The man is talking sense .

660 isn't worth it unless you are a race team and flush/bleed every time you go to the track, and can afford the added cost.

Never mind, just googled the difference. Well still. 23 degrees seems very low to me when we are talking about 600 degrees. I can't see a track car teetering right on that line where 23 degrees makes or "brakes" you. Get it? Brakes you? Haha


Cost aside whats wet vs dry? I mean brake fluid is wet no? Isn't that the important number to watch? Again the 600 is 1 degree better than the 660 anyways in the wet.

Wet is when the brake fluid is contaminated with water, which inevitably happens over time, unless you only run in perfectly dry conditions and low humidity and swap all the fluid just before every race weekend or something. Bleeding regularly helps, but for those not on infinite time+money budgets for swapping brake fluid the wet temp is important.

Like he says, wet is above a certain percentage of water absorbed by the fluid. I confess I don't know at what percentage the fluid is considered 'wet' off the top of my head.

Brake fluid is hygroscopic, that means it actively absorbs water out of the air. For a track car, anything above 1% water content is usually enough to warrant a flush and refill.

Anything above 4% is dangerous, even for a street car.

I use 600 in my clutch, but I race in the desert and I do bleed them a lot, whether they need it or not. Socal and the deserts north and east of here are obviously very very arid. A lot of the of the GTR guys have told me just to switch to Endless fluid for all the reasons you guys are talking about, but so far it has been a non issue.

Hygroscopic ! :p

Shut up brainiac

That's how you grow plants in your closet right??

:bowrofl:

brake line upgrades?
 

Any suggestions on stainless steel bake lines??

Goodridge.

Sent from my Nexus 5

Z1 premium

Z1 SS brake lines with the motul brake fluid on my car and works great

There are basically two "styles" of replacement SS brake line you can go with. The OEM-style ones retain all of the connections and mounting points of the originals (it's like, 2 little lines attached to connection blocks that screw down to the suspension). Then there's the straight kind that are just a single line of the correct length. In Z1's store, "premium" is OEM-style and the not-premium is the single-line kind. If you do the OEM ones you don't have to change anything but the lines. The straight ones have fewer connections and allow you to remove a few brackets and things to dump a little weight from the front suspension. That's what I'm running, but I had to put some plastic shields on my coilovers to make sure the threads on the coilover didn't try to rub the brake lines.

Wussy, just let 'em rub. A little Russian Roulette never hurt anyone...

Also, nice avatar pic - looks like CoA?

Yeah I got a CD full of pics from the photographers at the last CotA event. That track is amazing. I put a few in an album here: Nissan 370Z Forum - wstar's Album: COTA pics