370 as a track car
 

I am going to purchase a 2009 370 z to be used mostly as a track car. I am thoroughly confused on the sizing of tires and wheels for this car. I have always been a German car owner this will be my first rice burner. The model I am looking at has the sport package. I need to run an R compound tire such as a hoosier.
What size wheel and brand are available in 18 inch and what size hoosier do I need to get?
I am just trying to get a fix on tire price before I purchase the car.

if you don't lower it much, 275/35-18, but they are pretty short. When I had the car slammed, I ground down my exhaust flanges and front bumper. Now I mostly run 275.40 or 295/40 in Hoosier.

Just be advised, you are also going to need an oil cooler, and brake cooling ducts are also well advised. Also, the car doesn't like right hand turns, like turn 1 at Barber, with less than 7/8 of a tank. There is a fix, but its pricey and sold out at the moment. Member Phunk here makes it.

Its a very rewarding car to drive on the track, but it does have a lot of shortcomings that need to be addressed to be fully functional and worry free on the track.

What are the most common shortcomings and things that needs to prioritize to fix to make it a worthwhile track car other than having the oil cooler for one.Thanks
Note:
Not intended for race competition just for fun track days.

Make sure to research things well. The ice mode brake issue on Hoosiers will be scary, you need big oil cooler, rear diff cooler is recommended, stock clutch slave is weak link, track brake pads and good fluid a must. 295 rear Hoosier and 285 front is nice setup.

I've had no ice mode, so I can't speak to that. However, I run stoptech trophy brakes.

Oil Cooler
Brake cooling ducts
larger power steering cooler
Fuel system, or just fill up every session. I did that for 3 years and it was just fine
Diff cooler is nice, but not real necessary, imo, but I have one

Brake ducts more important than CAI airflow? Can the ducts be routed to both brakes and CAI? My CAI sit right in front of the tires encaged in plastic (but I have removed the side brackets and bumper cutouts so that air can get in there). I am guessing that as long as I am running on the track and the CAI are in front of the car then they should get enough airflow.

P/S cooler just a hot swap item? Can I just get a bigger cooler and plug it in? (increasing the fluid I assume as well)

Oil cooler - 19row? 24row? what size is needed vs. what size everyone else wants to get. I am guessing 24 row minimum is optimum but will a 19 do it on the track?

CAI airflow? if you have one of the good CAI systems then the whole point of that system is that it is placed where there is cooler/better airflow. This just gives slight power increase and is by no means necessary for track use. In fact most of the Nismo RC race cars run with the stock, boxed air intakes if im not mistaken.

Brake cooling on the other hand IS a necessity for track use, as well as pads and racing brake fluid.

Z1 motorsports and Stillen both make simple PS cooler swaps that arent expensive.

Oil cooler. Honestly I truly recommend anyone that plans to constantly bring their cars to track days to get a 34 row cooler. Its the only cooler that truly brings the oil temps down to where they are suppose to be. But problem is if you DD your car and live in cooler climate areas you will need to let the car warm up a lot and also install a block off plate.

what he said.

Thank you for all of the info. I don't think I am going to go with a nissan. I will stick with my R8 until I figure out a cheaper alternative

It's not expensive to get the car to a point where it's safe and reliable. A good $3,000 would be a number to toss around I think. May need Mike, Spohn, Chris, Shamu or another track junky to comment.

If you want a race car buy a race car, don't build one. It is soooo much cheaper to buy one than build one out of a nice street car. For instance my Prelude race car, that is for sale btw, does about the same lap times as my Z but at a fraction of the cost.

There is a T2 (I think), racecar 370z for sale on this forum.

Everyone has summed it up pretty much. There's just several items that has to be addressed to have a more flawless track car.

I say go 350Z
 

If I was in your position (not already owning a 370Z) I would seriously consider getting a 350Z. The 370Z has not depreciated enough to make it an economical track car.

Also, the introduction of NASA Spec Z with its support from Nissan Motorsports makes competition parts readily available.

I have given many point byes to well sorted Spec 350Z’s with good drivers.

I remember seeing a NASA Spec 350Z in Sports Car for $15,000.00 and it had everything including a Piper cage (think $5,000.00 or more for the install).

I have a built 370 fs. All of the common issues are addressed including Tevis abs system. Much cheaper than building a track car.

http://www.the370z.com/370z-sale/664...-race-car.html

That's what I did! I'm building a SpecZ car now and I'm down to just safety equipment and a little bit of an adjustment to the frame (they didn't pull the frame forks enough to get the core support on properly) and my projected cost is just over $20,000 from wreck to race.

I'd be really surprised to see a $15,000 SpecZ since the suspension kit is $4,500 and differentials are likely over $1000. It's probably a good buy! :P

It is in the classified section of this months Sports Car Magazine.

We just built one and it has been a nightmare thus far and not one I recommend. The advice here is already good advice ;)

These are ABSOLUTELY ESSENTIAL!! I tracked my stock Sport 370 at NOLA yestersay, brakes got hot, went dead on right hand turn with quarter tank of gas and had to be towed to the infield, and limiter came on when the oil got hot....in short the entire day sucked, I am selling this thing for a Boss 302.

all of that is fixable for under 2000. will you lose more than that geting a boss?

Yeah.. MHO the hell with mustangs. Hate em.

Thanks everyone for the insight. Still learning and growing. I am not trying to make to perfect track car by any means but I am just trying to get into the hobby with the hopes that I can take my car to the track, whoop some *** and take some names and test my abilities, not crash, bring her home and drive her to work the next day. When I hit the lottery or get my shot at GT Academy then maybe we can talk about dedicated race car.

Mike why did you mention that the car hates right turns?

Fuel starve issue.

It's because of the fuel starvation that our cars have. When you get low on fuel even half a tank or just a little bit more than half a tank on right hand turns our cars can't pick up fuel. And the car starts to struggle sometimes causing it shut off Especially the lower you get in fuel. There is a fix for this. Mike myself and several others on this form have this fuel fix. Search the forum for fuel starvation fix. Be prepared to spend about 1K though. This is a must if you track a lot. But if you don't just make sure you keep your tank full.

the easiest fix is to fill up every session.

Wow, I wanted to keep my Z as a weekend trackday car, as well as drive it on the street, but you guys are starting to make me wonder....

If you are just starting out. Change the brake and clutch fluid. Change your brake pads too. Add an oil cooler. Basically keep it stock. Change things when your skills improve, or you run into problems. ;)

Better off with: http://i.ebayimg.com/t/4-Pk-Blue-VP-...VIg~~60_58.JPG

if you don't want to spill.

Baller!

I just had so much trouble spilling fuel with those spill-proof cans. Always seemed to drench my rear fender.

Me too. There junk.

I am cheap and lazy, I just use this. $15 at Amazon

I agree, I am in the same boat as OP. After talking to pops who has been tracking porsches for years, and reading what everyone has written(done my research), and having talked with local garage that runs track events. Brake pads, brake lines, brake fluid, maybe oil cooler next for summer-seem to be the best dollar for dollar upgrades you can do. Next for me would probably be tires.


You are going to get around the track with better times if you can brake well and hold the road. And if you are starting in a beginner group like I am, you are not going to be doing full speed for some time anyway. So things like CAI and exhaust upgrade are going to do you minimal good since those only seem to make a difference at the higher RPM's.

Things is, the stock Z already IS a fast car. Keep it and yourself alive-brakes+tires.

as a beginner, you really don't need much more than that. You can add the other stuff as your skill level improves. Once you have this car all sorted out to your tastes, its a blast on the track.

Mike what good brand/type of brake pads to buy for track day use?
Do I need to change rotors too? Slotted or drilled?
what brand of brake fluid is good?
Is the swift springs can hold in the track?
Thanks,sorry for the 2 many questions.

Carbotech XP8s with street tires, 10s with a performance street/track like the NT01s, or XP12s with Hoosiers.

I like Motul RBF600 and brembo fluid, they both have about the same specs.

no need to change rotors until they wear out. slotted ok, but not drilled.

I have no experience with swift springs, but I tracked for 2 years on eibach springs and stock shocks just fine.

You can use XP12 on a street tire no problem.

I run XP10 on street tires. But they need to be a high performance tire such ad AD08 or RE 11. Even then if your hard on the brakes it will overload them (tires) at times. Depends how deep you go and track conditions. But I'd just start put on XP8. Just as good and a little cheaper.

EDIT: I have XP10's not 12's. Sorry. I see no way 12's on street tires would work.

XP12s are too much for my Nitto NT-01s, but I brake very late and very hard. I had to go down to hawk blues with the nittos.