In what ways do brake pads effect ABS? Do low pads(oem) cause ABS light? front or rear?
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10-19-2015, 10:40 AM | #17 (permalink) | |
A True Z Fanatic
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I recommend Carbotech XP8 unless you're running R-Comp tires @ the track, but that's a different conversation.
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2018 Camaro SS 1LE (455hp) - 2011 Nissan 370z (333hp) - 2004 VW R32 (240hp) - 2000 Civic Si (160hp)
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10-19-2015, 10:52 AM | #18 (permalink) | |
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Thanks. How has the Stillen brake ducting held up for you? Any issues? I daily drive my car, so I was concerned if it would hold up to daily use. |
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10-19-2015, 11:00 AM | #19 (permalink) |
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I have tried in order of preference favorite at the top:
Endless MX-72's Currently on Hawk DTC's Defigo's Carbotech 10/8 Winmax 6 All very different experiences. I use OEM Sport akebonos, slotted Stoptech rotors up front, with oem replacement blank rotors in the rear. Currently with the Hawk DTC's the bias is good but the DTC's are overkill for my RS-3 tires and they definitely get into the ABS a bit much. Albeit, they stop like a truck, but lack the feel of say an Endless pad, and are pretty hard on the rotors. I might take them off and save them for when I switch to the RC-1 tires. Buddy of mine Anthony(he's on this forum somewhere), is trying out the Endless Me-20, I may switch to those based on his feedback. Would definitely like to try a Pagid or Performance Friction at some point as well. Will probably try another Endless compound next, something above the MX-72.
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Current Mods: Vorpal Weapon +5. Last edited by GSS138; 10-19-2015 at 11:17 AM. |
10-19-2015, 08:08 PM | #21 (permalink) |
Ronin Samurai - Assassin
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My set-up is the stock Sport Akebonos, Stillen brake cooling ducts, Racing Brake 2 piece rotors, Ti brake pad heat shields, Z1 stainless brake lines, Motul 600 brake fluid, EBC Yellowstuff pads. The pads are done. Thinking on going with either the Carbotech 10/8 combo, the Pagids, or ????
The Yellowstuff pads are great for hard DDing. Good feel and bite. Some dust.
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浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html Last edited by Rusty; 10-19-2015 at 08:10 PM. |
10-21-2015, 11:34 AM | #22 (permalink) | |
A True Z Fanatic
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Quote:
They will hold up to a lot of heat and dust very little. Stay OEM unless you're tracking it. NOTE: OEM is ceramic
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2018 Camaro SS 1LE (455hp) - 2011 Nissan 370z (333hp) - 2004 VW R32 (240hp) - 2000 Civic Si (160hp)
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10-21-2015, 11:36 AM | #23 (permalink) | |
A True Z Fanatic
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I've had issues with the ducting not cooling ENOUGH... but the hoses and routing are all stable after 30,000 miles.
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2018 Camaro SS 1LE (455hp) - 2011 Nissan 370z (333hp) - 2004 VW R32 (240hp) - 2000 Civic Si (160hp)
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10-21-2015, 09:49 PM | #24 (permalink) |
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Used to run Carbotech XP10 Front/XP8 Rear on the stock sport package brakes with stainless lines (all brake components and pads are for sale currently)
Now have AP racing BBK with Mintex F3R in front and the Mintex xtreme in the rear. This weekend will be my first time trying this combo out on NT01 r comps. |
10-27-2015, 08:47 PM | #25 (permalink) |
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I run PFC 08 although I also have a set of PFC 01. PFC 665 fluid. Whatever cheap blanks I can find.
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2011 Nissan 370z Black Cherry Sport Pkg - Daily Driver, , 1960 Morgan +4 fun car, 1986 BMW 325ES, 1998 M3 and 1996 Spec Miata - Race Cars SUPPORT TEAM WINSOME RACING - WRL, CHUMP, LEMONS |
10-29-2015, 10:47 PM | #26 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
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6MT - designed for perfectionists 7AT - designed for enthusiasts |
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