Helpful Check list. Usually last minute getting ready so put this list togehter to make sure I leave home with everything I need. I added some track stuff/ "day of" as it might be helpful to first timer. (PDF & Word if you wnat to custom)

nice^

Nice PDF. I'd suggest recommending a fuller tank though (I've been topping up every other session, I only get like 2-3 dots down between refills), and putting the tire pressure check further up the list (e.g. pop hood if you want first, then go straight for the tires before they cool off, then worry about other things). I don't think I'd roll out on the stock fuel system with even 3/4 tank, risky for fuel cut.

Agree - fuel is tricky and more is better. Depends on track config if can get a couple dots below 3/4. Was at Pocono this past weekend and had problems on super speedway section with cutout but was at 2/3 tank - was last session of day (already filled it twice) and decided to just pit and call it a day. But on other tracks have gotten away with two sessions before top off

OP, your valve stem caps won't melt if you just take them off before racing.
Also, I know the Motul660 is great fluid, but had a question. Is the AP racing 5.1 fluid garbage for the track?

The e-brake on the Z is a drum type that expands outward inside the hubs. It won't mess with your calipers or rotors if you pull it after run sessions.

I've tracked with both ATE super blue and RBF600. I prefer the RBF600 because the superblue stains everything. But I haven't boiled the brakes with either one. If you're having lots of issues with boiling your fluid despite having changed the fluid and pads, evaluate your braking technique. If you 'street brake' and drag the brakes to gradually slow down, you'll overheat them. Work on 'track braking' which is rolling smoothly and quickly into 100% braking force (or close to 100%) and then rolling back off as you're turning in. Less overall time on the brakes = more time for them to be cooling for the same kinetic energy dissipated.

Consider adding a wheel chock to your gear/tool bag. I have a piece of 40mm square timber that is 250mm long that lives in the plastic box that contains spare brakefluid, pads, some tools etc .... and if the pit area is on a slight slope, I chock the car so I don't need to use the parking brake.

I also carry a couple of spare "P" clips that secure the dowel pins that retain the pads (on the Akebono calipers). I bent one once and snapped it trying to straighten it and had to fabricate a retainer using some wire I had in the bottom of my bits and pieces box. Is a lot simpler when you have the proper part.

If you are going to be pumping gas off the stupid red bottles, you need to get yourself one of these

Random must have garage tool, gas pump - YouTube

But they can melt in place and sieze, that's the big concern. If your rear brakes are super hot and you pull that handle and park it while it cools, you could find your parking brake shoes glued/melted to the drum.

+1

Good thread guys keep the info coming.

Master Cylinder Compartment Cover
 

When you open your hood after getting off the track make sure that you also take off the black plastic master cylinder compartment cover.

A clutch cylinder failure at my last track event got me doing some investigative testing (I am preparing to post a thread on my findings later this week). Even with normal street driving, I have measured 10 to 20 degree temperature spikes in the master cylinder compartment after turning off the car. I can only imagine how much the temperature would rise after getting off the track. However, taking off the cover prevents these spikes.

Also, if you drive to and from the track, you may want to practice driving without using your clutch. Don’t overdo it; just practice enough so that you understand the basic principles (which I won’t go into here) of clutch-less shifting. This is a skill that you will hopefully never use.

However, this may save you one day if you find yourself stranded in an empty paddock with no ability to disengage the clutch. It did for me…

^ great information. I've had clutchlock and it's not fun. "Resp" added

LOL...mine doesn't hold my car well anyway so I'm not concerned!

Word of caution on the wheel chocks, remember to move them out of the way before you move the car. Even if you back away from them they might be sticking to the hot and soft tires, causing them to be dragged into your wheel well and potentially causing damage there. This of course mainly when you use small, light weight ones.