The Official 370Z Autocross Thread

[Zauskycop]

Originally Posted by chknhawk

Really? That's good to know. So I can autocross on disconnected rear sway and I have not have any problems... Should I at least zip tie it or something?

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Yes, zip tie the endlink to something so it isn't flopping around.

Tracy

[Masterbeatty]

Originally Posted by redline10000

Very nice. I looked up the motons for the 370z and they are 4k. Were your konis done by true choice?

Also have you run anything more midrange? Something better than the konis but less expensive than motons and penske? 2k is my limit.

I run stance Pro Comp 2's and love them. they were right on par with your 2k limit.

[redline10000]

Originally Posted by Masterbeatty

I run stance Pro Comp 2's and love them. they were right on par with your 2k limit.

I see a lot of ppl here are running stance. I guess I am just a bit worried about quality. I read mixed reviews about stance being really good quality and some saying that its not others say its the best, so confusing. I know you have a custom setup from them though so that may be different. Could you PM on FB?

And chkhawk I do like the BC's but again everyone has mixed reviews on them. Seems to be the trend sub 2k.

[redline10000]

Originally Posted by Zauskycop

Yes, zip tie the endlink to something so it isn't flopping around.

Tracy

Does this add to the rear traction? Any downsides to driving around like this daily?

[Zauskycop]

Yes, no rear swaybar will add to your rear traction, and I suppose that there would be no downsides that I can think of. For the sake of aftermarket parts though, I would check the swaybar through its entire travel to make sure it doesn't hit any parts...

Tracy

[Masterbeatty]

Originally Posted by Zauskycop

Yes, no rear swaybar will add to your rear traction, and I suppose that there would be no downsides that I can think of.

Tracy

I have to dissagree. I took mine off a few weeks ago and found i had more rear end roll and was alittle squirly. I just took off the end links and ran wire to hold up the swaybar because if it is not held up by anything then it would bang against my SPL toe arm. IMO unless it is completely off then it is phucking dumb to roll around with it not connected.

[PharmDZ]

For those of you running Hoosier A6's - I have the Eibach F/R sway bars. I am under the impression that with the hoosiers and autox you'd want the rear sways a bit more loose if not disconnected altogether. Is it worth loosening it up to the next setting? I'm gonna be running a set of slightly used hoosiers for the first time next autox and I'm trying to get the car set up a bit today.

[Zauskycop]

Originally Posted by Masterbeatty

I have to dissagree. I took mine off a few weeks ago and found i had more rear end roll and was alittle squirly. I just took off the end links and ran wire to hold up the swaybar because if it is not held up by anything then it would bang against my SPL toe arm. IMO unless it is completely off then it is phucking dumb to roll around with it not connected.

I would say that if you are going to never run it, then yes...take it off. Not sure how more roll in the rear makes it squirrely, but perhaps for your driving style it does.

It is a tuning tool. I have run many cars at the track or autocrossing where disconnecting the rear swaybar tightens the car up...that's what it does plain and simple. Do I advise driving constantly like that? No unless you love it so much that you just remove it.

The original question didn't mention SPL toe arms though...and did you remove BOTH enlinks? Or just one??

Tracy

[gomer_110]

Originally Posted by PharmDZ

For those of you running Hoosier A6's - I have the Eibach F/R sway bars. I am under the impression that with the hoosiers and autox you'd want the rear sways a bit more loose if not disconnected altogether. Is it worth loosening it up to the next setting? I'm gonna be running a set of slightly used hoosiers for the first time next autox and I'm trying to get the car set up a bit today.

Front full stiff, rear full soft. Just changed mine to this recently and it made a considerable improvement to handling.

[03threefiftyz]

Originally Posted by redline10000

Very nice. I looked up the motons for the 370z and they are 4k. Were your konis done by true choice?

Also have you run anything more midrange? Something better than the konis but less expensive than motons and penske? 2k is my limit.

I can't really recommend anything in the 2k range, sorry. I am not a fan of AST (don't think they exist anymore?) or KW. You can get single Ohlins for mid 2's new now, which are an OK option, but limited on bump travel in OTS spec. You will probably want to play with rates on those shocks as well, the OTS springs are progressive I believe. Give them a good toss into the garbage when they arrive if you go that route. They also come with top mounts. You will get ONLY the shocks themselves if you go with upper tier (Moton, Penske, Ohlins TTX, etc) shocks. Unless you are a good fabricator, etc you will want to set aside at least 1k for assorted springs and getting spherical top mounts made...

[redline10000]

Originally Posted by 03threefiftyz

I can't really recommend anything in the 2k range, sorry. I am not a fan of AST (don't think they exist anymore?) or KW. You can get single Ohlins for mid 2's new now, which are an OK option, but limited on bump travel in OTS spec. You will probably want to play with rates on those shocks as well, the OTS springs are progressive I believe. Give them a good toss into the garbage when they arrive if you go that route. They also come with top mounts. You will get ONLY the shocks themselves if you go with upper tier (Moton, Penske, Ohlins TTX, etc) shocks. Unless you are a good fabricator, etc you will want to set aside at least 1k for assorted springs and getting spherical top mounts made...

I didn't find the Ohlins for the 370 only the 350.

I called truechoice and they said they can custom make a set of Koni yellows for me with ground control sleeves in the front for $1300, not too bad. That also includes valving for swift linear race springs. Maybe that will have to be the route I take. Only problem will be finding a way to adjust the rear ride height as truechoice wants $700 for a custom rear spring perch.

Also gotta keep in mind that this is my DD on crappy roads.

[03threefiftyz]

I don't have anything nice to say about truechoice, so I'll stay quiet.

[redline10000]

Originally Posted by 03threefiftyz

I don't have anything nice to say about truechoice, so I'll stay quiet.

Haha I know. I have been reading threads on my350z.com and see that you recomend ProParts. I gave them a call today and the guy quoted me a fair price with hyperco springs, koni sleeves, koni yellows, custom valving and a megan racing rear perch. Its in the ballpark of KW v1's but should perform way better.

[cjwsrt6]

Would anyone be willing to share what rim/tire combo they're running for autocross? I'm looking to downsize to 18's with 295 35 18 bf goodrich rivals squared, or possibly 285 35 18 rs3's but just wanted to get some ideas of what other people know fit, ie: tire size, offset and such
going to try and stay in CS
I see nismosis is running 295 rivals, anyone know what rim set up he's running?

[Bondfire]

I'm on stock wheels, but more info never hurts. I ran 275/35 and 305/30 RS-3's on the stock wheels. However, I just moved back down to stock 245/40 and 275/35 on Z2 and I think it feels better than the wider setup did.