Kinetix front upper control arms

DR_ · 06-06-2013, 09:10 AM

I know these are frowned on by many here because they are the cheapest option but they really aren't that bad. They hold the camber, are easy to adjust, and are just a little over a pound heavier than stock (3 lbs 6 oz vs. 2 lbs 2oz).
On my car, that is lowered less than an inch, I was able to get -2.7 degrees, which was my goal, but I could have gone past -3 degrees by getting a thinner lock nut.
I will still get the SPL arms when they come out but now I don't have to prematurely ruin tires until those arrive.

Sh0velMan · 06-06-2013, 09:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DR_

I know these are frowned on by many here because they are the cheapest option but they really aren't that bad. They hold the camber, are easy to adjust, and are just a little over a pound heavier than stock (3 lbs 6 oz vs. 2 lbs 2oz).
On my car, that is lowered less than an inch, I was able to get -2.7 degrees, which was my goal, but I could have gone past -3 degrees by getting a thinner lock nut.
I will still get the SPL arms when they come out but now I don't have to prematurely ruin tires until those arrive.

I have these as well. My ball joint dust caps have disintegrated since I got them, but they still work.

If you find a thinner nut, lemme know!

DR_ · 06-06-2013, 09:36 AM

I took off the nut just to see how far they would go and I got -4.2 degrees. If you are willing to modify the arms it would be really easy to cut the extra off the end of the arm where the ball joint screws in. So doing that with a thinner nut and I bet -3.5 is achievable, which is probably more than enough.
I am monitoring tire temps at this weekend’s event to see how my –2.7 degree does.

clintfocus · 06-06-2013, 10:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DR_

I took off the nut just to see how far they would go and I got -4.2 degrees. If you are willing to modify the arms it would be really easy to cut the extra off the end of the arm where the ball joint screws in. So doing that with a thinner nut and I bet -3.5 is achievable, which is probably more than enough.
I am monitoring tire temps at this weekend’s event to see how my –2.7 degree does.

this is what i did with my front Kinetix arms, my ride height isnt low and i have my front camber at -3, ill be switching to everything SPL soon though, and i got word from SPL that they are moving to production with their front upper arms

DR_ · 06-07-2013, 08:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by clintfocus

this is what i did with my front Kinetix arms, my ride height isnt low and i have my front camber at -3, ill be switching to everything SPL soon though, and i got word from SPL that they are moving to production with their front upper arms

I'll be moving over to all SPL as well. However, since I can get the rear camber I currently want with the rear stock alignment bolts (-2.0) and the front via the Kinetix arms (-2.7), I'm not in any real hurry.

synolimit · 10-01-2013, 10:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DR_

I took off the nut just to see how far they would go and I got -4.2 degrees. If you are willing to modify the arms it would be really easy to cut the extra off the end of the arm where the ball joint screws in. So doing that with a thinner nut and I bet -3.5 is achievable, which is probably more than enough.
I am monitoring tire temps at this weekend’s event to see how my –2.7 degree does.

Why is the nut needed? Seems impossible for the ball joint to unscrew out of the arm.

phunk · 06-06-2013, 11:42 AM

i lowered my car with just H&R springs. i did the camber and toe kit in the rear, but left the front stock. cant remember where my alignment specs came out, but my front tires are feathered and roaring now. hopefully they will quiet down some if I flip them inside out... cause they still have a ton of tread left and ill be using them until at least next year.

im not real big into alignment specs to know exactly why it happened. but i was figuring i will probably have to get some front upper arms or something to prevent it?

Sh0velMan · 06-06-2013, 12:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phunk

i lowered my car with just H&R springs. i did the camber and toe kit in the rear, but left the front stock. cant remember where my alignment specs came out, but my front tires are feathered and roaring now. hopefully they will quiet down some if I flip them inside out... cause they still have a ton of tread left and ill be using them until at least next year.

im not real big into alignment specs to know exactly why it happened. but i was figuring i will probably have to get some front upper arms or something to prevent it?

If you want to add positive camber to even out wear, you will have to get adjustable arms for sure.

We're actually trying to get MORE negative camber for the track.

Dwnshift · 06-06-2013, 01:47 PM

If you need that much - camber..... You need a bigger front bar
Just sayin
Still

carry on

Rusty · 06-06-2013, 02:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dwnshift

if you need that much - camber..... You need a bigger front bar
just sayin
still

carry on

lmao

Sh0velMan · 06-06-2013, 02:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dwnshift

If you need that much - camber..... You need a bigger front bar
Just sayin
Still

carry on

Haha!

I would love a Doran front bar, I just don't think you could sell me one for what i can afford! haha

synolimit · 09-17-2013, 01:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sh0velMan

Haha!

I would love a Doran front bar, I just don't think you could sell me one for what i can afford! haha

He won't tell us his specs will he?

If you/someone had to guess, whats the stiffest setting on the whiteline come out to stiffness wise or compared to size wise of say the hotchkins at 37mm?

My OEM 13 is 26.5mm and hollow I believe. Curious as to whats the stiffest since I see doran say this all the time on threads.

PS whats everyone elses settings that they like? I was planning to go -2.5 front and -1.5 rear to start with a good size front bar and stock rear. Also plan to run someone's front camber arm like these kinetix (SPC looks scary), spl rear arms with my toe and camber bolt lockout kit so the bolts don't move under load. Camber will be adjusted in the spl arm only and the toe will be adjusted in the toe lockout plate with different drilled holes left or right from center.

DR_ · 06-06-2013, 03:36 PM

FYI the seldom talked about Progress front bar is stiffer than the Hotchkis and you can buy just the front.

Sh0velMan · 06-06-2013, 03:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DR_

FYI the seldom talked about Progress front bar is stiffer than the Hotchkis and you can buy just the front.

Where did you read that it's stiffer?

DR_ · 06-06-2013, 04:05 PM

nevermind. It has the same OD but has thinner walls so it would be softer by a little bit.

06-06-2013, 09:10 AM	#1 (permalink)
DR_ Track Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Dallas Posts: 981 Drives: Touring/Sport M6 PG Rep Power: 17	Kinetix front upper control arms I know these are frowned on by many here because they are the cheapest option but they really aren't that bad. They hold the camber, are easy to adjust, and are just a little over a pound heavier than stock (3 lbs 6 oz vs. 2 lbs 2oz). On my car, that is lowered less than an inch, I was able to get -2.7 degrees, which was my goal, but I could have gone past -3 degrees by getting a thinner lock nut. I will still get the SPL arms when they come out but now I don't have to prematurely ruin tires until those arrive. shivers likes this.

06-06-2013, 11:42 AM	#7 (permalink)
phunk A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Chicago Posts: 3,669 Drives: 370 Rep Power: 974724	i lowered my car with just H&R springs. i did the camber and toe kit in the rear, but left the front stock. cant remember where my alignment specs came out, but my front tires are feathered and roaring now. hopefully they will quiet down some if I flip them inside out... cause they still have a ton of tread left and ill be using them until at least next year. im not real big into alignment specs to know exactly why it happened. but i was figuring i will probably have to get some front upper arms or something to prevent it? __________________ Charles @ CJ Motorsports : Website \| Facebook \| Instagram \| YouTube Home of the 9 second, stock longblock, stock drivetrain 6MT 370z. 9.91 @ 142mph

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06-06-2013, 09:36 AM	#3 (permalink)
DR_ Track Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Dallas Posts: 981 Drives: Touring/Sport M6 PG Rep Power: 17	I took off the nut just to see how far they would go and I got -4.2 degrees. If you are willing to modify the arms it would be really easy to cut the extra off the end of the arm where the ball joint screws in. So doing that with a thinner nut and I bet -3.5 is achievable, which is probably more than enough. I am monitoring tire temps at this weekend’s event to see how my –2.7 degree does.

06-06-2013, 01:47 PM	#9 (permalink)
Dwnshift Track Member Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Cincy Posts: 717 Drives: NISMO 370Z RC Rep Power: 15	If you need that much - camber..... You need a bigger front bar Just sayin Still carry on

06-06-2013, 03:36 PM	#13 (permalink)
DR_ Track Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Dallas Posts: 981 Drives: Touring/Sport M6 PG Rep Power: 17	FYI the seldom talked about Progress front bar is stiffer than the Hotchkis and you can buy just the front.

06-06-2013, 04:05 PM	#15 (permalink)
DR_ Track Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Dallas Posts: 981 Drives: Touring/Sport M6 PG Rep Power: 17	nevermind. It has the same OD but has thinner walls so it would be softer by a little bit.