No, a squealing tire is just a warning sign that you are reaching the limit of traction, but yes they will squeal louder if you break traction. The large treadblock street tires such as RE-11 don't really squeal all that much anyway unless really hot. You'll learn to understand your tires communication in time.

Spacers: up to you. I tried them but had issues and so stopped using them. The better choice is just to get wheels of a lower offset if so inclined.

Where you at in Germany? Military? I'll be headed to Spangdahlem this weekend from Beglium for their MotorWeekend.

I'm in Vilseck, Army. I'm heading to Reisbrennen, you should come and checlk it out.

REISBRENNEN TRAILER | BY FORMAT67.NET - YouTube

I am not all to familiar with tracking the Z and what most people run in regards to camber and toe. But from the other car I have built up I run -3 up front and -3.5 in the rear and slightly toe out for turn in response. But regarding the toe out if you are on a higher speed track it makes it very darty. On the streets same camber but toe set to 0 to reduce inside wear. I have logged over 20k on some R1r's and they are even across the tire with no abnormal wear inside or out and I drive those tires way harder than the Z. Most people assume that the inner wear is from camber but it is actually from the toe and people cheaping out on getting their car aligned after making ANY suspension mods or changes.

Chris, what set up do you have on your coils? I was running mine full hard at the ring. Also here are the numbers from my alingment.

Before

F/L: -1.35
F/R: -1.45
R/L: -2.36
R/R: -2.36

After

Front: +0.4
Rear: +0.19

Thanks for the info Jay. That seems like a lot of camber, maybe when I get better at the track I can try something like that.

My Z at the Ring
 

Guys here is a pic of my first track day at the Nurburgring.

I would recommend the camber also. I haven't raced officially but I have taken my z (and many other cars) through some serious turning and steering at some pretty high speeds. I have been on the nordschleife a couple times also so I know the track personally. The cambe helps with under steer. As far as saving tires. If you track your car your going to be buying tires and other wearable parts on a regular basis. This will help save them a bit. The biggest thing that will save them is knowing the racing line around the ring or any other track. Also know that a tuned z, which is what you have, will want you to thrown the *** out on the big turns and keep the throttle around 4-5k depending on the turn. You'll want to break hard and then throttle out quickly in order to keep balance through most of the turns. The thing that make nbr way different from all other tracks is that there are a couple straights where you can get the car maxed out top end. Just know there the next turn is. Have fun!!!


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I want to know how the heck they changed your front camber! LOL Maybe those after numbers are total toe?

I have the stiffer springs on my BC's, 12K front, 10K rear. On street tires I usually run them in about the middle (15 clicks from full soft), I only run full hard for slicks. Having the suspension move a little bit is useful, makes the car more communicative.

I am thinking those are the front and rear toe numbers. And that seems to be right. For most all manufactors have the factory toe set slightly positive. Each tire pushes ever so slightly against each other so it stays straight easier for joe snuffy that buys 99% of the vehicles for simply a commuter. Like I said you can run slightly toe out but better for low speed courses and autox. Dont want to DD with toe out, will destroy tires. 0* is the best all around, but when in semi ruts it wants to drag the drag around.

I am not sure if the Z can adjust the caster but if you can you can run the tire out a little farther forwards in regards to the fender wheel to help with high speed stability.


Diagram:
http://www.pfadtracing.com/photos/da...diagram-01.jpg

There is no factory caster or camber adjustments up front. The SPC front arms have +/- 2.5 degrees of camber (in reality a lot more - than +) and +/- 1.0 degrees caster adjustment. I agree though, those do look like standard toe numbers at the bottom.

Just curious, but what are the few guys on here that have pretty much turned it into a dedicated track running as to toe, caster,and camber? Corner balancing numbers?

Yeah, that's a pretty good questions Jay. Also do they change set up from track to street and vice versa?