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Track Day Best Practices - MUST READ

For any of you who have questions about what to do for your first HPDE / Track Day, please read the following: ---------------------------------------------------------- Brakes The OEM pads will technically function

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Old 09-04-2012, 10:38 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Exclamation Track Day Best Practices - MUST READ

For any of you who have questions about what to do for your first HPDE / Track Day, please read the following:
----------------------------------------------------------
Brakes
  • The OEM pads will technically function for a track day... but for the love of god just buy Carbotech pads from Z1 Motorsports.
  • Recommendation:
    • Front: Carbotech XP10
    • Rear: Carbotech XP8
  • NOTE: I ran with Front XP8 pads... the OEM Rear pads were down to the backing plate after 1/2 day of lapping. I.E. get rear track pads.
----------------------------------------------------------
Brake Fluid
  • You must Must MUST, flush your entire brake system with nothing other than Motul RBF600 brake fluid.
  • MISTAKE: I used Superblue fluid and it boiled on my 1st track day (pedal to the floor / scared to death / don't use it!!!)
----------------------------------------------------------
Tires
  • The OEM tires are great for beginner / intermediate track drivers.
  • Start all 4 tires at approx ~ 32 psi (cold temp)
  • Hot temperature, measured when JUST off a session, should be closer to 38 psi
----------------------------------------------------------
Suspension
  • It ain't broken... don't fix it.
  • The OEM suspension is FINE unless you plan on ONLY tracking your car
  • You do not need extra camber in the front or rear.
  • My tires wore evenly with the stock alignment, not to mention that they didn't wear that much. GO Bridgestones!
----------------------------------------------------------
Interior
  • Remove anything that isn't bolted down. Spare tire, rear tools, floor mats, goodies from center console and glove box, EVERYTHING.
----------------------------------------------------------
Engine
  • An oil cooler is REQUIRED, unless you want to try out limp-mode. My 25 row Z1 oil cooler worked perfectly and I didn't "hold back" at all when on the track. 20 min sessions Ambient temp = 80f Max Oil Temp = 240f
----------------------------------------------------------
After EACH run
  1. Park the car
    • Don't set the parking brake.
    • The brake pads will fuse themselves to a hot rotor
    • Don't set the parking brake.
  2. Pop the hood (helps engine cool down)
  3. Check tire pressures
    • Tire Pressure can increase +10psi just from the heat.
    • Make sure the tire pressure is measured RIGHT after you park the car for the most accurate reading.
    • Wear gloves when checking tire pressures, my valve stem cap melted a little from the brake heat. H O T.
    • I tried to keep a max pressure of 40psi.
    • Others: feel free to chime in here for ideal hot pressures.
  4. Fill up your gas tank after each run.
    • YES, after each one.
    • You will get fuel starvation in right hand turns otherwise.
----------------------------------------------------------

Wear Items to inspect from track duty

Brake Pads
- Q: Do I have enough brake pad for this track day?
- A: If the backing plate of the brake pad is "thicker" than the remaining pad material = Buy new brake pads.
  • Wheels studs - mine (ARP) are lifed @ 2 years .. wheel nuts at the same time - I don't use ali nuts - if you do, they need to be replaced every "n" times they are torqued where N is ~20-30
  • Coolant hoses are replaced @ 3 years
  • Calipers ought not need replacement, but certainly service them with replacement seal kit and new pistons.
  • You should have braided lines already, replace if the braiding has fretted or appears worn/frayed
  • Check backlash in the diff - may need to replace the crushable spacer - if so, do pinion and carrier bearings plus seals as well
  • Check state of CV joints in rear axles - also splines into drive flange/rear hub
  • Check state of front and rear wheel bearings
  • Check state of ball joints in front suspension
  • Check steering tie rod ends
  • Check steering rack mounts - they have been known to develop cracks especially if you like "yumping" kerbs
  • Check state of all suspension bushes - if you have replacement bushes (SPL etc), check for wear
  • Check state of serpentine belt/accessory drive belts
  • Check wheels "carefully" for cracks against the hub/centre and where spokes join the wheel barrel, and/or rim edge damage
  • Change all fluids (brake, clutch, engine, gearbox and diff)


Your thoughts are welcome, and will be incorporated into this thread, should i find them worthy :-)
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Last edited by osbornsm; 09-10-2015 at 02:03 PM.
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Old 09-04-2012, 10:45 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Great post for first-timer track tips. Can't express enough on the brake fluid as that happened to me this last Friday but luckily I was in the pits when the brake pedal hit the floor, not on the track.

I've never had a problem with fuel starvation however, I'm guessing that's largely dependent on track formation and car setup (i.e. with stock tires/suspension I don't get enough G's on our tracks to encounter it).
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Old 09-04-2012, 12:24 PM   #3 (permalink)
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How noisy/dusty are xp8s for daily driving?
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Old 09-04-2012, 03:18 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brucelidat View Post
How noisy/dusty are xp8s for daily driving?
Expect 5-7x the dust you get with the stock pads.

Little bit of noise after 3k at really light breaking at traffic lights. Not bad enough to turn heads if you try to keep them quiet.
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Old 09-04-2012, 10:10 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brucelidat View Post
How noisy/dusty are xp8s for daily driving?
if you're worried about dust with track oriented brake pads for daily driving, id simply suggest you swap them out between the track pads and daily pads. the pad swap on our cars is SO easy.

its as simple as lifting the car, removing the wheel, turning the steering wheel so you have more room, then remove 2 cotter pins, remove the 2 retaining bars and the retaining clip. voila, your pads are free! shouldnt take you more than 20-30min per side!
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Old 09-04-2012, 10:45 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chops View Post
if you're worried about dust with track oriented brake pads for daily driving, id simply suggest you swap them out between the track pads and daily pads. the pad swap on our cars is SO easy.

its as simple as lifting the car, removing the wheel, turning the steering wheel so you have more room, then remove 2 cotter pins, remove the 2 retaining bars and the retaining clip. voila, your pads are free! shouldnt take you more than 20-30min per side!
The XP8 is slightly quieter, but really annoying. It also releases a nasty dust that is very hard to clean. My wheels are pitted now because of it

Carbotech XP10 brakes - YouTube
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Old 09-05-2012, 12:41 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Take the tow hook out of your trunk (when you pull the tools) and PUT IT ON YOUR CAR! There's a removable plate in your grill and it just screws in. Don't be that guy that's beached for 3-4 sessions because there wasn't a tow hook and you went shell collecting... they WILL leave you out there, we will all point and laugh, and you will sit.. there's no reimbursement for dumbsh*ttery!
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Old 09-04-2012, 12:30 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Thats a really good post, another great brake fluid is Torque RT700.
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Old 09-04-2012, 12:41 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Awesome info man.
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Old 09-04-2012, 12:55 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Great post. This should be stickied in the Track / Autocross / Drifting / Dragstrip section.
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Old 09-04-2012, 01:41 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Great great write up man! Just what people should look out for. Great advice on the breaks specially. This is so important and will keep you safe while enjoying your hobby.

You should add in the "after each run section" Keep your car on for 10-15 minutes to bring back down all fluid temperatures back to normal operating temp before turning off
ignition.
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Old 09-04-2012, 03:20 PM   #12 (permalink)
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dont forget the clutch fluid you will boil that too, just use the same fluid u upgrade with the brakes and should be all good! If you track with synchro rev on you will eventually boil it WAY sooner.
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Old 09-04-2012, 10:38 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by martin82 View Post
dont forget the clutch fluid you will boil that too, just use the same fluid u upgrade with the brakes and should be all good! If you track with synchro rev on you will eventually boil it WAY sooner.
Very true.
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Old 09-04-2012, 03:57 PM   #14 (permalink)
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ATE Gold and Superblue (just color difference) should work as well. I see lots of guys using it in other vehicles at the track without issue, maybe you had a one-off problem there?

I haven't personally put it in mine yet, but I was planning to try it on my next flush during October. Been running RBF600 so far without issue, but I like the idea of being able to swap colors on flush. I guess I'll report back for sure in Nov
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Old 09-04-2012, 04:09 PM   #15 (permalink)
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ate is garbage. go search on their failure rate
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