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Hi all. I'm relatively new to SCCA autocross though I do have several years of experience in my well prepared 240z with a small club in northern CA. Last April
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#1 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Santa Rosa
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Drives: 2012 370Z CS T1
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Hi all. I'm relatively new to SCCA autocross though I do have several years of experience in my well prepared 240z with a small club in northern CA. Last April I bought a new 370z and thus far my nephew (co-driver) and i have run the car at about 6 scca events and about 7 or 8 small club events. My intention with buying a new car was to run in a stock class with SCCA (CS-T1 road tire class San Francisco Region), because i felt the level of competition is higher with SCCA than what i'm used to, and after taking a hard honest look at my driving i decided my skills needed improvement as I felt like to some degree, I had been hiding behind a very fast car while not necessarily improving my driving as much as i had improved the car. So my ultimate goal is to go much faster by way of improving my driving first. To date, my driving is probably not yet where i want it (sound familiar?), but i have been practicing and i am getting faster consistently. While I'm not planning on buying any parts until i feel better about the driving, i'm tempted to start doing homework on go faster parts. What i notice about the 370 is that it seems to be a bit tail happy during on throttle corner exit and with the viscous LSD it seems to have difficulty putting power down to the inside wheel as you unwind the steering and accelerate. I'm wondering what kind of results others have had with by installing a larger front sway bar. Are other folks experiencing the same thing, and does the front bar change help? Thanks.
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#4 (permalink) |
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The sway bars on a Nismo are stiffer than the standard bars and are factory, this may help getting around the rule limitations. Maybe going with an Nismo factory barat the front and an aftermarket rear adjustable might give you the combination you are looking for.
Its trial and error. |
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#5 (permalink) | |
A True Z Fanatic
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#6 (permalink) |
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Thanks Boss_302. I actually had the same thought, so today i called the dealer (parts dept.) and they tell me that the only difference in bars is between the touring model and sport package. My car has the sport package. Not sure where the confusion lies and So far i haven't found detailed info on the NISMO bars on-line. They also gave me a functioning phone number (though they were closed) for nissan motorsports. Apparently NISMO is "no longer part of nissan", but perhaps nissan motorsports is actually racing zcars. Haven't heard anything about NM in years, but back in the day they always had the best parts and most experience (for the most part) with my 240z. Be interesting to see when i call them back.
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#8 (permalink) |
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Here's a chart someone showed me when I was looking at sway bars. Hope it helps.
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'11 370Z Nismo #528 Fast Intentions | Stillen | Motordyne | Uprev | CSF | Zspeed | Z1 Motorsports | AST | Swift | SPC | SPL | Whiteline | Hotchkis | Bride | Schroth | Robispec | Cusco | Nismo | Volk | Forgestar | Hoosier | RJM '17 Titan Bone Stock |
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#10 (permalink) | |
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Eibach Front Sway: 4.52 kg Eibach Rear Sway: 3.80 kg Stock Front Sway: 3.51 kg Stock Rear Sway: 1.97 kg Also you could theoretically do a more detailed calculation if you measured the "lever arm" length of the various endlink setting holes and added that into the calculation. Shorter lever arm means less mechanical advantage, making it effectively stiffer. Though I don't know how much value there is in trying doing these calculations when really the inner diameter is only a guess.
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PPE Headers SS/Coated/Wrapped | Ebay y-pipe | Custom 3" single exhaust w/ Magnaflows | UpRev | Racingbrake 2pc Rotors | 40th calipers | Eibach sways | SPL endlinks, diff mounts | RJM pedal | Stillen Intakes, UDP, Flywheel | M370 Manifold | Z1 engine mounts, CSC-EK, Clutch | Forgestar F14 18x10 | Conti DWs | Quaife diff/4.08 gears | Nismo diff cover |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Anyways, I like the feel of the eibachs, so far I have only tried it on soft setting on front and middle setting on rear.
I was a little concerned when reading the eibach install guide, it basically said don't use the stiffest settings front or rear in the rain. My Z is my daily driver so it sees rain on occasion, should I be concerned about going stiffer in front? I guess I don't really see how less roll is going to make rainy conditions more dangerous.
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PPE Headers SS/Coated/Wrapped | Ebay y-pipe | Custom 3" single exhaust w/ Magnaflows | UpRev | Racingbrake 2pc Rotors | 40th calipers | Eibach sways | SPL endlinks, diff mounts | RJM pedal | Stillen Intakes, UDP, Flywheel | M370 Manifold | Z1 engine mounts, CSC-EK, Clutch | Forgestar F14 18x10 | Conti DWs | Quaife diff/4.08 gears | Nismo diff cover |
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#12 (permalink) | |
A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Perrysburg, OH
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__________________
'11 370Z Nismo #528 Fast Intentions | Stillen | Motordyne | Uprev | CSF | Zspeed | Z1 Motorsports | AST | Swift | SPC | SPL | Whiteline | Hotchkis | Bride | Schroth | Robispec | Cusco | Nismo | Volk | Forgestar | Hoosier | RJM '17 Titan Bone Stock |
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#13 (permalink) |
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Yeah I know, I saw that chart before I bought my sways also. I took it with a grain of salt knowing that the inner diameter was a guess(it says so on chart). Not sure who the original creator was. Its still a neat comparison given the limited data available.
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PPE Headers SS/Coated/Wrapped | Ebay y-pipe | Custom 3" single exhaust w/ Magnaflows | UpRev | Racingbrake 2pc Rotors | 40th calipers | Eibach sways | SPL endlinks, diff mounts | RJM pedal | Stillen Intakes, UDP, Flywheel | M370 Manifold | Z1 engine mounts, CSC-EK, Clutch | Forgestar F14 18x10 | Conti DWs | Quaife diff/4.08 gears | Nismo diff cover |
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#14 (permalink) |
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Yea, I understand about the rules. Use to run formula fords. Sometimes we just drop the rear bar, but than we had other things to adjust,
One thing you can do is play with the tire pressures front to back, a couple of pounds either way could make a difference, alignment is important. You can get a tire pyrometer and measure the temperature across the thread and see if you are making full contact and fine tune the alignment accordantly |
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