CJM Fuel Starvation Control Product, Round 2

Coyote · 01-15-2015, 02:23 AM

Phunk, were you able to find anything else?
I'll probably have some time saturday afternoon to work on it.

phunk · 01-15-2015, 01:54 PM

nothing really...

JB Weld advertises their SteelStik epoxy product to be fuel safe once fully cured. But some of their plastic-specific products they state do not adhere to polyethylene, which takes them off the table. If their SteelStik will adhere to polyethylene, then it might be an option. But this would have to be investigated.

Otherwise you will have to either melt the plastic together, get it plastic (sonic) welded, or physically clamp it back on somehow.

Coyote · 01-17-2015, 11:04 AM

This is how I clamped it back.
The 3 bottom ones are here to hold our back, the vertical one is here to make sure the 3 horizontal ones don't move, and the upper one is here to hold the vertical one in place.
Do you think it'll be OK?

Rusty · 01-17-2015, 11:09 AM

Did you use any type of glue on it too? 3M makes some glues for plastic. I've use some of their 2 part stuff before. But never on anything like you need. Check them out.

Coyote · 01-17-2015, 11:10 AM

Nope, only plastic zip

phunk · 01-17-2015, 05:36 PM

I am not sure if that will hold or not since I cant tell how sturdy it is from here.

You will want to look up what the zip ties are made of because most plastics will melt inside a fuel tank.

If they are made of Nylon or PTFE they will work.

Rangerz · 01-17-2015, 06:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phunk

I am not sure if that will hold or not since I cant tell how sturdy it is from here.

You will want to look up what the zip ties are made of because most plastics will melt inside a fuel tank.

If they are made of Nylon or PTFE they will work.

I would see if you can pick up a New/Used sending unit off of ebay or something. Take my advice the fewer times you have to go into the tank the better-that just doesn't look like something I would trust long term.

Coyote · 01-18-2015, 03:39 AM

I'll be searching for a replacement or some glue then.
What is the unit made off? polyethylene?

phunk · 01-18-2015, 04:08 AM

its most likely made of HDPE which is a type of polyethylene. But I dont have a way to know that for certain. Its just typical for these fuel pump housings. If you use a glue, make sure to research if that glue will withstand fuel submersion.

zguynate · 01-18-2015, 01:02 PM

Take Rangers advice. Id rather take a pine cone in the a$$ than to pull the fuel assembly back out lol.

takjak2 · 01-18-2015, 01:02 PM

Finished doing my 2nd install of this. Much much easier on the "hard part" with the use of the following two tools:

Extended reach hose pliers

and a wire grabber

This lets you reach into the tank, pull up each hose, and tug them on to the fittings. When you pull up a hose dry the bit of fuel out of the end, and put a liberal amount of motor oil in it. This helps pull it on to the fitting.

takjak2 · 01-18-2015, 01:06 PM

I can't imagine doing it with the seats still in. They're only 4 bolts. Easy to remove. I don't remove the rear plastics going towards the trunk, but I do pull out the piece in front the goes behind the seats. Disconnect the center piece so you can lift it up, and disconnect the front half of the side plastics where the seatbelts are. You can then pull the center piece down and out without removing anything else.

Rusty · 01-18-2015, 06:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dragonbreath

Take Rangers advice. Id rather take a pine cone in the a$$ than to pull the fuel assembly back out lol.

LMFAO over this.

When I read this, I just about spit out my ice tea over my key board.

I know what he means too.

djtodd · 01-18-2015, 06:26 PM

Hahaha. I can't stop thinking about that movie little Nicky now. Pineapple, but you get the idea

Rusty · 01-18-2015, 06:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by djtodd

Hahaha. I can't stop thinking about little Nicky now. Pineapple but you get the idea

Pineapple.............boy, you're a sick puppy! BIG A-hole...uh?

01-15-2015, 01:54 PM	#527 (permalink)
phunk A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Chicago Posts: 3,668 Drives: 370 Rep Power: 974723	nothing really... JB Weld advertises their SteelStik epoxy product to be fuel safe once fully cured. But some of their plastic-specific products they state do not adhere to polyethylene, which takes them off the table. If their SteelStik will adhere to polyethylene, then it might be an option. But this would have to be investigated. Otherwise you will have to either melt the plastic together, get it plastic (sonic) welded, or physically clamp it back on somehow. __________________ Charles @ CJ Motorsports : Website \| Facebook \| Instagram \| YouTube Home of the 9 second, stock longblock, stock drivetrain 6MT 370z. 9.91 @ 142mph

01-17-2015, 11:09 AM	#529 (permalink)
Rusty Ronin Samurai - Assassin Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky Age: 68 Posts: 35,181 Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M Rep Power: 2684437	Did you use any type of glue on it too? 3M makes some glues for plastic. I've use some of their 2 part stuff before. But never on anything like you need. Check them out. __________________ 浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

01-17-2015, 05:36 PM	#531 (permalink)
phunk A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Chicago Posts: 3,668 Drives: 370 Rep Power: 974723	I am not sure if that will hold or not since I cant tell how sturdy it is from here. You will want to look up what the zip ties are made of because most plastics will melt inside a fuel tank. If they are made of Nylon or PTFE they will work. __________________ Charles @ CJ Motorsports : Website \| Facebook \| Instagram \| YouTube Home of the 9 second, stock longblock, stock drivetrain 6MT 370z. 9.91 @ 142mph

01-18-2015, 04:08 AM	#534 (permalink)
phunk A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Chicago Posts: 3,668 Drives: 370 Rep Power: 974723	its most likely made of HDPE which is a type of polyethylene. But I dont have a way to know that for certain. Its just typical for these fuel pump housings. If you use a glue, make sure to research if that glue will withstand fuel submersion. __________________ Charles @ CJ Motorsports : Website \| Facebook \| Instagram \| YouTube Home of the 9 second, stock longblock, stock drivetrain 6MT 370z. 9.91 @ 142mph

01-18-2015, 01:02 PM	#535 (permalink)
zguynate A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Strangeland Posts: 1,054 Drives: 09 370z Rep Power: 73	Take Rangers advice. Id rather take a pine cone in the a$$ than to pull the fuel assembly back out lol. phunk, Rusty and Rangerz like this. __________________ 2009 370z touring w/sports package

01-15-2015, 02:23 AM	#526 (permalink)
Coyote Base Member Join Date: May 2011 Location: France Posts: 54 Drives: 2010 370z 40th Anniv Rep Power: 14	Phunk, were you able to find anything else? I'll probably have some time saturday afternoon to work on it.

01-17-2015, 11:04 AM	#528 (permalink)
Coyote Base Member Join Date: May 2011 Location: France Posts: 54 Drives: 2010 370z 40th Anniv Rep Power: 14	This is how I clamped it back. The 3 bottom ones are here to hold our back, the vertical one is here to make sure the 3 horizontal ones don't move, and the upper one is here to hold the vertical one in place. Do you think it'll be OK?

01-17-2015, 11:10 AM	#530 (permalink)
Coyote Base Member Join Date: May 2011 Location: France Posts: 54 Drives: 2010 370z 40th Anniv Rep Power: 14	Nope, only plastic zip

01-18-2015, 03:39 AM	#533 (permalink)
Coyote Base Member Join Date: May 2011 Location: France Posts: 54 Drives: 2010 370z 40th Anniv Rep Power: 14	I'll be searching for a replacement or some glue then. What is the unit made off? polyethylene?

01-18-2015, 01:02 PM	#536 (permalink)
takjak2 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Sterling, VA Posts: 1,922 Drives: Legit Racecar 370Z Rep Power: 142	Finished doing my 2nd install of this. Much much easier on the "hard part" with the use of the following two tools: Extended reach hose pliers and a wire grabber This lets you reach into the tank, pull up each hose, and tug them on to the fittings. When you pull up a hose dry the bit of fuel out of the end, and put a liberal amount of motor oil in it. This helps pull it on to the fitting. phunk likes this. __________________ Mods \| Stuff \| Things \| Seat Time \| Nismo facebook.com/TeamSparrowSpeed

01-18-2015, 01:06 PM	#537 (permalink)
takjak2 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Sterling, VA Posts: 1,922 Drives: Legit Racecar 370Z Rep Power: 142	I can't imagine doing it with the seats still in. They're only 4 bolts. Easy to remove. I don't remove the rear plastics going towards the trunk, but I do pull out the piece in front the goes behind the seats. Disconnect the center piece so you can lift it up, and disconnect the front half of the side plastics where the seatbelts are. You can then pull the center piece down and out without removing anything else. phunk likes this. __________________ Mods \| Stuff \| Things \| Seat Time \| Nismo facebook.com/TeamSparrowSpeed

01-18-2015, 06:26 PM	#539 (permalink)
djtodd Track Member Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Lexington, SC Posts: 932 Drives: 2012 Nismo TT Rep Power: 3398	CJM Fuel Starvation Control Product, Round 2 Hahaha. I can't stop thinking about that movie little Nicky now. Pineapple, but you get the idea Rangerz likes this. __________________ DJTodd's Build Thread Fast Intentions • Volk • Stoptech • Carbotech • SPL • Southbend • OS Giken • RJM • Sparco • RobiSpec • AIM • Driver Mod Last edited by djtodd; 01-19-2015 at 11:49 AM.

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