Track Day Best Practices - MUST READ

Sh0velMan · 01-29-2014, 08:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by synolimit

Is a dry 23 degrees really worth it? The wets actually 1 degree lower. To me, for price, the 600 seems better.

The man is talking sense .

660 isn't worth it unless you are a race team and flush/bleed every time you go to the track, and can afford the added cost.

synolimit · 01-29-2014, 09:56 AM

Never mind, just googled the difference. Well still. 23 degrees seems very low to me when we are talking about 600 degrees. I can't see a track car teetering right on that line where 23 degrees makes or "brakes" you. Get it? Brakes you? Haha

Cost aside whats wet vs dry? I mean brake fluid is wet no? Isn't that the important number to watch? Again the 600 is 1 degree better than the 660 anyways in the wet.

wstar · 01-29-2014, 10:00 AM

Wet is when the brake fluid is contaminated with water, which inevitably happens over time, unless you only run in perfectly dry conditions and low humidity and swap all the fluid just before every race weekend or something. Bleeding regularly helps, but for those not on infinite time+money budgets for swapping brake fluid the wet temp is important.

Sh0velMan · 01-29-2014, 10:06 AM

Like he says, wet is above a certain percentage of water absorbed by the fluid. I confess I don't know at what percentage the fluid is considered 'wet' off the top of my head.

Brake fluid is hygroscopic, that means it actively absorbs water out of the air. For a track car, anything above 1% water content is usually enough to warrant a flush and refill.

Anything above 4% is dangerous, even for a street car.

GSS138 · 01-29-2014, 10:08 AM

I use 600 in my clutch, but I race in the desert and I do bleed them a lot, whether they need it or not. Socal and the deserts north and east of here are obviously very very arid. A lot of the of the GTR guys have told me just to switch to Endless fluid for all the reasons you guys are talking about, but so far it has been a non issue.

wstar · 01-29-2014, 10:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sh0velMan

hydroscopic

Hygroscopic !

Sh0velMan · 01-29-2014, 10:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wstar

Hygroscopic !

Shut up brainiac

osbornsm · 01-29-2014, 10:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wstar

Hygroscopic !

That's how you grow plants in your closet right??

newtonova822 · 05-18-2014, 01:18 PM

Any suggestions on stainless steel bake lines??

MightyBobo · 05-18-2014, 06:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by newtonova822

Any suggestions on stainless steel bake lines??

Goodridge.

Sent from my Nexus 5

synolimit · 05-18-2014, 06:37 PM

Z1 premium

carlitos_370z · 05-19-2014, 07:28 AM

Z1 SS brake lines with the motul brake fluid on my car and works great

wstar · 05-19-2014, 09:25 AM

There are basically two "styles" of replacement SS brake line you can go with. The OEM-style ones retain all of the connections and mounting points of the originals (it's like, 2 little lines attached to connection blocks that screw down to the suspension). Then there's the straight kind that are just a single line of the correct length. In Z1's store, "premium" is OEM-style and the not-premium is the single-line kind. If you do the OEM ones you don't have to change anything but the lines. The straight ones have fewer connections and allow you to remove a few brackets and things to dump a little weight from the front suspension. That's what I'm running, but I had to put some plastic shields on my coilovers to make sure the threads on the coilover didn't try to rub the brake lines.

MightyBobo · 05-19-2014, 11:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wstar

There are basically two "styles" of replacement SS brake line you can go with. The OEM-style ones retain all of the connections and mounting points of the originals (it's like, 2 little lines attached to connection blocks that screw down to the suspension). Then there's the straight kind that are just a single line of the correct length. In Z1's store, "premium" is OEM-style and the not-premium is the single-line kind. If you do the OEM ones you don't have to change anything but the lines. The straight ones have fewer connections and allow you to remove a few brackets and things to dump a little weight from the front suspension. That's what I'm running, but I had to put some plastic shields on my coilovers to make sure the threads on the coilover didn't try to rub the brake lines.

Wussy, just let 'em rub. A little Russian Roulette never hurt anyone...

Also, nice avatar pic - looks like CoA?

wstar · 05-19-2014, 11:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MightyBobo

Wussy, just let 'em rub. A little Russian Roulette never hurt anyone...

Also, nice avatar pic - looks like CoA?

Yeah I got a CD full of pics from the photographers at the last CotA event. That track is amazing. I put a few in an album here: Nissan 370Z Forum - wstar's Album: COTA pics

01-29-2014, 09:56 AM	#167 (permalink)
synolimit A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2013 Location: Columbus, OH Posts: 5,051 Drives: 2013 Silver 370z Rep Power: 3389	Never mind, just googled the difference. Well still. 23 degrees seems very low to me when we are talking about 600 degrees. I can't see a track car teetering right on that line where 23 degrees makes or "brakes" you. Get it? Brakes you? Haha Cost aside whats wet vs dry? I mean brake fluid is wet no? Isn't that the important number to watch? Again the 600 is 1 degree better than the 660 anyways in the wet. __________________ 13 370z- Last edited by synolimit; 01-29-2014 at 10:00 AM.

01-29-2014, 10:00 AM	#168 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3594	Wet is when the brake fluid is contaminated with water, which inevitably happens over time, unless you only run in perfectly dry conditions and low humidity and swap all the fluid just before every race weekend or something. Bleeding regularly helps, but for those not on infinite time+money budgets for swapping brake fluid the wet temp is important. __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

01-29-2014, 10:06 AM	#169 (permalink)
Sh0velMan A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Dallas/Ft.Worth Posts: 3,349 Drives: Noisily. Rep Power: 20	Like he says, wet is above a certain percentage of water absorbed by the fluid. I confess I don't know at what percentage the fluid is considered 'wet' off the top of my head. Brake fluid is hygroscopic, that means it actively absorbs water out of the air. For a track car, anything above 1% water content is usually enough to warrant a flush and refill. Anything above 4% is dangerous, even for a street car. __________________ Buy My Car! \| Build Thread Last edited by Sh0velMan; 01-29-2014 at 10:16 AM. Reason: Edited spelling to appease spelling bee champ WSTAR

01-29-2014, 10:08 AM	#170 (permalink)
GSS138 Track Member Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Mission Viejo, CA Posts: 769 Drives: '12 370Z 6M Sport Rep Power: 13	I use 600 in my clutch, but I race in the desert and I do bleed them a lot, whether they need it or not. Socal and the deserts north and east of here are obviously very very arid. A lot of the of the GTR guys have told me just to switch to Endless fluid for all the reasons you guys are talking about, but so far it has been a non issue. __________________ Current Mods: Vorpal Weapon +5.

05-18-2014, 01:18 PM	#174 (permalink)
newtonova822 Base Member Join Date: May 2014 Location: No Va Posts: 70 Drives: 2014-370Z-White_Manu Rep Power: 11	brake line upgrades? Any suggestions on stainless steel bake lines??

05-18-2014, 06:37 PM	#176 (permalink)
synolimit A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2013 Location: Columbus, OH Posts: 5,051 Drives: 2013 Silver 370z Rep Power: 3389	Z1 premium __________________ 13 370z-

05-19-2014, 07:28 AM	#177 (permalink)
carlitos_370z A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: Puerto Rico Posts: 7,157 Drives: 13 Nissan 370Z SP M6 Rep Power: 7586	Z1 SS brake lines with the motul brake fluid on my car and works great

05-19-2014, 09:25 AM	#178 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3594	There are basically two "styles" of replacement SS brake line you can go with. The OEM-style ones retain all of the connections and mounting points of the originals (it's like, 2 little lines attached to connection blocks that screw down to the suspension). Then there's the straight kind that are just a single line of the correct length. In Z1's store, "premium" is OEM-style and the not-premium is the single-line kind. If you do the OEM ones you don't have to change anything but the lines. The straight ones have fewer connections and allow you to remove a few brackets and things to dump a little weight from the front suspension. That's what I'm running, but I had to put some plastic shields on my coilovers to make sure the threads on the coilover didn't try to rub the brake lines. carlitos_370z likes this. __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

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