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-   -   What are the best suspension mods for the 370 for DD and some track use? (http://www.the370z.com/track-autocross-drifting-dragstrip/42109-what-best-suspension-mods-370-dd-some-track-use.html)

Methodical4u 09-02-2011 10:29 PM

What are the best suspension mods for the 370 for DD and some track use?
 
I don't want to lower the car, but if there were a few things.. just best bang for the buck type stuff that I could add to the car to help with some track use, without making the car rough on the street for DDing.. what would they be?

FL 4Motion 09-02-2011 10:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Methodical4u (Post 1295960)
I don't want to lower the car, but if there were a few things.. just best bang for the buck type stuff that I could add to the car to help with some track use, without making the car rough on the street for DDing.. what would they be?

hmmm, well sway bars come to mind as one easy thing to do. Nismo suspension if you don't want coilovers but want a more aggressive setup. It only lowers the car maybe 1/2".

Not too sure since I'm not at the point of dropping $$ for a set of coilovers, but I would imagine they are height adj too so you could set them for the minimum amount of drop (1/2 to 1" I'd imagine).

I'm interested to see what folks with moton or jrz's have to say as far as that goes.

Perhaps the Nismo japan body brace setup that Z1 carries. Or the GTspec braces (or whatever they're called).

Methodical4u 09-02-2011 10:45 PM

Thanks for that info... I forgot to add that I have a 2011 with sport package.

Methodical4u 09-02-2011 10:46 PM

what sort of pads can be used for both? or should the pads just be changed right before going to a track?

FL 4Motion 09-02-2011 10:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Methodical4u (Post 1295975)
what sort of pads can be used for both? or should the pads just be changed right before going to a track?

brakes pads?

I'm running carbotech xp8's all around. "entry level" track pad, very easy on the rotors, non corrosive dust etc. A little bit squeaky but not near as bad as the stock brembp pads on our old GTR. Xp8's are a bit grabbier than stock but once again, not as bad, from what I can remember, as the stock GTR pads were.

the 8's are good to 1350deg, the next step up is XP10's, i believe they're rated for 1550 deg or something around there. Much more aggressive bit, dust, noise, etc, but I don't have experience with them on the Z (yet perhaps). As long as my driver (wifey) says she's good with the xp8's, that's what we'll run. Last track event she only got brake fade twice toward the end of one of her sessions, but her braking style actually lends itself very well to avoiding ice mode etc with the Z so I'm hoping we can stay with the xp8s since others have said moving up to a more aggressive pad can trigger ice mode more often (she's had it happen once or twice now).

ResIpsa 09-05-2011 11:57 AM

Leave the suspension stock. Save your money for pads, brake fluid, and an oil cooler.

wh1te370z 09-06-2011 12:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ResIpsa (Post 1298445)
Leave the suspension stock. Save your money for pads, brake fluid, and an oil cooler.

:iagree:

Oil cooler, fluids and brake pads are a must. Then id go for tires, then sway bars (fronts first, then rears), then coilovers. I feel like i forgot something....

WWJD 09-06-2011 02:38 PM

Stock and Nismo are really good IMO. The only better suspension worth to consider would be KW Clubsport for the least. If you track a lot, then JRZ, Moton, etc. But nothing is cheap though.

cossie1600 09-06-2011 04:14 PM

unless the track day is imminent, dont buy items two years ahead of time

b1adesofcha0s 09-06-2011 04:24 PM

What about swift springs? I just ordered a set of them myself. Not as expensive as coil overs, but still work pretty well from what I have read.

cossie1600 09-06-2011 06:57 PM

If you get into tracking the car, you will outgrow the springs very quickly. Plus tires make more of a difference. If you want to go fast, buy slicks. If you can't drive, nothing will help you....

Red__Zed 09-06-2011 06:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cossie1600 (Post 1300351)
If you get into tracking the car, you will outgrow the springs very quickly. Plus tires make more of a difference. If you want to go fast, buy slicks. If you can't drive, nothing will help you....

curious why you say this? The stock tokico's pair very well with the swifts, and you can always move to FA dampers paired with the swifts (which I prefer to most of the coils options)

corbin09 09-08-2011 01:08 PM

Red Zed- What is FA dampers?

wh1te370z 09-09-2011 08:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Red__Zed (Post 1300355)
curious why you say this? The stock tokico's pair very well with the swifts, and you can always move to FA dampers paired with the swifts (which I prefer to most of the coils options)

I think that if you swap any aftermarket springs in the car it throws off the engineering of the stock shocks and springs. thus in the end giving you a worse ride. Nissan put a lot more time into the engineering of the pairing than swift did.

Red__Zed 09-09-2011 10:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wh1te370z (Post 1304879)
I think that if you swap any aftermarket springs in the car it throws off the engineering of the stock shocks and springs. thus in the end giving you a worse ride. Nissan put a lot more time into the engineering of the pairing than swift did.

Based on my discussions with swift and FA, I think the damper valving is perfect for the swifts. The stock springs are too soft for stock setup.

My experience with KW'S and then swifts on the car seems to confirm.

wh1te370z 09-09-2011 10:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Red__Zed (Post 1305014)
Based on my discussions with swift and FA, I think the damper valving is perfect for the swifts. The stock springs are too soft for stock setup.

My experience with KW'S and then swifts on the car seems to confirm.

They may be soft but the comepression rates, decomepression rates and what not, are matched perfectly. i dont see being better. maybe stiffer, but not better. but thats my opinion based on my knowledge. If you put in aftermarket shocks and springs that were matched id agree. but at that point you might as well get coilovers.

BACK ON TOPIC. the point of the thread is for the best susp mod. IMO id say buy tires (Slicks) if you cant afford them buy sway bars. but like i said before oil cooler and fluids and brake pads are a must before any other upgrades.

cossie1600 09-09-2011 10:38 AM

i dont recall the number exactly, but the swift spring rate is like 30% stiffer than stock. you are asking the shock to absorb that much harder, i dont believe it one bit that it would be good for its longevity. as far as performance, the difference would be very minimal and there is really no way to adjust or fine tune it. you are better off saving your money on tires brakes and driving classes. if you need to mod, get some sway bars instead as they are at least adjustable.

the z spring is stiff compare to the corvette z51 and rx8, it really isnt all that bad of a setup fpor a stock car. obviously it would be better to have coilover and more front cambers, but some are complete overkil for a street vehicle. also no one ever looks at the class impact and all the other bs should they decide to enter time trials, you can spend your money on a lot better places...

is swift springs made by swift motorsports in norwich ct?

wh1te370z 09-09-2011 01:10 PM

hey cossie i know its off topic but do u still have ur car?

cossie1600 09-09-2011 01:41 PM

Yes, nothing else to buy at this point. Everything else is kind of a so-so option.

lsxjunkie 09-13-2011 12:03 PM

Leave it stock, get an oil cooler, and spend money on seat time.

Methodical4u 09-13-2011 04:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wh1te370z (Post 1299627)
:iagree:

Oil cooler, fluids and brake pads are a must. Then id go for tires, then sway bars (fronts first, then rears), then coilovers. I feel like i forgot something....

I thought the stock tires were pretty good.

Methodical4u 09-13-2011 04:07 PM

ok for the oil cooler (which I was planning on doing anyway) I think a 25 row would be good for DD and maybe an occasional track day... best brand? GTM, Stillen? Another kind perhaps?

b1adesofcha0s 09-13-2011 04:26 PM

I think they all used Setrab oil cooler cores and they're all roughly the same price. Just pick one I guess. I was looking to get the Z1 oil cooler. Definitely want to get one with a thermostatic plate.

Methodical4u 09-13-2011 07:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by b1adesofcha0s (Post 1311426)
I think they all used Setrab oil cooler cores and they're all roughly the same price. Just pick one I guess. I was looking to get the Z1 oil cooler. Definitely want to get one with a thermostatic plate.

Yeah, I have a guy that gives me good prices usually on stuff and he's very honest... if you guys let me know prices you have gotten and I can beat them, i'll hook you guys up with the price I get.

PM me if you are interested... by the way i'm just going to give you his info... not trying to make anything off of anyone.

wh1te370z 09-15-2011 08:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Methodical4u (Post 1311388)
I thought the stock tires were pretty good.

Stock tires are good. but NOTHING like a set of slicks. I would try out going to the track on stock tires w an the oil cooler pads and fluids that way u can get a good feel for what the car can do. Also w slicks they dont give u the warning sqeel before they brake loose. they just let go.

I have the 25 row from Z1 and couldnt be happier. Kept my car out of limp mode with back to back runs at the track with almost no cooldown time.

gtkiller 09-21-2011 01:26 PM

The stock Bridgestones that come with the sports package is great for beginners they're predictable and produce enough grip when your just starting out. Later on you may consider some nice aggressive street tires like RE11's, AD08, etc etc...

But like many have said here brake pads, brake fluid, and oil cooler is a great starting point.

ChrisSlicks 09-21-2011 01:59 PM

Don't waste your money on slicks as a beginner. They have more grip but don't give you as much feedback before breakaway, definitely something you should work up to IMO. Street tires are good at teaching you how to drive at the limit of traction as you will be potentially at that limit a lot.

Critical upgrades are as everyone else said, pads, fluid and oil cooler. After doing a couple of events I would go for sway bars next, it is a good intermediate step before coilovers.

gtkiller 09-21-2011 02:12 PM

I was considering doing sway bars next any recommendations?

wh1te370z 09-21-2011 03:37 PM

heard whitelines supposed to be pretty good. Stillen, hotchkis


As for the tires. Chris is right, didnt think of that.

wstar 09-21-2011 03:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChrisSlicks (Post 1323703)
Don't waste your money on slicks as a beginner. They have more grip but don't give you as much feedback before breakaway, definitely something you should work up to IMO. Street tires are good at teaching you how to drive at the limit of traction as you will be potentially at that limit a lot.

^ This. The class I signed up for recently even specifically disallows students in their novice/beginner-level rankings to use slicks at all. Their words: "A driver with out proper training before going to race tires is at a disadvantage, race tire mask many mistakes, don’t allow proper training, and create a safety hazard to lower level drivers, their instructors and others on the track."

XwChriswX 09-21-2011 03:54 PM

So after getting upgraded pads/lines/fluid... would you recommend lighter weight (slotted/dimpled/drilled) rotors, or are the stock ones sufficient to be continually pushed?


Basically short version, would you say get nicer rotors next, or just get sways then rotors later?

cossie1600 09-21-2011 04:15 PM

they should probably add that for awd drivers too.........

sig11 09-21-2011 04:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by XwChriswX (Post 1323938)
So after getting upgraded pads/lines/fluid... would you recommend lighter weight (slotted/dimpled/drilled) rotors, or are the stock ones sufficient to be continually pushed?


Basically short version, would you say get nicer rotors next, or just get sways then rotors later?

Wait on rotors until you need to replace the stock ones. There is another thread around here that discusses it a bit more in depth.

XwChriswX 09-21-2011 04:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sig11 (Post 1324113)
Wait on rotors until you need to replace the stock ones. There is another thread around here that discusses it a bit more in depth.

I know that lighter weight rotors are what you want... for a full on setup.

But being realistic in terms of a street car going on the track, when you swap from say stock rotors to aftermarket rotors, in terms of weight savings... is it THAT noticable from the seat?

cossie1600 09-21-2011 05:33 PM

virtually none for a non professional driver....

XwChriswX 09-21-2011 06:11 PM

So basically Pads/Fluid/SS Lines is really all you need, and rotors are something that if you get a good deal on, or just want the look... they can wait.

Sways first...

wstar 09-21-2011 06:22 PM

I donno, just by the math the lightweight front rotors (-10 lbs per front corner, rotating and unsprung) should be a pretty decent little acceleration boost. Even by a reasonable estimate of calling that worth 5x regular sprung weight, that's like taking 100 lbs out of the car acceleration-wise. So ballpark equivalent to ~10hp in engine gains on a Z? Very fuzzy conversions there, and still not nearly as important as anything else mentioned above, but still I'd say it does make a difference.

The main problem with the lightweight 2-piece rotor setups is they cost too much for what they give you.

Red__Zed 09-21-2011 06:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cossie1600 (Post 1324200)
virtually none for a non professional driver....

my autoX times dropped notably from swapping to lighter rotors.

XwChriswX 09-21-2011 06:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wstar (Post 1324281)
I donno, just by the math the lightweight front rotors (-10 lbs per front corner, rotating and unsprung) should be a pretty decent little acceleration boost. Even by a reasonable estimate of calling that worth 5x regular sprung weight, that's like taking 100 lbs out of the car acceleration-wise. So ballpark equivalent to ~10hp in engine gains on a Z? Very fuzzy conversions there, and still not nearly as important as anything else mentioned above, but still I'd say it does make a difference.

The main problem with the lightweight 2-piece rotor setups is they cost too much for what they give you.

Which is the reason for my next question, and my biggest one...

I do plan to turn my Z one day into a dedicated track car... So to me getting the 2 piece rotors is functional, maybe not tomorrow, but down the line... And I don't like to buy parts, to have to buy the same thing again later...

With that being said, 2 piece ones are very expensive, so are the lighter weight than stock one piece rotors alright, or at least good enough to withstand DDing and occasional track days without sacrificing too much performance gain from floating 2 piece ones?

Long story short, I dont want to buy a set of rotors, to switch them out again later, so is it worth it to go ahead and get 2 pieces instead of singles?

cossie1600 09-21-2011 07:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Red__Zed (Post 1324289)
my autoX times dropped notably from swapping to lighter rotors.

Placebo effect.

If it was that easy to pick up time, people wouldn't be wasting money buying tires. This is especially true at the amateur level as most aren't getting enough out of their car. I am not saying it doesn't help, just not at $300 per corner.....

Also do you know what class you will be running? If you ever want to compete for time/standing, you have to modify your car within the rules. You can't just put parts on it without knowing how it will impact you.


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