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Who the **** here had a Z gutted, track prepping, custom brake duct lines, cut a OEM hood up, LTH, custom CBE, custom diff cooler etc etc, all within the first 5 months of ownership??! I bet almost 100% of you didn't! Rome wasn't built in a ******* day and my track car won't be either so relax. And yeah it's leased. $400 a month now and after I buy it unless they drop my residual since the 14 residuals will be a couple grand cheaper around the same turn in time. Better than $657 a month limiting me on buying parts monthly. Yeah in the end of payments ill end up spending about 2k more but 2k over all that time is nothing when I'm saving $257 a month in the now. |
Just my 2 cents,
If you track the car sways bars should be adjustable, bottom line. The sway bar is a fine tuning device, everyone's car is set up differently in the respect that not everyone runs the same springs rates, shocks, ride height, alignment and weight jack. Tire compound, and even track temp has a play in all this too. Not to mention driver preference And or A$$ feel when driving |
In answering Clintfocus's question I believe he went with a special sway bar up front. It was possibly a Whiteline but he had spec'd out a different one that was the thickest and stiffest one possible.
It was pretty much an identical install as the one seen in Motoiq but with a few more tweaks. At the end of the day, it works for me. I try and surround myself with good installers and people that know there stuff. I am happy with my setup and its what I could afford. Its like evrything off the internet . Do your research and try and make a good honest decision. Just because you read it doesnt mean its the truth. Call people up, talk to them, get a good feel for them. Ive tracked the car about 6 times since the install. I couldn't be anymore happy with the setup. |
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You don't have to have a full custom gutted car to get on the track or race. My Nismo has a ton of track days on her, and all done in stock trim (plus big oil cooler) in her first 7500 miles of her life. So man up, head to the track, and get an education out there. You'll find people will start to give you less cr@p when your out there actually doing something more then playing forum racer. For my reason behind my question why do I think I need sway bars. I'm looking for the car to stay flatter in the corners, and to push less in the front. For the time being I'm running V710's 275/40 in the front and 295/40 in the rear. I've been eyeing bars for a long while now, but wanted to wait till my race season was over and start fresh when a new setup next year in a new class. I ran street tires (Nitto Invo's 265/30 and 305/30) in a race tire class till the last couple races when I got my hands on the V710's to finish out the season. I came in 4th over all, and missed 3rd place by one point in championship, under a Sti, and two corvettes. It seems like every bar that is out there is different, and everyone seems to be running something a little different. With help from a few of you on here, and your inputs, it gives me a good base where to start. I might need to buy a couple sets of bars, but the truth of what works for me will be found out on the skid pad. Here is a fun stock trim track pic of my Nismo. http://i611.photobucket.com/albums/t...ps641210af.jpg This is of course a picture of a picture. I don't have any digital copies of the original, and I wasn't driving the car in this pic. |
Wow that's a lot of air
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It was coming off on all fours but it was hard to capture that with the camera, and that was the best picture out of the bunch
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99.999% agree with Clintfocus, and whoever doesn't believe all his testing u should :gtfo2: ROFL
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but my sway bar setup has since changed since the articles suspension install, like i said earlier in the thread im on the Hotchkis front bar, and a G37S coupe OE rear bar which is 2mm's thicker then the OE 370 bar but same wall thickness, so really just a touch stiffer then stock. Also im on the off the shelf KW V3 spring rates and valving. this setup thus far compliments the square 285/10.5 sizes and the V3s spring rates well |
Would the Hotchkiss rear on full soft be comparable to OE G bar Clint or way different? Reason I ask is because don't you have to buy the front and rear Hotchkiss at the same time?
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From the advice that I have given in this section, I am running a whiteline set to full stiff up front but still have the stock rear. I am running 275 front and 295 rear and run in ASP for SCCCA. I am still getting the feel for it on autox but on the track I love it. Drove a friends stock sport for a few laps on Sunday and it was a night a day difference compared to my car. I still push a bit during Autox but I am staggered so I am not surprised. A little power and it clears it right up.
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And thanks, didn't know what I needed to do for a track day. Unlike you though I have enough intelligence before I get on the track to read other peoples issues with this particular car and correct them before hand. Hence the suspension upgrades, tires, oil cooler, diff cooler, racing seat, roll cage, brake duct cooling lines etc etc. I have plenty of track time, probably more than you. I'm not getting on a track where I know my skill will out do the car. I'm not driving with over heated brakes, cooking my diff or engine oil, not rolling the car if pushed to hard and getting flopped around in the car in a OEM seat and seatbelt. So before you tell me how to get on a track and man up realize I've probably raced longer and more than you. And since I can see you made some bad choices by only installing a oil cooler and running horrible tire sizes twice! Trust me, I won't be taking your advice about track days. |
In reference to Clintfocus, the motoiq car i was referencing was the blue Robispec (pizzaman) car with the orange rims. I am aware that your car is used for motoiq , i just didn't want you to think that I was referencing yours.
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