Opinions on Alginment specs

Rusty

Ok, I got all of my SPL parts installed. Now for an alignment tomorrow. The Nismo is used for both track and street. So I have to come up with something to fit both. Thinking of camber set at 1.5 deg neg. caster set at 6 deg neg. and toe would be at min in spec.
Opinions please.

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clintfocus

I wouldnt run less then -2 up front even for a daily driven track day fun Z, if you run zero toe the inside wear will be minimal to none existant. Rear i wouldnt run anything more then -2, ideally between -1.75 and -1.5 since the rear camber curve under compression on the 370 is very aggressive. Btw though, what does the rest of your suspension setup look like?

(Awaits Synolimit to tell me im wrong )

Rusty

LMAO!!!!

The Nismo is on stock coilovers for now. That's later. Hotchkis sway bars front and rear. Rear set on softest. Stock ride height. Full SPL parts up front. Control arms, and lower bearings.

So you're saying -2 camber, zero toe, and my caster at -6 would be about right? The rear, I'm not touching. I know how aggressive the camber is back there.

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clintfocus

yes for the front that would be good. In the rear set the toe at zero also, ive experimented in the past with slight toe in for high speed sweeper stability, but the rear suspension toe's in under compression as well, so when i tried zero out back it was still fine in the sweepers but had slightly less understeer in the slower corners. Also the factory rear camber setting i think it around -2, if you can get less then that while still getting the correct toe setting, do it.

Rusty

Forgot about the tires and rims. Fronts are Mich PSS 275/35-19 on a 19x9.5.
The rears are Mich PSS 325/30-19 on 19x12.

I thought you needed a little toe in for the rear, because of snap over steer.

In the spring, I'm planning on doing the whole SPL parts in the rear. So, I'll take care of the rear then.

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clintfocus

i noticed you have staggered sizes from your signiture, hence why i havent told you do ditch that rear hotchkis bar yet lol, day you go square, get rid of that thing!

early in tracking my 370 i played it safe too with the mild toe in, but like i said, dynamically when the rear suspension compresses, it gain's toe in, ive been running on zero rear for a while now and its not by anymeans loose and i run 285 square

Rusty

Thanks Clint!

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phunk

Do you track racers actually like how much compression camber is in the rear, or do you find it excessive? I haven't researched setting up alignment for that application. I find it far too aggressive for anything as far as street and putting down the power... But I could only hope that Nissan at least had a good reason for doing it, perhaps for you guys? It is of course further exaggerated when you start with the control arm angles of a lowered car.

Is it too much for everyone, or is it beneficial for those of you on road course and auto x?

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phunk

My daily driver... I am at about -2.2 in the front and it ruined my Yoko ad08 in about 1000-1500 miles with inside feathering. Toe is on the straighter end of spec. Checked alignment twice. Flipped the tires over, and it did it again. Having never had such a problem like that with my 350 or other tires on the 370, I am left with a lesson that some tire designs cannot handle camber with mileage? I'm not sure what else to think of it. But by 2000 miles the car was unbearable to drive, literally sounded like an off-road truck going down the highway.

When I flipped the tires over for round 2, I even replaced the wheel bearings. Examined ball joints and tie rod ends for any play, found nothing. Only thing I didn't check was the control arm bushings. After both sides of the tires were ruined, I installed some used Toyos off a friends 350z... So far no feathering.

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synolimit

Horrible advice! Listen to me only.

No. That's fine for these cars. Better than the +0.1 to -1.4 front, -1.2 to -2.2 rear OEM settings. Soon as everything gets here I plan on -2.5 front and -1.5 rear. If you can swing it, I'd do different settings for the track though. I'd find a way to mark the SPL settings where the more aggressive settings would be or at least count each turn of each adjuster and write it down. That way with SPL being so easy to adjust you show up to the track, spin a few turns here and there and get aggressive.

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Rusty

Nice idea, but the problem with that is. When you change camber settings. Toe also changes. You are moving the arms in for more neg. camber, which means you get more toe in. So you would also have to change the toe.

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clintfocus

Yeah might be a tire specific thing, cause I DD on -3.2 up front and drive a lot with my 370 and my wear isn't that fast wearing. I've never been a ad08 fan for a lot of reasons. Now I got another one lol.

martin82

I daily my racecar LOL,

As Clint Said, I would go more camber up front closer to -2.5 or -3 it will make a HUGE difference up front, rear just keep it at under -2

I run -3 up front and -2.5 in rear 0 toe all around, I dont get weird tire wear except for on the track obviously outer tire section always wears out more...

clintfocus

If the rear suspension can be setup correctly with a very mild amount of static negative camber, then they get off corners well while still being at a ideal contact patch midcorner. Hence why I recommend nothing over -2 in back and thats on the upper end. -1.5 to -1.75 really helps the car to come off slow corners well and still not roll onto its outside edge in sweepers

clintfocus

God dammit martin, run less rear negative