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I've actually thought a lot about switching to a rear bar and compensating by increasing the bump stop rate to get the front stiff enough. Not going to make the jump this year but may play around a little after nationals this year and see if I can get it to work.
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Are you not allowed front control arms for camber?
If your not running a LSD and go with just a rear bar... Def creeping in on inside wheels spin which will kill any forward bite out of a corner. There is always a couple ways to skin the cat as they say. Again .... Not sure exactly what your rules are. |
Rules are alignment adjustment using OEM equipment only (no camber arms, crash bolts, etc.), shocks (not springs), bump stops, and front OR rear bar. Aside from tire pressures that's all you get to tweak the set-up of the car.
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A good driver can drive around slight understeer but it's real tough to overcome inside wheel spin if your rear bar is too big. But I'm biased I have no patience for goofy stock classes in SCCA I want a car that allows me flexibility in setup. I dont want to be a slave to restrictive AX rules. At minim street mod if not prepared are where my cars always end up with SCCA. I couldn't even live with Street prepared. Winning isn't everything for me in amatuer motorsports having a car I can tune and play with is where it's at. It's growing sentiment in my region where we have growing non SCCA clubs that attract 200 plus attendees at each event. Most not running stock classes. sCCA needs to be mindful they are losing mindshare with folks like me and others. I'm petitioning for differnt set of street modified and prepared rules that allow heavier street going cars to be comptitve. |
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What are your current camber settings?
Back in the 350z T2 SCCA days... We would put the front control arms in a press an tweak them a bit for camber. :) |
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a lot of people cheat.....
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I would call the front control arms being tweaked a bit cheating.... espc if the rules allow for some alignment changes. So if there is a max negative camber number... Going over that is cheating .... But getting some additional negative camber could be had with some arms that had a casting defect or were that way after hitting some curbing.
:) There are other ways of getting camber on the front end of the Z. |
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So I wonder what best setup is? Big front bar with more bump in rear or bigger bar in rear with more bump up front for poor stock class guys? I havent seen this discussed before. I never had this issue with Nismo but base and sport model guys have sucky bars and springs and can only modify one swaybar with choice of front or rear. |
those scca solo guys are weird. there was a guy that forged bunch of fake Honda docs to get some stiffer springs or something. got caught, suspended and now back writing articles. bunch of crazy middle age guys
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Sorry... The above post should have read "I WOULD NOT"
There isn't a successful team in racing that hasn't pushed one grey area or another. Again... If you tweak the arms a little bit and get -.5 more neg camber vs flat out bend them to extremes and get -1.5.... The later you are asking for it. Get creative and find a really good machine shop. ;) |
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Ok, I just ordered an eibach rear bar just to try it out. I have new set of Koni yellow and was thinking about sending them in to be revalved with the intension of running stiffer bump stop. How stiff I have no clue, bump stop are relatively cheap. I seen some Penske bump stop that's I believe 400 lb when compressed an inch, would be more trail and error. I would have to get the front of the Koni's revalved with high rebound to keep it on the bump stop, like NASCAR.
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