Ohlins will be more expensive, but I would pay it happily. Are you still using the factory diff? That will have a big role in balance if you upgrade to
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02-08-2013, 10:57 PM | #17 (permalink) |
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Good point. I have plans on going with a Torsen-type rear diff. I reckon that would govern a slightly softer rear than factory split.
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2011 Nismo with...Stillen Gen3 CAI, FI LTH's, Stillen CBE with Springfielddyno rear section. Stillen under drive crank pulley, UpRev, and LW flywheel. Penske 8300DA Valved by ANZE, SPR FCA's, Stillen F/R adj. sway bars, Enkei PF01's, and Hoosier A6's |
02-23-2015, 07:58 AM | #19 (permalink) |
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So to bring this thread back from the dead.
According to the math I'm coming up with 1100 lb springs up front and 900 lb in the rear for suspension frequencies of 2.35hz (fr) and 2.31hz (rear). As it sits the corner weights are ~900lbs at each front corner and ~700 lbs at each rear corner. Car is used for autox. Will be using the stock spring locations as the rules prohibit going to a true coil over. Are these too stiff or just right?
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02-23-2015, 11:36 AM | #20 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
I still daily my car but have finally settled on 12k/10k full stiff stillen front and I ended up pulling the rear bar completely. I think 12k/ 8 or 9K with a rear OEM bar would probably be nearly equivalent. For autoX nice smooth surface you could definitely go higher, but I think I am at or near the limit of what you would want to DD. That's a little soft by some standards, but our tracks in socal are not very smooth for the most part, have a lot of elevation changes, and I still need to get over those damn bumps in my office's parking lot.
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02-23-2015, 01:00 PM | #21 (permalink) |
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I started at 1100/650 (Hotchkis front and rear bars) and it's in the ballpark. Without a rear bar I'd probably start at 1100/800. That that's with skinny little 255 street tires on 18x9's all around. Would go higher on big ST tires or R comps.
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