The only purpose a sway bar on a car that it used strictly for track is for fine tuning. If you spring rates are set up correctly you should not
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05-11-2014, 01:05 PM | #151 (permalink) |
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The only purpose a sway bar on a car that it used strictly for track is for fine tuning.
If you spring rates are set up correctly you should not even need a sway bar. But no track is the same and conditions change as the day goes on. I have seen many a cars disconnect the rear sway bar because the car felt better and went faster on a particular track and day. The manufacture puts sway bars to improve handling with out sacrificing ride. |
05-11-2014, 08:09 PM | #155 (permalink) |
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25K spring is about right up front with no bar....I see no issue with it assuming you have good shocks that are valved for it. I run 1000-1200lb front springs with a bar on my car now...
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05-11-2014, 08:15 PM | #156 (permalink) |
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I just saw a bunch of posts about taking out the rear sway. I dont think I would take the front one out ever. The rear is my question. Im on coils but I think the spring rate is 12 or 14 in the back.
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05-11-2014, 10:00 PM | #158 (permalink) |
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So what do you recommend for spring rates and would you recommend no sway in the back. I would lile to put a whiteline up front.
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05-13-2014, 07:29 PM | #160 (permalink) |
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As long as you guys are way off track talking about spring rates like you know something (and I don't!). Not trying to hyper-optimize, but give me a general ballpark answer here...
On my 370, I'm currently running JRZ's low-end dampers with some fairly soft springs that were packaged with them at 650 and 500. It doesn't feel as stiff as it could, but with these dampers it's not that bad. I've got Hotchkis swaybars on (the front is among the thickest commercial ones available), with their rear set to full-soft. I've done a lot of experimenting with that rear sway setting over the past year and I know it's still too much rear sway. The only time I've ever had success with the car feeling better with a stiffer rear setting was when I was suffering from a lack of front camber and I was stiffening up the rear sway as a bandaid, trying to force the rear to lose traction as fast as the front to balance out the car and prevent understeer. I'm on RS3 tires currently and the setup works ok, I can drive it. I think what I'd like to do, even on the current tires, is dump the rear swaybar, and then maybe up the rear spring rate to compensate a bit. It could probably use more spring rate all around in general on top of that. Then there's the fact that I'm going to start experimenting with switching from my RS3 to some real slicks a few months down the road, and I've heard you generally up spring rates with that change as well (although on the flipside, I don't want them so hard that I can't get traction in the wet with rain tires either). So... from the 650/500 setup I'm on now, any thoughts on (a) what numbers to move those to now, on the RS3's, while killing the rear sway and gaining some overall springrate, and (b) would your answer be different moving up to slicks (and I guess (c) is it possible to have a spring setup that's good for slicks and wets without swapping springs?). |
05-14-2014, 08:57 AM | #163 (permalink) |
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No aero yet, not planning on it for a little while. (And no, unfortunately I tossed my OEM rear sway ages ago, before I realized it might be nice to try it with the Hotchkis front!).
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05-14-2014, 09:00 AM | #164 (permalink) |
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You want one? I've got one taking up space in my shed. I'm local and you can have it for $25 or a bottle of bourbon.
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