly.

Up date

Big power for my car is coming from GTM.
Big $$$$$.$$

305 35 18 's MT drag tires may be too small.

target is for the 10's

Z
Thanks for the $$$$$$ update !

Weather held up today ... Track temp in the '40's.

Ran 12.407 @ 116.31 - still with a 2.004 60' time tho.

Tried a few different settings with the GTM Race Logic ...
It did help to keep the car planted with the 2nd gear shift ...not too sure how much it helped in 1st off the line.
Too early to tell ... gotta think through todays runs.

The tires were cold ... with the Race Logic it is more difficult to do a proper burn out...need to look in to that and figure out what to do too.

It might be also the clutch that is a weak link now...encountered some slip'n and smellin'.

oh - no back in to the shop again !

gittin' in the 10's is also my goal as well ... but first the 11's ... & got to get a deeper wallet too...

Bob
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Old 12-01-2013, 10:05 PM   #67 (permalink)
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The launch control will work with the 6 MT.
What mods are on your car.
Great time.
Pm your phone # and i will give you my tire set up for air pressure and launching the car.
my 60 fts are 1.80
There is no disk for the launch control as far as i know. Did you get the GTM manual for the TC.

Z
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Old 12-02-2013, 03:34 PM   #68 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Z eliminator View Post
The launch control will work with the 6 MT.
What mods are on your car.
Great time.
Pm your phone # and i will give you my tire set up for air pressure and launching the car.
my 60 fts are 1.80
There is no disk for the launch control as far as i know. Did you get the GTM manual for the TC.

Z
Thanks,

Will PM you later tonight when I get home...all help welcome!

I did go to the track with a plan in mind - dial in the Race Logic and fiddle with the air pressure.
Wanted to do a pass with it all turned off as a control run but didn't get the chance.
The Race Logic helped with the wheel hop and allowed a much better shift and go in 2nd.
Disappointed with the 2.0 60' time tho ... took it for granted that it would give me better than 2.0 but it didn't.

Still might have been the cold tires and the clutch has been starting to slip as of late.
(couldn't find the rear brake fuse that has been mentioned)

Back to the drawing board ! try try again

The Z mods:
Stillen SC'r with a little over 8 lbs. Boost
PPI Long Tube Headers - Cat Delete
HKS Ti Exhaust
ACT clutch
Quaife LSD
Custom Tune

GTM Racelogic

Here is the link to the manufactrers site and Instructions ...
Since the product is continually being updated there is no CD...nor did it arrive with any kind of installation/operating instructions.

Traction Control

Look on the 1st Page for 'Digital Adjuster Manual'
(it's right under the Race Logic Traction Control face type)

And away we go !

Bob
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Old 12-02-2013, 03:52 PM   #69 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by BOLIO 671 View Post
Z&I...You are correct by removing the Rear Brake Fuse you will temporarily disable the ABLS and then you will be able to properly do a standing burnout at the burnout box before you line up.

On a Side Note...FINALLY!!! A solid group of Drag Racing enthusiasts on this forum. For the past couple of years its been so hard to get some good info....Like all of you have traction issues...NA at the moment...Can't break 2.0 60 ft at the time....Need Drag Slicks...Thinkin of going Mickey Thompson Et street 2 305/35 -19 on the back, but need confirmation that the diameter size will be ok....Can anyone confirm if these will fit on stock height no spacers?
Yep !
They Fit !!
Even with the 20mm spacers ... just put them on the car a few days ago.
They do stick out from fenders a few mm's but they do look mean.
Haven't had them bottom out either but I drive on flat roads.
Just ran a 12.4 @ 116 on cold tires in 45 degree track temp ... no burn out...

Now where did you say that Rear Brake Fuse is located ? (OK to PM me)
Couldn't find it in the Battery Compartment or the drivers side fuse box.
Would like to heat up the tires next time out !

Thanks,
Bob
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Old 12-03-2013, 09:21 AM   #70 (permalink)
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Thanks Bob...

In regards to the fuse...You wanna pull the fuse labeled "brake" found in the drivers footwell, there is a kickpanel there. Remember, don't drive around like this, your brake lights will not work.....It's ok for drag racing, but I wouldn't use it for drifting or slalom events as you need your brake lights to help warn other driver's behind you...and don't forget to pop that fuse back in when you're leaving the track or done drag racing...

I believe that there is a program out there that can make things more convenient and not compromise your brake lights going out but I can't recall which program it was....Not sure if its a pre-tune from UpRev...I read it somewhere on the forum awhile back...
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Old 12-03-2013, 12:52 PM   #71 (permalink)
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Thanks Bob...

In regards to the fuse...You wanna pull the fuse labeled "brake" found in the drivers footwell, there is a kickpanel there. Remember, don't drive around like this, your brake lights will not work.....It's ok for drag racing, but I wouldn't use it for drifting or slalom events as you need your brake lights to help warn other driver's behind you...and don't forget to pop that fuse back in when you're leaving the track or done drag racing...

I believe that there is a program out there that can make things more convenient and not compromise your brake lights going out but I can't recall which program it was....Not sure if its a pre-tune from UpRev...I read it somewhere on the forum awhile back...
Thanks Bolio... for the info and Heads Up !

Will look again ... had the drivers side panel cover removed and was looking at the back of it to see what fuses were labeled ...
Probably looking too hard for REAR BRAKE and missed it.

I only plan to drag race ... If I can't find that program you referred to I will try to figure a way to intercept/disable the fuse with a safety/covered toggle switch - EZ on EZ off.

Bob
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Old 12-16-2013, 10:04 AM   #72 (permalink)
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i disable the brake switch by installing a toggle switch and wire to a brake sensor behind the brake pedal. ( thanks to sharpbycooper ) This would be the best idea so you can turn on and off immediately rather than fiddling under the car or pop the hood to turn it back on

Also as for drag wheels, smallest i can go is 18'' wheel due to brake clearance and i got bf Goodrich DR tire. Haven't tried that yet but once the track opens at atco then i'll see

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Old 12-24-2013, 10:54 AM   #73 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Z eliminator View Post
It looks like the oil pump failed. It was turning 8100 when it let go.
No parts came out or the engine. Something broke in the drivers side cam gears.
I drove it and it stopped 60 km from home , I had it towed .
GTM will have my 4.2 finished before Christmas with a stage 3 SC.
All the toys including cams will be in this motor.
Oh yes lets not forget the meth.

Z
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Old 06-16-2015, 02:51 AM   #74 (permalink)
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Enjoy'd reading through all of the reply's.....i'm an old school drag-racer & am working on mine now...currently stock with only the drop in K&N filters.
i got lot's of ideas-but for sure//get rid of the negative camber in back...a tad positive wouldn't hurt any....not sure what rear gear you running-but 125 trap speed is very impressive...don't let this thread end,,,i will follow up.
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Old 08-15-2015, 05:14 AM   #75 (permalink)
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Default DRAG WHEEL/Tire setups

No new posts...getting ready to go racing soon,,,gotta break in the 12's (with paper ,stock air filter) so i will be bone stock-but will let my 125lb. daughter drive....guaranteed 12's
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