V6 vs. V8 to Pull The Z

MightyBobo · 11-05-2012, 03:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by marks370z

Hmmm, if you are correct, then I stand corrected and should reconsider what i'm doing. haha.

I believe Im correct. It is a heavy duty single axle, no doubt, but a single axle is NOT recommended for towing vehicles. I'd DEFINITELY recommend going with this option, however:

Tandem or Two-axle Aluminum Utility Trailer

Not only is it within your weight limit still, but you get electric brakes and a breakaway kit. FAR safer to tow with. Heavier than your other option, but a far more effective towing solution, especially when going downhill

marks370z · 11-05-2012, 03:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MightyBobo

I believe Im correct. It is a heavy duty single axle, no doubt, but a single axle is NOT recommended for towing vehicles. I'd DEFINITELY recommend going with this option, however:

Tandem or Two-axle Aluminum Utility Trailer

Not only is it within your weight limit still, but you get electric brakes and a breakaway kit. FAR safer to tow with. Heavier than your other option, but a far more effective towing solution, especially when going downhill

Definitely a better choice. Thanks.

nabenson · 11-05-2012, 03:07 PM

Unless you're just doing low-speed, around-town kinds of towing, a single-axle should be avoided in general. Double-axle trailers

- can carry more
- are more stable at all speeds
- give you an extra chance at making it to your destination if you have a blow-out

Towing a car on a single-axle is really asking for trouble.

DR_ · 11-05-2012, 03:52 PM

I am sure you could upgrade the axle to 5000 lbs. however most states require brakes on car trailers. I highly recommend electronic trailer brakes and a good brake controller.
Since you are so close to maximum you really need a load distribution hitch.
Single axle trailers sway really badly but with a load distribution hitch and sway control it problably would be managable.
I had a custom 16" 2 axle trailer made as I wanted some pretty specific stuff.
I have divided garage stalls and I wanted to be able to put the trailer in the garage so I had them make it as wide as possible while still fitting, which was 93". Typical car trailers are 102" wide.
I had removable trailer fenders put on both sides.
I had rollers put on the back so it would not bottom out going down my driveway.
I had LED lights put on.
I had 7' ramps instead of the typical 4-6' ramps
The trailer came out to be 1500 lbs which is not much more than the same size aluminum
The price was $2200 which is about half what a comparable aluminum would be.

MightyBobo · 11-05-2012, 04:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by motaboata

I dont own her no more cant post the photos... I miss her but dont miss the payment

That seems like a hell of a price man.

Personally I'd like to go aluminum since I only have the 5.3 liter Silverado and I'd like to lessen my load as much as possible. These UHauls are so heavy...

Sent from my Galaxy S3

BGTV8 · 11-05-2012, 04:34 PM

Sway = not enoughball weight, opr possibly gross mass of trailer and load is uot of proportion to the tow-car weight.

A good rule of thumb is that the weight of the vehicle doing the towing ought to be about half the comined weight of tow vehicle, trailer and trailer load.

I tow with a 5.4 litre Ford V8 utility - 550 Nm of torque and1700kg dry weight (the vehicle type is really only seen in Oz) - a bit like a low slung C1500 or F150, and will be upgrading to a Nissan Navara with 3-litre twin turbo diesel (650Nm of torque) next year.

Trailer weighs 700Kg and race car weighs 1000kg and we also carry 70kg of wheels/tyres as well as around a 100Kg of tools and other spares.

I run the tow car on propane with a 140 litre tank in the tub and that gives me 18 litres/100kms when towing, with a 600km range.

I have towed with a 4-litre straight 6 but they really don't have the torque to maintain a reasonable speed and work pretty hard on the hills.

marks370z · 11-05-2012, 04:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DR_

I am sure you could upgrade the axle to 5000 lbs. however most states require brakes on car trailers. I highly recommend electronic trailer brakes and a good brake controller.
Since you are so close to maximum you really need a load distribution hitch.
Single axle trailers sway really badly but with a load distribution hitch and sway control it problably would be managable.
I had a custom 16" 2 axle trailer made as I wanted some pretty specific stuff.
I have divided garage stalls and I wanted to be able to put the trailer in the garage so I had them make it as wide as possible while still fitting, which was 93". Typical car trailers are 102" wide.
I had removable trailer fenders put on both sides.
I had rollers put on the back so it would not bottom out going down my driveway.
I had LED lights put on.
I had 7' ramps instead of the typical 4-6' ramps
The trailer came out to be 1500 lbs which is not much more than the same size aluminum
The price was $2200 which is about half what a comparable aluminum would be.

If you don't mind me asking, who did you have make it? Do they have a site?

Mike · 11-05-2012, 04:48 PM

If anyone is shopping for a trailer, mine is a little pricey, but I would be willing to sell it for $5000, obo. Its a 2008 model 20' steel Texas Rollback trailer, about the easiest loading trailer in the world. I paid $6000 new for it January of 2010, and recently put new tires and powdercoated the wheels. Also added a tool box and spare tire to it since purchasing.

Its similar to this one:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dove6z_OLHk

its a great trailer, but I really want an enclosed one so I can store the car in it and free up parking space in the garage, plus also get rid of my side windows.

MightyBobo · 11-05-2012, 08:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike

If anyone is shopping for a trailer, mine is a little pricey, but I would be willing to sell it for $5000, obo. Its a 2008 model 20' steel Texas Rollback trailer, about the easiest loading trailer in the world. I paid $6000 new for it January of 2010, and recently put new tires and powdercoated the wheels. Also added a tool box and spare tire to it since purchasing.

Its similar to this one:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dove6z_OLHk

its a great trailer, but I really want an enclosed one so I can store the car in it and free up parking space in the garage, plus also get rid of my side windows.

That trailer is wicked, dude...

11-05-2012, 03:52 PM	#49 (permalink)
DR_ Track Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Dallas Posts: 981 Drives: Touring/Sport M6 PG Rep Power: 17	I am sure you could upgrade the axle to 5000 lbs. however most states require brakes on car trailers. I highly recommend electronic trailer brakes and a good brake controller. Since you are so close to maximum you really need a load distribution hitch. Single axle trailers sway really badly but with a load distribution hitch and sway control it problably would be managable. I had a custom 16" 2 axle trailer made as I wanted some pretty specific stuff. I have divided garage stalls and I wanted to be able to put the trailer in the garage so I had them make it as wide as possible while still fitting, which was 93". Typical car trailers are 102" wide. I had removable trailer fenders put on both sides. I had rollers put on the back so it would not bottom out going down my driveway. I had LED lights put on. I had 7' ramps instead of the typical 4-6' ramps The trailer came out to be 1500 lbs which is not much more than the same size aluminum The price was $2200 which is about half what a comparable aluminum would be. Last edited by DR_; 11-05-2012 at 03:54 PM.

11-05-2012, 04:48 PM	#53 (permalink)
Mike The370Z.com Sponsor Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Loganville, GA Posts: 5,944 Drives: 370z Rep Power: 2186	If anyone is shopping for a trailer, mine is a little pricey, but I would be willing to sell it for $5000, obo. Its a 2008 model 20' steel Texas Rollback trailer, about the easiest loading trailer in the world. I paid $6000 new for it January of 2010, and recently put new tires and powdercoated the wheels. Also added a tool box and spare tire to it since purchasing. Its similar to this one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dove6z_OLHk its a great trailer, but I really want an enclosed one so I can store the car in it and free up parking space in the garage, plus also get rid of my side windows. __________________ NISSAN: 75 280Z / 86 300ZX GLL /87 Sentra SE / 03 350Z / 23 Z Porsche: 93 968 / 23 Macan GTS / 93 968

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11-05-2012, 03:07 PM	#48 (permalink)
nabenson Base Member Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Dallas, TX Posts: 103 Drives: 10 370z Nismo PW M6 Rep Power: 15	Unless you're just doing low-speed, around-town kinds of towing, a single-axle should be avoided in general. Double-axle trailers - can carry more - are more stable at all speeds - give you an extra chance at making it to your destination if you have a blow-out Towing a car on a single-axle is really asking for trouble.

11-05-2012, 04:34 PM	#51 (permalink)
BGTV8 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: 03350 Australia Posts: 1,514 Drives: 09 Nissan 370Z M6 Rep Power: 39973	Sway = not enoughball weight, opr possibly gross mass of trailer and load is uot of proportion to the tow-car weight. A good rule of thumb is that the weight of the vehicle doing the towing ought to be about half the comined weight of tow vehicle, trailer and trailer load. I tow with a 5.4 litre Ford V8 utility - 550 Nm of torque and1700kg dry weight (the vehicle type is really only seen in Oz) - a bit like a low slung C1500 or F150, and will be upgrading to a Nissan Navara with 3-litre twin turbo diesel (650Nm of torque) next year. Trailer weighs 700Kg and race car weighs 1000kg and we also carry 70kg of wheels/tyres as well as around a 100Kg of tools and other spares. I run the tow car on propane with a 140 litre tank in the tub and that gives me 18 litres/100kms when towing, with a 600km range. I have towed with a 4-litre straight 6 but they really don't have the torque to maintain a reasonable speed and work pretty hard on the hills.