Opinions on Alginment specs

Rusty

Ok, I got all of my SPL parts installed. Now for an alignment tomorrow. The Nismo is used for both track and street. So I have to come up with something to fit both. Thinking of camber set at 1.5 deg neg. caster set at 6 deg neg. and toe would be at min in spec.
Opinions please.

__________________

浪人 - 殺し屋
"The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only"
http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

clintfocus

I wouldnt run less then -2 up front even for a daily driven track day fun Z, if you run zero toe the inside wear will be minimal to none existant. Rear i wouldnt run anything more then -2, ideally between -1.75 and -1.5 since the rear camber curve under compression on the 370 is very aggressive. Btw though, what does the rest of your suspension setup look like?

(Awaits Synolimit to tell me im wrong )

Rusty

LMAO!!!!

The Nismo is on stock coilovers for now. That's later. Hotchkis sway bars front and rear. Rear set on softest. Stock ride height. Full SPL parts up front. Control arms, and lower bearings.

So you're saying -2 camber, zero toe, and my caster at -6 would be about right? The rear, I'm not touching. I know how aggressive the camber is back there.

__________________

浪人 - 殺し屋
"The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only"
http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

clintfocus

yes for the front that would be good. In the rear set the toe at zero also, ive experimented in the past with slight toe in for high speed sweeper stability, but the rear suspension toe's in under compression as well, so when i tried zero out back it was still fine in the sweepers but had slightly less understeer in the slower corners. Also the factory rear camber setting i think it around -2, if you can get less then that while still getting the correct toe setting, do it.

Rusty

Forgot about the tires and rims. Fronts are Mich PSS 275/35-19 on a 19x9.5.
The rears are Mich PSS 325/30-19 on 19x12.

I thought you needed a little toe in for the rear, because of snap over steer.

In the spring, I'm planning on doing the whole SPL parts in the rear. So, I'll take care of the rear then.

__________________

浪人 - 殺し屋
"The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only"
http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

clintfocus

i noticed you have staggered sizes from your signiture, hence why i havent told you do ditch that rear hotchkis bar yet lol, day you go square, get rid of that thing!

early in tracking my 370 i played it safe too with the mild toe in, but like i said, dynamically when the rear suspension compresses, it gain's toe in, ive been running on zero rear for a while now and its not by anymeans loose and i run 285 square

phunk

My daily driver... I am at about -2.2 in the front and it ruined my Yoko ad08 in about 1000-1500 miles with inside feathering. Toe is on the straighter end of spec. Checked alignment twice. Flipped the tires over, and it did it again. Having never had such a problem like that with my 350 or other tires on the 370, I am left with a lesson that some tire designs cannot handle camber with mileage? I'm not sure what else to think of it. But by 2000 miles the car was unbearable to drive, literally sounded like an off-road truck going down the highway.

When I flipped the tires over for round 2, I even replaced the wheel bearings. Examined ball joints and tie rod ends for any play, found nothing. Only thing I didn't check was the control arm bushings. After both sides of the tires were ruined, I installed some used Toyos off a friends 350z... So far no feathering.

__________________

clintfocus

Yeah might be a tire specific thing, cause I DD on -3.2 up front and drive a lot with my 370 and my wear isn't that fast wearing. I've never been a ad08 fan for a lot of reasons. Now I got another one lol.

synolimit

Horrible advice! Listen to me only.

No. That's fine for these cars. Better than the +0.1 to -1.4 front, -1.2 to -2.2 rear OEM settings. Soon as everything gets here I plan on -2.5 front and -1.5 rear. If you can swing it, I'd do different settings for the track though. I'd find a way to mark the SPL settings where the more aggressive settings would be or at least count each turn of each adjuster and write it down. That way with SPL being so easy to adjust you show up to the track, spin a few turns here and there and get aggressive.

__________________
13 370z-

Rusty

Nice idea, but the problem with that is. When you change camber settings. Toe also changes. You are moving the arms in for more neg. camber, which means you get more toe in. So you would also have to change the toe.

__________________

浪人 - 殺し屋
"The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only"
http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

synolimit

O I know. Have to write down everything and get a nice plan together what to attack first and how, then move to toe so you have a nice sequence of events to get to your track numbers. You could also spend $200 on this I just saw someone post.

Quicktrick Alignment | DIY Alignment, wheel alignment, toe align

There'd be no guessing. Just attach to wheel and done.

__________________
13 370z-

Rusty

Ok, got the Nismo aligned today. The front for both sides is camber -2, caster is 6, toe is zero. The rear both sides. Camber -1.7, toe is zero. It's raining now. So I can't really try it out. After today. I can't do anything for 4 to 6 weeks. Having surgery on my foot tomorrow.

Thanks' for all of the input guys.

__________________

浪人 - 殺し屋
"The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only"
http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

phunk

Do you track racers actually like how much compression camber is in the rear, or do you find it excessive? I haven't researched setting up alignment for that application. I find it far too aggressive for anything as far as street and putting down the power... But I could only hope that Nissan at least had a good reason for doing it, perhaps for you guys? It is of course further exaggerated when you start with the control arm angles of a lowered car.

Is it too much for everyone, or is it beneficial for those of you on road course and auto x?

__________________

clintfocus

If the rear suspension can be setup correctly with a very mild amount of static negative camber, then they get off corners well while still being at a ideal contact patch midcorner. Hence why I recommend nothing over -2 in back and thats on the upper end. -1.5 to -1.75 really helps the car to come off slow corners well and still not roll onto its outside edge in sweepers

phunk

I have been playing with the rear suspension in CAD... Once my Z is down for the winter, I have intentions of playing with some brackets to change my rear control arm angles to reduce compression camber. I wasnt sure if it would be of any benefit to the track racers or just drag racing / street guys. Once I have it on jackstands for the season, I can take the rear springs out and play with different pivot locations and watch the compression specs

__________________