The Official 370Z Autocross Thread

j-rho · 08-18-2014, 01:31 PM

Ran my first event in the car Saturday, couple quick Q:
1. Are there any front bars out there stiffer than the Hotchkis? In the past I've usually built my own swaybars using modular components from Speedway Engineering, has anybody done something similar on a Z and have pictures of how they did it?
2. Before each run I pushed the button to make the little yellow skidmarks icon light up, but there seemed to be a lot of different lights flashing during the run. I think there was one when the revs got high, and maybe a flashing yellow one sometimes, and in watching video later, it seemed like the trip odometer section would light up and turn off at times on course. Is there any rhyme or reason to all this Christmas tree action? Are there any I should be worried about? There's not much time to look at that stuff, but if there's an important one to watch for...

Car was decent, pretty floppy soft, even for a stock car. Went way to push once all leaned over, too bad they didn't provide some negative camber adjustability up front, it would be soooooooooo much better a car.

Oh, it was warm (~97) out. Did two runs in short succession. Oil temp went 180->220 in one run, 220->240+ on the second. Probably couldn't have survived a third without limp mode.

AutoX Z · 08-19-2014, 02:40 PM

Hotchkis is the stiffest bar.

Flashing lights are most likely the light for the ELSD kicking in (car applying brakes to spinning tire).

Defrost, full heat, hood open between runs. Spray the radiator if necessary.

gomer_110 · 08-19-2014, 03:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AutoX Z

Defrost, full heat, hood open between runs. Spray the radiator if necessary.

While counter intuitive, I've had better luck turning the AC on max which forces the radiator fans to come on and stay on. Personally I think AC on works much better than full heat from personal experience.

AutoX Z · 08-19-2014, 04:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gomer_110

While counter intuitive, I've had better luck turning the AC on max which forces the radiator fans to come on and stay on. Personally I think AC on works much better than full heat from personal experience.

Using the defrost setting runs the fans. I tested all the methods when I had my car during Texas summers and this combo worked the best. Keep the car running so you are actually circulating the oil and coolant.

Jason, VLSD is not defeatable but I never found it to be intrusive (read: it doesn't work) aside from the flashing light being distracting. The light in your video at 1:13 is something else though. I would check the manual and see what warning light is located there.

j-rho · 08-19-2014, 03:29 PM

Is there a way to turn off ELSD? Special magic handshake?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=985VnvvRFDQ
Very noticeable at 1:13-1:14

j-rho · 08-19-2014, 03:45 PM

AC on with temp knob to full hot gets 'er done. Fans slow down as temps drop below 205.

Rusty · 08-19-2014, 04:07 PM

Also for the lights. Check the brake fluid level.

j-rho · 08-19-2014, 05:21 PM

I thought it was the trip odo lighting up, but in review it's probably just the sun hitting the speedo needle.

stuy486 · 08-19-2014, 06:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by j-rho

I thought it was the trip odo lighting up, but in review it's probably just the sun hitting the speedo needle.

I've definitely noticed orange lights blinking during my runs, though I've never noticed any effect to how the car was behaving. You can see them in this video, for example at around 16s: AAA 112313 Practice Jeff - YouTube

AutoX Z · 08-19-2014, 08:49 PM

That orange light is the ELSD. If you have time to look at it during a run it is the traction control light flashing, which is why people incorrectly think you can't fully disable traction control. The red light is the rev limiter.

cjwsrt6 · 08-20-2014, 04:47 PM

Anyone autocross a convertible? I understand it would be heavier but other then that is there difference betterm the two in handling?

j-rho · 08-22-2014, 12:34 AM

I was pretty careful to not shut the car off hot - letting it continue to run to circulate oil and coolant until temps were down to ~205.

Went to do some front swaybar stuff, and found an explosion of smurf blood on the front undertray. Or maybe it was coolant.

It was all over the lower part of the radiator and frame rails too.

I know this car has a hard time staying cool, but this is just ridiculous. C'mon Nissan!

gomer_110 · 08-22-2014, 06:49 AM

Even when I was running my Z with the stock radiator I never had this issue. If I was you I'd be checking for a bad hose connection,etc. Also make sure you refill your system as this looks like it might be enough to actually cause you to be low on coolant.

14BlackCherry · 08-22-2014, 06:53 AM

My autocross runs this past weekend were in mid to upper 90 temps (3rd heat) and my oil temps never exceeded 220 degrees. We did 6 runs too which is unheard of here in the Colorado Region.

cruzthepug · 08-22-2014, 10:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 14BlackCherry

My autocross runs this past weekend were in mid to upper 90 temps (3rd heat) and my oil temps never exceeded 220 degrees. We did 6 runs too which is unheard of here in the Colorado Region.

My car was showing outside temps of 102 at this past Sundays event. Oil and water temps all stayed normal and I shut it down between runs.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

08-19-2014, 02:40 PM	#2 (permalink)
AutoX Z Enthusiast Member Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Houston, Tx Posts: 314 Drives: 370Z Base, Sport Rep Power: 16	Hotchkis is the stiffest bar. Flashing lights are most likely the light for the ELSD kicking in (car applying brakes to spinning tire). Defrost, full heat, hood open between runs. Spray the radiator if necessary. __________________ 2013 SCCA Solo National Champion VVV For Sale VVV

08-19-2014, 04:07 PM	#7 (permalink)
Rusty Ronin Samurai - Assassin Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky Age: 69 Posts: 35,361 Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M Rep Power: 2684438	Also for the lights. Check the brake fluid level. __________________ 浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

08-19-2014, 08:49 PM	#10 (permalink)
AutoX Z Enthusiast Member Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Houston, Tx Posts: 314 Drives: 370Z Base, Sport Rep Power: 16	That orange light is the ELSD. If you have time to look at it during a run it is the traction control light flashing, which is why people incorrectly think you can't fully disable traction control. The red light is the rev limiter. __________________ 2013 SCCA Solo National Champion VVV For Sale VVV

08-22-2014, 06:49 AM	#13 (permalink)
gomer_110 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Perrysburg, OH Posts: 17,992 Drives: '11 Nismo #528 GM Rep Power: 36941	Even when I was running my Z with the stock radiator I never had this issue. If I was you I'd be checking for a bad hose connection,etc. Also make sure you refill your system as this looks like it might be enough to actually cause you to be low on coolant. __________________ '11 370Z Nismo #528 Fast Intentions \| Stillen \| Motordyne \| Uprev \| CSF \| Zspeed \| Z1 Motorsports \| AST \| Swift \| SPC \| SPL \| Whiteline \| Hotchkis \| Bride \| Schroth \| Robispec \| Cusco \| Nismo \| Volk \| Forgestar \| Hoosier \| RJM '17 Titan Bone Stock

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08-18-2014, 01:31 PM	#1 (permalink)
j-rho Base Member Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: San Diego Posts: 154 Drives: 1967 Camaro Z28 Rep Power: 11	Ran my first event in the car Saturday, couple quick Q: 1. Are there any front bars out there stiffer than the Hotchkis? In the past I've usually built my own swaybars using modular components from Speedway Engineering, has anybody done something similar on a Z and have pictures of how they did it? 2. Before each run I pushed the button to make the little yellow skidmarks icon light up, but there seemed to be a lot of different lights flashing during the run. I think there was one when the revs got high, and maybe a flashing yellow one sometimes, and in watching video later, it seemed like the trip odometer section would light up and turn off at times on course. Is there any rhyme or reason to all this Christmas tree action? Are there any I should be worried about? There's not much time to look at that stuff, but if there's an important one to watch for... Car was decent, pretty floppy soft, even for a stock car. Went way to push once all leaned over, too bad they didn't provide some negative camber adjustability up front, it would be soooooooooo much better a car. Oh, it was warm (~97) out. Did two runs in short succession. Oil temp went 180->220 in one run, 220->240+ on the second. Probably couldn't have survived a third without limp mode.

08-19-2014, 03:29 PM	#5 (permalink)
j-rho Base Member Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: San Diego Posts: 154 Drives: 1967 Camaro Z28 Rep Power: 11	Is there a way to turn off ELSD? Special magic handshake? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=985VnvvRFDQ Very noticeable at 1:13-1:14

08-19-2014, 03:45 PM	#6 (permalink)
j-rho Base Member Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: San Diego Posts: 154 Drives: 1967 Camaro Z28 Rep Power: 11	AC on with temp knob to full hot gets 'er done. Fans slow down as temps drop below 205.

08-19-2014, 05:21 PM	#8 (permalink)
j-rho Base Member Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: San Diego Posts: 154 Drives: 1967 Camaro Z28 Rep Power: 11	I thought it was the trip odo lighting up, but in review it's probably just the sun hitting the speedo needle.

08-20-2014, 04:47 PM	#11 (permalink)
cjwsrt6 Enthusiast Member Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: Alabama Posts: 452 Drives: 2005 crossfire Srt6 Rep Power: 11	Anyone autocross a convertible? I understand it would be heavier but other then that is there difference betterm the two in handling?

08-22-2014, 12:34 AM	#12 (permalink)
j-rho Base Member Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: San Diego Posts: 154 Drives: 1967 Camaro Z28 Rep Power: 11	I was pretty careful to not shut the car off hot - letting it continue to run to circulate oil and coolant until temps were down to ~205. Went to do some front swaybar stuff, and found an explosion of smurf blood on the front undertray. Or maybe it was coolant. It was all over the lower part of the radiator and frame rails too. I know this car has a hard time staying cool, but this is just ridiculous. C'mon Nissan!

08-22-2014, 06:53 AM	#14 (permalink)
14BlackCherry Base Member Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Colorado Age: 37 Posts: 178 Drives: 14 Nissan 370z BC M6 Rep Power: 11	My autocross runs this past weekend were in mid to upper 90 temps (3rd heat) and my oil temps never exceeded 220 degrees. We did 6 runs too which is unheard of here in the Colorado Region.