Originally Posted by DEpointfive0 I said it first!!! Lol Simple If you have completely stock car, shifting right before the redline, which is past the peak/highest h.p. the car produces
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09-05-2013, 08:08 PM | #31 (permalink) |
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I blame myself for not having a clear enough explanation
Simple
If you have completely stock car, shifting right before the redline, which is past the peak/highest h.p. the car produces is fine. When you get moded & tuned, the peak h.p. redline, & turq & h.p power curve changes. You also want mods & tune that give you a longer steady flat top h.p. chart, instead of a quick up to the highest h.p peak & a quick fall. Even if that H.P. is higher!!!! I can guarantee a twelve second 370z with only doing 3 things to the car. If you know how to drive these 3 things will make the car quicker & faster than any other mods you do. N/A of course 1)Good tires for traction a must-The first 60' feet is where you lose or gain the most of your 1/4 mile run. 2)4:08 gearing-That makes the car get going quicker & gets quicker to the desired shifting point after each shift. 3) Its a two parter. Take off the power robbing cats & replace them with test pipes with a mandatory(because of the change) TUNE!! Don't forget to raise the redline. Don't bother with intakes/exhaust or anything else. The car will be a twelve second car. Last edited by andre12031948; 09-05-2013 at 08:32 PM. |
09-05-2013, 08:21 PM | #32 (permalink) |
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This part is not correct RPM drop between shifts is an agreement between the engine and transmission, and the car doesn't even need a differential installed to know exactly what the drop is.
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Last edited by phunk; 09-05-2013 at 08:24 PM. |
09-05-2013, 08:47 PM | #34 (permalink) |
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This is bad advice. More than a few members have had oil pump failures due to raising the stock redline.
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09-05-2013, 09:02 PM | #36 (permalink) | |
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redline/peak H.P/ & H.P curve-When to shift?? :) intresting???
Quote:
Most people don't take theirs to the track. That's where failures occur. How often is someone at 8k rpm on the street?
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09-05-2013, 09:03 PM | #37 (permalink) | |
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Any aftermarket higher flowing units?
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09-05-2013, 09:05 PM | #38 (permalink) |
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That's exactly the issue. The Nismo unit is the only other one I know of. It's got a billet gear inside as opposed to ours, which I believe is sintered metal.
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09-05-2013, 10:02 PM | #40 (permalink) | |
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I believe that the lightweight crankshaft pulleys add to the problem of the oil pump failures. The lightweight pulleys change the harmonics on the end of the crankshaft. They set-up a vibration that can't be dampened out. Since the oil pump is driven off of the front end of the crankshaft. The vibration goes into the oil pump. breaking the gears in it. Dodge Hemi's have the same set-up almost. And there have been quite afew failures of the oil pump with the light weight pulleys on them too.
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09-05-2013, 11:09 PM | #41 (permalink) | |
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Can you post ANY relevant information on this, or is this more "Lightweight Pulleys are the debil" hearsay? And by relevant, I mean at least two VQ37VHR's with lightweight pulleys and oil pump failures at 'Normal' RPMs (ie, not revved to 9K where they blew up... revved to 7500-8000 where they blew up). |
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09-05-2013, 11:42 PM | #42 (permalink) | |
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09-06-2013, 12:49 AM | #43 (permalink) | |
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Those were most likely externally balanced. 99.99999% of new cars are internally balanced. I have the Stillen pulley and I LOVE IT, great bang for the buck!
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09-06-2013, 01:27 AM | #45 (permalink) |
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20% UD, OEM size is a bit useless IMO
One of my favorite mods, won't say MOST because its not a huge gainer, but I took it off to take to the dealership, and the difference is night and day Revs so much nicer with it I have a brand new one that I couldn't install on my first Maxima, and now that my pops has a Maxima, I'm gonna install it on his without telling him, lol
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Last edited by DEpointfive0; 09-06-2013 at 01:30 AM. |
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