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CJM Fuel Starvation Control Product, Round 2

Originally Posted by phunk The instructions are the same except the DW uses different wire colors than the original relay kit that used to come with (painless wiring product). If

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Old 09-08-2015, 12:37 AM   #826 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phunk View Post
The instructions are the same except the DW uses different wire colors than the original relay kit that used to come with (painless wiring product).

If you follow the DW instructions that came inside the relay kit box, that will address the correct wire colors for their product.

The black wire is the 12v switch to relay. This wire is what will trigger the RRP to turn on. I would splice it into the factory fuel pump power wire on the passenger side, but its open to other activation sources if you wish..

The yellow wire is the 12v power to pump. This is the wire that will go to the RRP connector pin that corresponds to your positive (+) internal connector pin.

For the negative fuel pump wire for the RRP fuel pump, this needs a ground source. You can ground it to the chassis or any ground point, such as the relay ground point.

The white wire for the relay kit is a ground, and can be grounded to the chassis or any ground point. I would just ground it to the same bolt that you attach the relay mount with, and I would ground the RRP fuel pump to the same place to keep things simple.
Perfect! Thanks Phunk! Makes complete sense now. Too much gas fumes is my excuse.
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Old 09-08-2015, 12:38 AM   #827 (permalink)
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No problem it can be confusing. I need to get some updates done to the instructions
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Old 09-08-2015, 02:37 AM   #828 (permalink)
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Well I decided to finish up the install tonight since you were so quick to respond. 6-8 tries strarting the car. No luck so far. The engine is trying to start, but it doesn't fire up. I can hear the relay switching on behind me. Don't think I hear the pumps though. Reading 2 dots on the fuel gauge which seems accurate consider how much fuel I put back in.

Look at it in the morning lol.

Edit: just read your comments again. Forgot to run a negative wire for the RRP from the external connector pin. I will fix it in the morning. I need to sleep.

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Old 09-08-2015, 12:41 PM   #829 (permalink)
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It's alive!

Thanks Phunk for the great service.
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Old 09-08-2015, 01:43 PM   #830 (permalink)
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Drove it with 2 dots on the fuel gauge. Took it around th block a few times until 1 dot and 0 miles left on the range.

Filled up 17.1 gallons, but only got 3/4 tank reading on the gauge. Looks like the arms isn't getting full upward motion. So is worse case my fuel gauge won't read accurate until below 3/4 tank in the actual gas tank? Below that it will start reading correct?

If so I may just live with it a little while.

Edit: what's weird is that when I filled up my fuel range said 340miles. Which is what I usually get on a full tank if I remember right. Makes me think something is telling the car I have a full tank.

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Old 09-08-2015, 03:24 PM   #831 (permalink)
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Sounds like the gas pump might have stopped short. The car should take about 19 gallons from an empty tank.

If the tank truly was full, this is where the voltmeter will need to be used to diagnose your level sensor issue. With a full tank, you can check the resistance at the connector on both sides to determine which side is not getting a full reading from the sensor.
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Old 09-08-2015, 03:39 PM   #832 (permalink)
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I thought the fuel pump stopped short too so I went to another pump, but it would not pump any more in.

So will it read accurately once the fuel tank actually gets below 3/4 tank? I would think so.

I may check the drivers side in the near future, but no way in hell in going to pull the pump on the passenger side again.
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Old 09-08-2015, 03:44 PM   #833 (permalink)
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So will it read accurately once the fuel tank actually gets below 3/4 tank? I would think so.
It might, it depends on why its not reading correctly to begin with.
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Old 09-12-2015, 06:02 PM   #834 (permalink)
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Fuel lever started reading fine after 3/4 tank like I hoped.

I think whats causing the problem is the baffle you're supposed to bend. I bent basically the whole baffle up to the top of the tank thinking it would be better to just get the whole thing out of the way since it's pretty worthless. Well when I tested the clearance of the sensor I only concentrated on the lower part of the sweep since that's usually the main concern. I didn't pay attention to the top part of the sweep. If you do it my way you won't have to worry about it clearing the low part. Just make sure you get the baffle flush with the tank roof.

I will fix it later, but right now it's not a concern since the gauge reads accurate once the gas tank gets below 3/4 tank. Sharing so you can learn from my mistake.

I think I smell some gas in the car. Bought gas friendly RTV sealant. Going to check the flange screws to see if they are leaking from the threads. I could just be paranoid and it's just from my test pipes though.
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Old 09-12-2015, 06:15 PM   #835 (permalink)
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I had to put fuel resistant sealant as well.

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Old 09-13-2015, 12:39 AM   #836 (permalink)
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The 3 studs going through the top need a thread sealant on them since they go all the way down into the canister. Fuel will wick up the threads and put some dampness on top of the billet flange. Other than that, the only other place for a possible leak is the normal fuel tank gasket.
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Old 09-19-2015, 10:12 AM   #837 (permalink)
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I have an emergency. Pump died in the middle of the street 1000mi from home. Stock pump is working. How do I rig is back to work on just the stock pump as fast as possible?
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Old 09-19-2015, 10:16 AM   #838 (permalink)
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I think connecting hoses 1 and 2 should do the trick. This should shortcut the rrp and the intank tank altogether.
Problem is to find some plug to be able to do it.

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Old 09-19-2015, 10:18 AM   #839 (permalink)
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that'smy idea, but which is which and how to connect is the issue. homedepot is close, but can't get there
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Old 09-19-2015, 10:20 AM   #840 (permalink)
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is one the front and 2 the middle on driver side?
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