CJM Fuel Starvation Control Product, Round 2

phunk

Excellent... and you are the first to confirm back to me that its working well with forced induction! Have you had a chance to watch fuel pressure under full throttle to see if it holds flat all the way to redline or if there is any slight drop on top to say that the 255 pump is nearing its limit?

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JWillis72

No I haven't but my car isn't big HP, it wasn't falling off with the stock pump. My Aquamist computer was having problems so we shipped it back to the factory but when I get it back up and running I will make a trip to my tuners and I will record a video of the gauge on the dyno for you.


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cossie1600

Just ordered it. My question is how many hours does it take to install it? I am hesitant to do this in my garage due to the garage being under the living room and the smell of fuel will linger around the house. If I were to take it out to a shop, how many hours will they charge me, 2-3?

Rangerz

Probably more like 4 to 6 hrs for a shop first time doing it. I would really recommend doing it yourself so you understand how it all works, which will give you a better idea of where to look for troubleshooting. I used a el cheapo transfer pump from Home Depot and was able to get it damn near empty. Which ever route you go print the instructions in color. When printed in B and W there are a few that look different.

Charles is a great resource for any questions / hiccups you might run into.

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Stillen Gen III/ NST/ Fast Intentions Non-Res HFC & 12" Resonated CF TDX/ Setreb series 9 OC/ SPL upper control arms/ Whiteline front & rear swaybars/ Uprev tuned by Seb@specialtyZ/ 319HP 262TQ/ Z1 PS Cooler/ Z1 SS Premium break lines/ CJM Road Race pump/Carbotech F:XP10 R:XP8 Nismo OC DIY

phunk

Order confirmed, thank you.

I regretfully must be honest and say that it's highly unlikely anyone would get this done in 2-3 hours. Maybe if they had experience with it, and if you took care of some of the stuff such as did all the wiring and etc.

I would be surprised if the fuel smell infiltrated the house if you were to make sure the tank was as nearly empty, and left the garage door wide open... Perhaps push the car halfway out while working. If you take a break you can cover the tank openings.

Then again I could be wrong.

It has been a matter of everyone's personal experience level. We have had the entire spectrum of people who get it done quickly in a day without asking a question, to people who needed a lot of questions answered over a period of a week, and anywhere in between.

It can be done in phases if you change the order up a little bit, leaving the car no more than 15 minutes from being buttoned up and running if you need it to. That would be saving the hard part for the very last, where you cut off the filter feed hose on the stock module and connect the new hoses while putting the module back in the tank.

Rusty

If you're doing it yourself. Drive the Z unil empty or close to it. Remove the seats. It makes it easier to work. What I did was to remove the rear plastic panels. Makes it a whole lot easier.

2 things that I had problems with after the install. One is the hose clamps. Make sure you have them position properly. I had one that I didn't have up high enough on the fitting. After a year the hose popped off the fitting on the driver side, middle hose. Flatbedded the Z home on that one. To fix that problem. I cut about 2" of hose off because the end was separating. Which brought me to my next problem. Hose length. Because of the way I installed the hoses inside the tank. I couldn't get enough slack on the middle hose on the driver side side. So now I had a hose that had too much tension on it when installed. After about 3 weeks. The fitting that snaps on to the RRP broke the plastic catch. Flatbedded home again. Thanks to phunk, he shipped me some fittings and a length of hose that I spliced in. No more problems. All of this was self-inflicted. Nothing to do with the kit itself.

phunk is a great guy to deal with. We text back and forth whenever I have questions or anything else. He's on my Christmas card list now.

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浪人 - 殺し屋
"The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only"
http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

cossie1600

ok, I guess I will do this myself. I am expecting a 1 sec gain on track from a smaller load

Rusty

Take your time and you'll have no problems. Give yourself room to move about in the car. Once you have removed both the right side fuel pump and left side sending unit. Take a small camera and take a couple of pictures inside the tank from both sides. I held the camera in one hand, and used a socket extension to push the button on the camera to take the picture. This will give you an idea of inside the tank. Don't tighten down too tight on the zip-ties inside the tank that hold the 3 hoses into place. Problem #2 for me. Pay attention on the clamp position. Problem #1 for me.

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浪人 - 殺し屋
"The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only"
http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

cossie1600

will do. actually I have noticed my fuel sender unit is funky at times. It isn't accurate and sometimes it doesn't move at all. Is this something I can fix while I am at this?

Rangerz

Yes, as part of the install you will check the ohms on the sending unit. Good time to check the float resistance on the main pump as well. You can find the specks in the FSM. Just take your time and read. Rusty put up a good reference thread too.

Some things you may want to source now if you don't have them.
1. A good solder gun
2. RTV silicone fuel safe
3. Crimpers for the specific connectors that come with the kit. I used **** crimpers on my wire strippers and wish I had the correct ones. Phunk can tell you the type to get.
4. Workmans mirror
5. Transfer pump for the fuel.
6. Most important one ...PATIANCE

I had some issues with installation but, looking back most were self inflicted and getting frustrated that it wasn't going as smooth as I thought it would have.

You have lots of people to ask about it though and when you done and on the track next no worries on high G right handers at 1 to 2 dots on the gauge. The thing just works.

__________________
Stillen Gen III/ NST/ Fast Intentions Non-Res HFC & 12" Resonated CF TDX/ Setreb series 9 OC/ SPL upper control arms/ Whiteline front & rear swaybars/ Uprev tuned by Seb@specialtyZ/ 319HP 262TQ/ Z1 PS Cooler/ Z1 SS Premium break lines/ CJM Road Race pump/Carbotech F:XP10 R:XP8 Nismo OC DIY

cossie1600

Anything is better than a full tank before each session. I will lose at least 50lbs of weight from just going half tank. Also gas cost $3/gallon more at the track, I figure I burn 12 gallons at each track day, it will save me $36 a day. I will pay this off after 28 days

phunk

I can give you a short list of things to check out on the level sensors to figure out where the problem is. If looking into this level sensor thing, I would push back the RRP install a few days to a week and fill the tank full and then observe the level sensor ohms at each side to see which one or both is not reading full. This could be useful information when in later for the install but the install needs an empty tank so it could not be checked at that time.

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cossie1600

thanks

Zauskycop

You forget the MOST important thing of them all...a **** ton of band aids for the small cuts you will get from that *$(#*% edge of the gas tank.

Tracy Ramsey

Rangerz

__________________
Stillen Gen III/ NST/ Fast Intentions Non-Res HFC & 12" Resonated CF TDX/ Setreb series 9 OC/ SPL upper control arms/ Whiteline front & rear swaybars/ Uprev tuned by Seb@specialtyZ/ 319HP 262TQ/ Z1 PS Cooler/ Z1 SS Premium break lines/ CJM Road Race pump/Carbotech F:XP10 R:XP8 Nismo OC DIY