Kinetix front upper control arms
 

I know these are frowned on by many here because they are the cheapest option but they really aren't that bad. They hold the camber, are easy to adjust, and are just a little over a pound heavier than stock (3 lbs 6 oz vs. 2 lbs 2oz).
On my car, that is lowered less than an inch, I was able to get -2.7 degrees, which was my goal, but I could have gone past -3 degrees by getting a thinner lock nut.
I will still get the SPL arms when they come out but now I don't have to prematurely ruin tires until those arrive.

I have these as well. My ball joint dust caps have disintegrated since I got them, but they still work.

If you find a thinner nut, lemme know!

I took off the nut just to see how far they would go and I got -4.2 degrees. If you are willing to modify the arms it would be really easy to cut the extra off the end of the arm where the ball joint screws in. So doing that with a thinner nut and I bet -3.5 is achievable, which is probably more than enough.
I am monitoring tire temps at this weekend’s event to see how my –2.7 degree does.

i lowered my car with just H&R springs. i did the camber and toe kit in the rear, but left the front stock. cant remember where my alignment specs came out, but my front tires are feathered and roaring now. hopefully they will quiet down some if I flip them inside out... cause they still have a ton of tread left and ill be using them until at least next year.

im not real big into alignment specs to know exactly why it happened. but i was figuring i will probably have to get some front upper arms or something to prevent it?

If you want to add positive camber to even out wear, you will have to get adjustable arms for sure.

We're actually trying to get MORE negative camber for the track. :driving:

If you need that much - camber..... You need a bigger front bar
Just sayin
Still
;) carry on

lmao

Haha!

I would love a Doran front bar, I just don't think you could sell me one for what i can afford! haha

FYI the seldom talked about Progress front bar is stiffer than the Hotchkis and you can buy just the front.

Where did you read that it's stiffer?

nevermind. It has the same OD but has thinner walls so it would be softer by a little bit.

If only there was a place that built quality race parts that worked ....
Hmmmm
;)

^ spl? ;)

Maybe you didn't read my post clearly.
;)
The parts we design and produce jn house have been the same ones we have been racing with for over a year now.

I can vouch for their front camber arms being great. :tup:

this is what i did with my front Kinetix arms, my ride height isnt low and i have my front camber at -3, ill be switching to everything SPL soon though, and i got word from SPL that they are moving to production with their front upper arms

BJ, PM me a price on a front bar, just so we can be sure that it's out of my price range, lmao.

I'll be moving over to all SPL as well. However, since I can get the rear camber I currently want with the rear stock alignment bolts (-2.0) and the front via the Kinetix arms (-2.7), I'm not in any real hurry.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/06/08/9evyqana.jpgAttachment 70584
Just incase you forgot.
;)

So BJ, how do we go about getting some of these mysterious 'quality race parts' that you mentioned? I need front camber arms and will take a front sway as well. Can I get some in this lifetime?

All you have to do is ask ;)
I have one set of front upper control arms left from our first batch.
Drop me a PM and we can go from there.
Bjz

how much are those upper arms?

Phunk...tried to reply but ur box is full.

Some other parts are also in development that others may think are a little more seat of the pants "fun"
;)
First up : Headers.... Like no other set that is currently available.

The big project on the table may be THE hot ticket for power.

Before anyone else can volunteer, I'll be more than happy to supply my car for testing on a street going Z in exchange for some discounted parts. :tup:

Building by own Doran Nismo RC one part at a time.

I need negative camber for other reasons then race. Car is lowered a good 2" with stock camber arms. I have negative camber if course due to my drop... My question is, will the Kinetix front camber arms provide me option to adjust for MORE negative camber?

Sh1t just got weird.

He won't tell us his specs will he?

If you/someone had to guess, whats the stiffest setting on the whiteline come out to stiffness wise or compared to size wise of say the hotchkins at 37mm?

My OEM 13 is 26.5mm and hollow I believe. Curious as to whats the stiffest since I see doran say this all the time on threads.

PS whats everyone elses settings that they like? I was planning to go -2.5 front and -1.5 rear to start with a good size front bar and stock rear. Also plan to run someone's front camber arm like these kinetix (SPC looks scary), spl rear arms with my toe and camber bolt lockout kit so the bolts don't move under load. Camber will be adjusted in the spl arm only and the toe will be adjusted in the toe lockout plate with different drilled holes left or right from center.

Why is the nut needed? Seems impossible for the ball joint to unscrew out of the arm.

It is needed so that the ball joint doesn't rock back and forth. The threads on the ball joint would wear out quickly and eventually fall off causing you to crash and die.