Okay sure brakes overheat oil gets warm and it fuel starves. Dyno result
 

Despite all the problems, 28k mile later. The engine is still making the power that it advertised. It dyno 280rwhp on first run, got 1 hp less on the two pulls after due to knock detection

Is that totally stock?

Yes except for the 25 row oil cooler on 91 gas. It definitely detonated on the run , will post pic tonight

Fing CA and it's 91 gas. I have been adding the lucas octane booster. Most people just laugh at me for doing so. And to be honest IDK if it works or not. Motul also has a product, but a lot of people claim all of those additives are snakeoil. Would be interested in any feedback on them.

Its snake oil. You want Torco or toluene. That actually works.

These don't work...

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=zKxJfXfD6mg

So the Motul is no go or you don't know? I have a hard time believing they would sell snakeoil, the stuff is very expensive, as I would figure the Torco product probably is as well.

Not sure. But yeah Torco and Toluene work, Torco is expensive, and you can't buy Toluene in CA anymore

Please post dyno and correction factor if its not on the sheet. Its a tad high for OEM and 91 octane.

I'll guess the Motul is the real deal as well, since they are direct competitors with Torco etc. They couldn't risk their name by putting some crap out. It's Very expensive though. At the track I usually just top off with 100 octane once I get there-but it's like 8.00 per gallon. The motul product is like 20+ bucks for a little can of it.

Torco Is $20 a can and will raise a full tank to well over 93 octane if you're starting at 91. The stuff works.

Good stuff! SAE and all, nice. Jealous.

And no your car didn't knock! They all do it. I data logged on my last dyno and timing and everything was beyond perfect. Only the AFR was off and it was rich, just like I can see yours is. You cant knock being rich and only running OEM timing like me which was 23-24 across the entire rpm range. Also if you knocked the line after the dip would be much lower. If you removed the dip the line would look like nothing happened. That doesn't happen with knock. My tuner knows what it is but for the life of me I can't remember what he said. Only odd thing for me is my first dyno runs didn't have the dips like yours and my new ones do.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psadea1f77.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps808a7ac8.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps405a3b6e.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps3a0e9af1.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psbce41cbd.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psca2bcfb5.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psced02dd1.jpg

I'm not into dyno sheets but I like these
 

I didn't read half the posts but I like to see H.P curves that make sense.
These show H.P. curves that have steady rise in H.P that goes all the way up to 7500 rpm + & has some flattening/lasting at high rpm.

When I see highest H.P in the area of 6000 rpm then a sharp fall AND the owner comments how happy he is with his tuner, I laugh.....

No need to explain, cause if you don't get it, then like I said, no need to explain that to you....

Good catch about the dip. Is it something with the variable valves?