Any drifters out there?

faplifesmitty

I have a issue. Whenever I try to exit a drift my car gets really snappy. My entry is on point and it holds the slide really well, it's just my exiting is not up to par. My buddy Marc( from we" drift) says its my diff attempting to correct my driving. Anyone else car to chime in?

dP3NGU1N

If you're on your stock diff then it's your diff slipping. The stock vlsd is very hard to control because it's never on full lock and its locking point is inconsistent at best. A diff doesn't try to "correct" anything, it only controls where your power is going. Its behavior is purely mechanical in nature and is not dictated by anything else.

Been to two drifting events with the stock LSD. Donuts/figure eights are fairly easy to control but long slides are difficult because when you try to modulate the lsd will fail to hold. I'm still working on getting my new LSD installed. Just waiting for parts.

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35% Hooper Optik | Takeda Attack CAI | F.I. HFC | Hotchkis Sway Bar | Stillen 24row | OS Giken Super Lock LSD | TK Shift Knob | EVO-R Carbon Diffuser

faplifesmitty

I see, but my problem is finishing the slide.
How long where the long slides that you found difficult?

dP3NGU1N

You say you understand and yet you say you're having problems as if the question had not been answered. You are going to continue having problems finishing your slides cleanly because you/we do not have a mechanical locking LSD. I'm not going to say it can't be done, I'm sure someone much better than I can do it with relative ease, but the characteristics of a viscous LSD is that it will never lock 100% and thus your car will retain grip at unexpected moments (IE at the end of your drift).

The key to drifting is to constantly keep the rear tires spinning so they cannot achieve grip. With an open diff you're basically only spinning 1 wheel which is not adequate to maintain a drift. As the VLSD heats up the viscous fluid that allows it to operate basically turns to mush and you're essentially trying to drift with an open diff. This is the problem. You have maybe 30 min to an hour on a track before that happens. Even when it is operating properly it's maybe 80% lock because the LSD is being turned by a liquid and fins instead of gears and discs.

Someone correct me if some of this is way off.

I'm actually not sure exactly how long the section of the track was. I want to say between 75 to 100 feet from entry to exit? but I could be way off... Never exactly walked the track.

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35% Hooper Optik | Takeda Attack CAI | F.I. HFC | Hotchkis Sway Bar | Stillen 24row | OS Giken Super Lock LSD | TK Shift Knob | EVO-R Carbon Diffuser

DriftKr6l

Want Drift, need proper LSD, end of story.

Im prepping my Z for drifting now, a proper LSD is at the top of my list, I am still unsure which one to go with though, I like Kazz, had it in my S14.5, I also like the Nismo GT PRO, I dont think you need to spend over $1500 for a quality LSD.

Suspension is next.

faplifesmitty

Okay, I get it.That explains why things progressively got worse. My car also went into limp mode👎and the frustration got worse. Thanks for the reply btw

faplifesmitty

Yea, I noticed. I'll just deal with it for now since I don't drift competitively. Suspension, wheels, and exhaust are coming soon though.

dP3NGU1N

Do you have an oil cooler? Our car desperately needs one if it's going to see the track at all. I recommend 25row stillen kit (you have difficultly getting to optimal temperature with anything larger). If you were not hitting high temperatures and STILL hit limp mode then disconnect the battery and drain it (sit on the brakes or something) and then reconnect. Should fix the issue. I hit something similar to limp mode without going over 220 oil temp. No CEL, nothing. Had to disconnect battery and do the drain thing before the car would let me go over 4k RPM again. I don't know why it locked me up but it did. After the reset it didn't happen again for the rest of the day though.

If you like drifting I would suggest an LSD over the suspension. Our cars don't exhibit a ridiculous amount of body roll so a full coilover can wait a bit. The benefits of the LSD over the suspension for drifting is going to be higher. Or get the suspension and wait on the rims. Our sport rims are great. Infact I'm considering buying base rims to drift on since they'll be easier to break loose.

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35% Hooper Optik | Takeda Attack CAI | F.I. HFC | Hotchkis Sway Bar | Stillen 24row | OS Giken Super Lock LSD | TK Shift Knob | EVO-R Carbon Diffuser

Apollo8642

I would highly recommend you do something about the fuel starvation the 370z suffers from as well.

Here is my guide lines of things you need to be able to drift proper. I have little over 13 years of drifting and being heavily into it. I have seen my share of cars go to the scap yard, including one I put there myself.
My last drift car engine build www.ka-t.org :: View topic - My build

#1, A good LSD 1.5way for more experienced drivers and 2way for the newbies. can't afford a good diff and still going to drift no matter what, you might as well just weld it. (yes you can daily drive a welded diff)
#2, Good brakes, and no ABS
#2 1/2, Cooling, oil, diff and power steering coolers, the Z's are known to boil their diff fluid, and that is a bad thing specially for a clutch type LSD, drifting puts a lot of heat in to your car, keeping the engine fluids, power steering fluids cool is important.
#3, Suspention, good coilovers (look and see what Chris Forsberg is running and his setup on his 370Z FD car) also include adjustable arms, bushings, and solid bushings for the diff, subframe, steering rack, and rear knuckles are best for drifting. Reason for these is the play you get from the rubber or poly bushings can be a little bit unpredictable, and installing solid bushing will make the car very loud, but it will handle more predictable and that is something you want.
#3 1/2, Get your car corner balanced and your suspension proper aligned for what your doing, it will make a huge difference.
#4, Fuel starvation, right hand turns are a bitch when you pushing those lateral G's in the 370z's.
The advice section:
#5, Make sure you have a second car, difting will break the things.
#6, Remember it's not if you wreck, it's when you wreck, and drifting can be damn expensive, don't be a cheap *** on parts either.
#7, Drifting is something you do before, in, and out of a corner. Power sliding, doughnuts, and power overs are not drifting, no matter what anyone else tells you.
#8, Work on your short game build a foundation then work your way up to the big stuff. Driving an under powered car is the best way to build a solid foundation. Cars like the AE86, and the S13/S14 etc (aka your drift bitch, something your not afraid to hurt and usually is ugly as hell but cheap for parts), will help you lean more and be a much better driver/drifter.
#9, Good Luck!

DriftKr6l

Is there a fix for fuel starvation?
Does it start starving at certain fuel levels only?

dP3NGU1N

People have reported it at around a quarter tank. I usually fill up before sessions and have yet to experience fuel starvation.

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35% Hooper Optik | Takeda Attack CAI | F.I. HFC | Hotchkis Sway Bar | Stillen 24row | OS Giken Super Lock LSD | TK Shift Knob | EVO-R Carbon Diffuser

Jbwrecked

Happened to me a little under a quarter. After taking a hard right turn pretty aggressively. Seems to happen mostly on hard right turns

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Cbtech

+1 has happened to me twice with a quarter tank. Just last night actually.

clintfocus

my 370 is not a drift car, but i run the Cusco Type RS clutch type differential, which has alot of tuneability. It can be setup for both 1.5 way or 2 way, as well as other settings that dictate lockup behavior

Rusty

Yes there is. You have to install "phunk's" road race pump kit. It's a second fuel pump that gets installed in the tank on the drivers side. It's not cheap. You're looking at a $1000.00. It will take you about a day to install it. Here's a link to my install, and another talking about the problem.

phunk's road race fuel pump install

Fuel Starvation Control Product

Attached Images

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