Camber Settings for Street/Track

370zDR

Hi

Been searching the forums for definitive answers on a good DD/Track Camber setup, want something that would be easy on the tires for daily driving, but aggressive enough for the times when i hit the track. I've read many comments, all of them recommended more negative front than rears to help with oversteering but there was no general consensus.

I'm running Tein S-tech, planning on getting SPC camber arms.

What do You guys think would be optimal settings?

My thoughts:
-2.1 Front (toe 0) and -1.9 rear (toe -0.13).

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clintfocus

on my DD/track day Z i have -2.1 up front, zero toe, -1.5 rear with about .25 total toe in the rear ( so about .12.5 each side). our cars dont need alot of rear static camber because of the aggressive camber curve under compression.

SPOHN

I run -2.3 F with a tad of toe in. This gives you better turn in. Then -1.8 R with 0 toe. I have no real signs of camber wear on F and R. Different tires might handle this differently though. This setup has worked great for me. Course on track days when you reduce tire pressure you will get the extra grip/ feel you need.

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cossie1600

Toe in gives you more straightline stabilty, not turn in.

You dont want to run toeout or even zero toe in the rear, thats what gives you the snap over steer

osbornsm

LIES !!

I thought some toe OUT in the front gives better turn in??

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clintfocus

i just recently did some modification to my Kinetix front camber arms, re aligning next week to see if i can get close to -3( the -2 im running now is not enough)

370zDR

Are you going to DD this much camber? And what other suspension mods you have?

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clintfocus

Yeah got the fronts to -3.1, i added a touch more to the rear so i went from -1.5 to -2 cause i was more on the outta edge in the rear then id like. I think thats too much for the rear but im going to test none the less and use my pyrometer for tire temp data. If -2 is too much for the rear ill bring it down to -1.75 and retest.

yeah i DD with that much camber, -3 isnt really that much and you wont see crazy irregular ware unless you commute like 100 miles a day and never take your car for a spirited or never go to track days. I run mild toe settings (zero front .20-.25 total toe in) so i dont get wacky toe ware.

my suspension mods are as followed

KW V3s
Whiteline sway bars, front set at full still, rear set at full soft
Kinetix alignment arms, front camber arms modified for extra negative camber, rear camber and toe arms

martin82

I got crazy camber -3 all around lol!! I need better rear alignment knock it down to -2 or so!!

370SteeZ

Like this..

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nasm

Do you think -2 front and -1.5 to -1.7 rear is good combination for track and street (weekends only).

Is the stock camber arms enough for the above settings?

Appreciate your reply.

Regards,
Nasm


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Sold: A7 370z 2014 - Stillen Catback - Testpipes - UpRev - Dropin filters - Silicon intake pipes - BC racing coil overs - Z1 Subframe collars - Z1 Engine and Trans Mounts - Oil cooler - CatchCan - Z1 brake lines. Now: I am building another car

Spooler

There is no adjustment in the front for Camber on stock arms (FUCA's). Get the SPL catalog to give yourself some adjustability.

nasm

Thank you .. appreciated

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Sold: A7 370z 2014 - Stillen Catback - Testpipes - UpRev - Dropin filters - Silicon intake pipes - BC racing coil overs - Z1 Subframe collars - Z1 Engine and Trans Mounts - Oil cooler - CatchCan - Z1 brake lines. Now: I am building another car

Hotrodz

Once you get the appropriate hardware you should go at leat -2.5 up front with castor at 6 and a tuch of toe.

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Rusty

My specs.
SPL arms. Hotchkis front bar
Front; camber -2.2, caster +6.5, toe .06 in
Rear; camber -1.7, toe .06 in.

You can not adjust the front for camber or caster with the stock arms. They are non adjustable.

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