Track Day Best Practices - MUST READ

Zxces50 · 09-05-2012, 05:17 PM

Helpful Check list. Usually last minute getting ready so put this list togehter to make sure I leave home with everything I need. I added some track stuff/ "day of" as it might be helpful to first timer. (PDF & Word if you wnat to custom)

martin82 · 09-05-2012, 05:25 PM

nice^

wstar · 09-05-2012, 07:58 PM

Nice PDF. I'd suggest recommending a fuller tank though (I've been topping up every other session, I only get like 2-3 dots down between refills), and putting the tire pressure check further up the list (e.g. pop hood if you want first, then go straight for the tires before they cool off, then worry about other things). I don't think I'd roll out on the stock fuel system with even 3/4 tank, risky for fuel cut.

Zxces50 · 09-05-2012, 08:58 PM

Agree - fuel is tricky and more is better. Depends on track config if can get a couple dots below 3/4. Was at Pocono this past weekend and had problems on super speedway section with cutout but was at 2/3 tank - was last session of day (already filled it twice) and decided to just pit and call it a day. But on other tracks have gotten away with two sessions before top off

RN SHARK · 09-06-2012, 01:21 PM

OP, your valve stem caps won't melt if you just take them off before racing.
Also, I know the Motul660 is great fluid, but had a question. Is the AP racing 5.1 fluid garbage for the track?

spearfish25 · 09-06-2012, 10:07 PM

The e-brake on the Z is a drum type that expands outward inside the hubs. It won't mess with your calipers or rotors if you pull it after run sessions.

I've tracked with both ATE super blue and RBF600. I prefer the RBF600 because the superblue stains everything. But I haven't boiled the brakes with either one. If you're having lots of issues with boiling your fluid despite having changed the fluid and pads, evaluate your braking technique. If you 'street brake' and drag the brakes to gradually slow down, you'll overheat them. Work on 'track braking' which is rolling smoothly and quickly into 100% braking force (or close to 100%) and then rolling back off as you're turning in. Less overall time on the brakes = more time for them to be cooling for the same kinetic energy dissipated.

BGTV8 · 09-06-2012, 10:17 PM

Consider adding a wheel chock to your gear/tool bag. I have a piece of 40mm square timber that is 250mm long that lives in the plastic box that contains spare brakefluid, pads, some tools etc .... and if the pit area is on a slight slope, I chock the car so I don't need to use the parking brake.

I also carry a couple of spare "P" clips that secure the dowel pins that retain the pads (on the Akebono calipers). I bent one once and snapped it trying to straighten it and had to fabricate a retainer using some wire I had in the bottom of my bits and pieces box. Is a lot simpler when you have the proper part.

cossie1600 · 09-06-2012, 10:27 PM

If you are going to be pumping gas off the stupid red bottles, you need to get yourself one of these

Random must have garage tool, gas pump - YouTube

wstar · 09-06-2012, 11:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spearfish25

The e-brake on the Z is a drum type that expands outward inside the hubs. It won't mess with your calipers or rotors if you pull it after run sessions.

But they can melt in place and sieze, that's the big concern. If your rear brakes are super hot and you pull that handle and park it while it cools, you could find your parking brake shoes glued/melted to the drum.

ResIpsa · 09-07-2012, 07:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cossie1600

ate is garbage. go search on their failure rate

+1

red6spd · 09-07-2012, 08:35 AM

Good thread guys keep the info coming.

ResIpsa · 09-07-2012, 02:15 PM

When you open your hood after getting off the track make sure that you also take off the black plastic master cylinder compartment cover.

A clutch cylinder failure at my last track event got me doing some investigative testing (I am preparing to post a thread on my findings later this week). Even with normal street driving, I have measured 10 to 20 degree temperature spikes in the master cylinder compartment after turning off the car. I can only imagine how much the temperature would rise after getting off the track. However, taking off the cover prevents these spikes.

Also, if you drive to and from the track, you may want to practice driving without using your clutch. Don’t overdo it; just practice enough so that you understand the basic principles (which I won’t go into here) of clutch-less shifting. This is a skill that you will hopefully never use.

However, this may save you one day if you find yourself stranded in an empty paddock with no ability to disengage the clutch. It did for me…

threeseventy · 09-07-2012, 02:51 PM

^ great information. I've had clutchlock and it's not fun. "Resp" added

spearfish25 · 09-07-2012, 05:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wstar

But they can melt in place and sieze, that's the big concern. If your rear brakes are super hot and you pull that handle and park it while it cools, you could find your parking brake shoes glued/melted to the drum.

LOL...mine doesn't hold my car well anyway so I'm not concerned!

JB1 · 09-08-2012, 12:05 AM

Word of caution on the wheel chocks, remember to move them out of the way before you move the car. Even if you back away from them they might be sticking to the hot and soft tires, causing them to be dragged into your wheel well and potentially causing damage there. This of course mainly when you use small, light weight ones.

09-05-2012, 07:58 PM	#33 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3594	Nice PDF. I'd suggest recommending a fuller tank though (I've been topping up every other session, I only get like 2-3 dots down between refills), and putting the tire pressure check further up the list (e.g. pop hood if you want first, then go straight for the tires before they cool off, then worry about other things). I don't think I'd roll out on the stock fuel system with even 3/4 tank, risky for fuel cut. __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

09-06-2012, 01:21 PM	#35 (permalink)
RN SHARK Track Member Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Wake Forest, NC Age: 44 Posts: 618 Drives: 09 370Z, 14 SRT GC Rep Power: 35	OP, your valve stem caps won't melt if you just take them off before racing. Also, I know the Motul660 is great fluid, but had a question. Is the AP racing 5.1 fluid garbage for the track? __________________ ___________ '09 6sp/Z1/PowerTrix/SPL/Swift/SRP/Whiteline/F.I.LTH&CBE/UpRev by Seb/CJM/Stillen/Ings+1/RJM/TrackSpec/Sparco/Motul/Wavetrac/Coolerworx/Verus/CraftSquare '14 SRT Grand Cherokee; '08 TL Type-S

09-06-2012, 10:07 PM	#36 (permalink)
spearfish25 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Naples, FL Posts: 4,117 Drives: to work Rep Power: 1856	The e-brake on the Z is a drum type that expands outward inside the hubs. It won't mess with your calipers or rotors if you pull it after run sessions. I've tracked with both ATE super blue and RBF600. I prefer the RBF600 because the superblue stains everything. But I haven't boiled the brakes with either one. If you're having lots of issues with boiling your fluid despite having changed the fluid and pads, evaluate your braking technique. If you 'street brake' and drag the brakes to gradually slow down, you'll overheat them. Work on 'track braking' which is rolling smoothly and quickly into 100% braking force (or close to 100%) and then rolling back off as you're turning in. Less overall time on the brakes = more time for them to be cooling for the same kinetic energy dissipated. JARblue and chknhawk like this. __________________ 2013 Cadillac V-Wagon, RIP Z

09-07-2012, 08:35 AM	#41 (permalink)
red6spd A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Long Island NY Posts: 3,277 Drives: 2010 Z Coupe M6 SPT Rep Power: 21	Good thread guys keep the info coming. __________________ 2010 Base+Sport 6spd: Stillen G3, FI Non-Resonated CBE, FI Non-Resonated Test Pipes, UpRev Tuned, Custom 24R Oil Cooler, JDM Rear Fog-OEM Harness. ???Whp ???WTQ (Will find out come spring time)

09-07-2012, 02:15 PM	#42 (permalink)
ResIpsa Track Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Virginia Posts: 564 Drives: 09 RACING HEN Rep Power: 338	Master Cylinder Compartment Cover When you open your hood after getting off the track make sure that you also take off the black plastic master cylinder compartment cover. A clutch cylinder failure at my last track event got me doing some investigative testing (I am preparing to post a thread on my findings later this week). Even with normal street driving, I have measured 10 to 20 degree temperature spikes in the master cylinder compartment after turning off the car. I can only imagine how much the temperature would rise after getting off the track. However, taking off the cover prevents these spikes. Also, if you drive to and from the track, you may want to practice driving without using your clutch. Don’t overdo it; just practice enough so that you understand the basic principles (which I won’t go into here) of clutch-less shifting. This is a skill that you will hopefully never use. However, this may save you one day if you find yourself stranded in an empty paddock with no ability to disengage the clutch. It did for me… __________________ The Reed Law Firm; Michael Fasano VA Attorney and Counselor at Law: A Virginia Traffic, Criminal, and Family Lawyer.https://reedlawva.com/

09-05-2012, 05:25 PM	#32 (permalink)
martin82 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: los angeles Posts: 2,636 Drives: 12 Nissan 370Z MB M6 Rep Power: 20	nice^

09-05-2012, 08:58 PM	#34 (permalink)
Zxces50 Base Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Boston, MA Posts: 208 Drives: 15 C7 Stingray Z51 Rep Power: 16	Agree - fuel is tricky and more is better. Depends on track config if can get a couple dots below 3/4. Was at Pocono this past weekend and had problems on super speedway section with cutout but was at 2/3 tank - was last session of day (already filled it twice) and decided to just pit and call it a day. But on other tracks have gotten away with two sessions before top off

09-06-2012, 10:17 PM	#37 (permalink)
BGTV8 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: 03350 Australia Posts: 1,514 Drives: 09 Nissan 370Z M6 Rep Power: 39973	Consider adding a wheel chock to your gear/tool bag. I have a piece of 40mm square timber that is 250mm long that lives in the plastic box that contains spare brakefluid, pads, some tools etc .... and if the pit area is on a slight slope, I chock the car so I don't need to use the parking brake. I also carry a couple of spare "P" clips that secure the dowel pins that retain the pads (on the Akebono calipers). I bent one once and snapped it trying to straighten it and had to fabricate a retainer using some wire I had in the bottom of my bits and pieces box. Is a lot simpler when you have the proper part.

09-06-2012, 10:27 PM	#38 (permalink)
cossie1600 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: californee way Posts: 5,380 Drives: 370, Leaf Rep Power: 30	If you are going to be pumping gas off the stupid red bottles, you need to get yourself one of these Random must have garage tool, gas pump - YouTube

09-07-2012, 02:51 PM	#43 (permalink)
threeseventy Track Member Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Huntington Beach, CA Posts: 600 Drives: Opinion Rep Power: 15	^ great information. I've had clutchlock and it's not fun. "Resp" added

09-08-2012, 12:05 AM	#45 (permalink)
JB1 Track Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Chicagoland Posts: 748 Drives: 09 Nissan 370Z sold Rep Power: 17	Word of caution on the wheel chocks, remember to move them out of the way before you move the car. Even if you back away from them they might be sticking to the hot and soft tires, causing them to be dragged into your wheel well and potentially causing damage there. This of course mainly when you use small, light weight ones. KapitalZ likes this. __________________ Black Fangs // Black rear Valance // Berk CBE // COBB post MAF tubes // K&N drop in filters // Setrab Oil Cooler // Stillen Sway bars // Z1 SS brake lines // Stillen brake cooling kit // Harness bar //

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