What are the best suspension mods for the 370 for DD and some track use?

ChrisSlicks · 09-22-2011, 07:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by XwChriswX

Racing Brake is a no name brand??

Ok, then if one were to stay DBA, would you recommend the one piece 4000 or the two piece 5000, those two pieces are FS with very light use, or a brand new set... The 4000's are single piece, but half the price... so in the end you could get all 4 4000's for the price of the front 5000's...

This is for DD and good canyon runs + eventual track days. When it comes time for serious tracking, I could always upgrade right?

And if one were to just get the fronts with stock rears, would that hamper the braking system? Or is it recommended to just swap all 4 out at the same time?

Sorry I though they were using the term generically, didn't see the RB logo.

In your case I would go with DBA 4000's as a replacement rotor. There is no point doing a 2-piece rotor now if the track is still a long way away. They would perform admirably on the track anyway.

sig11 · 09-22-2011, 11:15 AM

I figured that the cost of a full set of 2-piece rotors is way too high compared to the cost of a BBK. You have more than half of an AP Racing 6-piston BBK for the same price (front only though). :P

XwChriswX · 09-22-2011, 11:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChrisSlicks

Sorry I though they were using the term generically, didn't see the RB logo.

In your case I would go with DBA 4000's as a replacement rotor. There is no point doing a 2-piece rotor now if the track is still a long way away. They would perform admirably on the track anyway.

Alright, so 4000's would be the best... even better than the RB ones?

I know there is some

towards having cross-drilled and slotted rotors vs just slotted. For the DD/Spirited Canyon runs/Maybe a few track days later on, would this present a real problem, or would it just be better to get slotted only?

ChrisSlicks · 09-22-2011, 12:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by XwChriswX

Alright, so 4000's would be the best... even better than the RB ones?

I know there is some

towards having cross-drilled and slotted rotors vs just slotted. For the DD/Spirited Canyon runs/Maybe a few track days later on, would this present a real problem, or would it just be better to get slotted only?

RB only makes a 1-piece rotor for the base model, they don't have one that fits the sport package, only the 2-piece you referenced. The RB 2-piece would be fine as well, both companies have good metallurgy and construction.

The drilled rotors look sexy, but when the cracks start playing "connect the dots" after a couple of track days you'll be hating it. They're fine for street driving but add additional noise and help consume your brake pads faster.

XwChriswX · 09-22-2011, 12:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChrisSlicks

RB only makes a 1-piece rotor for the base model, they don't have one that fits the sport package, only the 2-piece you referenced. The RB 2-piece would be fine as well, both companies have good metallurgy and construction.

The drilled rotors look sexy, but when the cracks start playing "connect the dots" after a couple of track days you'll be hating it. They're fine for street driving but add additional noise and help consume your brake pads faster.

Yeah, I have the sport package. Just looking to get the calipers PC'd and upgrade the lines/fluid/pads/rotors and that should do just fine for me until I can get my track expertise up.

I like the RB 2 piece ones because they give you the benefits of both, slots with holes in them as opposed to crossdrilled... Would that be a good median?

They do have signifigantly better weight savings vs the 4000's...

ChrisSlicks · 09-22-2011, 12:25 PM

It is street car, I wouldn't worry about small weight savings. Anything short of driving ballz to the wall flat out on track you're not going to notice.

The cross drills in the RB brakes are fine, they can still eventually crack but are less likely to crack that fully drilled rotors (the braking surface is more heat stressed than the recessed areas).

Replacement rings for the RB's will run you about 250 a corner, maybe a little more once you add on the hardware.

XwChriswX · 09-22-2011, 12:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChrisSlicks

It is street car, I wouldn't worry about small weight savings. Anything short of driving ballz to the wall flat out on track you're not going to notice.

The cross drills in the RB brakes are fine, they can still eventually crack but are less likely to crack that fully drilled rotors (the braking surface is more heat stressed than the recessed areas).

Replacement rings for the RB's will run you about 250 a corner, maybe a little more once you add on the hardware.

Hmmm... they just look better than the 4000s lol

Ok so we've narrowed it down to the Carbotech XP8s being the best pad for this purpose...

Down to 2 rotor options...

SS Lines are pretty much SS Lines, I'm looking at getting the Goodridge Phantom's myself...

All thats left is what fluid to get?

ChrisSlicks · 09-22-2011, 12:40 PM

Go cheap on the fluid until you get serious. ATE Typ-200 or Blue. $20 for 1L.

XwChriswX · 09-22-2011, 12:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChrisSlicks

Go cheap on the fluid until you get serious. ATE Typ-200 or Blue. $20 for 1L.

I'm not really the sort to be cheap... lol

I don't mind spending a bit more if the quality is there.

ChrisSlicks · 09-22-2011, 01:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by XwChriswX

I'm not really the sort to be cheap... lol

I don't mind spending a bit more if the quality is there.

It is good quality fluid. 536F dry and 396F wet. Good moisture handling means it can survive up to 3 years before flush (street driving). This is not your autozone generic

I'm just saying don't waste your money on 600F fluid when your brake temps aren't getting any where close to that, and suffer reduced moisture handling and corrosion as a result.

XwChriswX · 09-22-2011, 01:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChrisSlicks

It is good quality fluid. 536F dry and 396F wet. Good moisture handling means it can survive up to 3 years before flush (street driving). This is not your autozone generic

I'm just saying don't waste your money on 600F fluid when your brake temps aren't getting any where close to that, and suffer reduced moisture handling and corrosion as a result.

Fair enough...

KamiSpeed has this on the forum, is it too much for whats needed?

DOT 4, High boiling point brake fluid. PMU G-Four 335. You have to try this!

ChrisSlicks · 09-22-2011, 01:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by XwChriswX

Fair enough...

KamiSpeed has this on the forum, is it too much for whats needed?

DOT 4, High boiling point brake fluid. PMU G-Four 335. You have to try this!

Yes, it is too much. The ultra high-temp fluids need to be flushed on a regular basis because they don't absorb much moisture. Moisture build up leads to corrosion.

XwChriswX · 09-22-2011, 01:35 PM

Hmm, maybe need them to stock the stuff you're referring to instead.

sig11 · 09-22-2011, 01:48 PM

You can get ATE Super Blue just about anywhere too... that is one big advantage to it over Motoul for example.

XwChriswX · 09-22-2011, 01:50 PM

Ok, so the Super Blue is good for a DD/occasionally pushed?

This one?

Here's a quote from the website...

Quote:

Choose from the Blue Super Blue or the Clear Typ200. The only difference is the color. Typ200 is the typical brake fluid amber in color so you can tell when you have all the old brake fluid flushed out. They're both the same price. They are both good shit

I guess that settles it.

09-22-2011, 12:25 PM	#51 (permalink)
ChrisSlicks A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: North East Posts: 6,203 Drives: 09 370Z Sport M6 Rep Power: 653	It is street car, I wouldn't worry about small weight savings. Anything short of driving ballz to the wall flat out on track you're not going to notice. The cross drills in the RB brakes are fine, they can still eventually crack but are less likely to crack that fully drilled rotors (the braking surface is more heat stressed than the recessed areas). Replacement rings for the RB's will run you about 250 a corner, maybe a little more once you add on the hardware. __________________ Hotchkis ARB \| Stillen CAI \| Art Pipes \| Berk CBE \| Stillen AP Racing Brakes \| AE Performance Oil Cooler \| BC Racing ER Coilovers \| Doran Control Arms

09-22-2011, 12:40 PM	#53 (permalink)
ChrisSlicks A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: North East Posts: 6,203 Drives: 09 370Z Sport M6 Rep Power: 653	Go cheap on the fluid until you get serious. ATE Typ-200 or Blue. $20 for 1L. __________________ Hotchkis ARB \| Stillen CAI \| Art Pipes \| Berk CBE \| Stillen AP Racing Brakes \| AE Performance Oil Cooler \| BC Racing ER Coilovers \| Doran Control Arms

09-22-2011, 01:35 PM	#58 (permalink)
XwChriswX WFLYIDNNE Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: In The Fastlane Posts: 50,648 Drives: 02 GDB WRX Rep Power: 452	Hmm, maybe need them to stock the stuff you're referring to instead. __________________ Bonnie - Stage 2, Audio build coming this fall! R.I.P. Abby 3/29/10 - 3/30/14

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09-22-2011, 11:15 AM	#47 (permalink)
sig11 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Detroit Posts: 1,294 Drives: 09 370Z Red Sport-MT Rep Power: 18	I figured that the cost of a full set of 2-piece rotors is way too high compared to the cost of a BBK. You have more than half of an AP Racing 6-piston BBK for the same price (front only though). :P

09-22-2011, 01:48 PM	#59 (permalink)
sig11 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Detroit Posts: 1,294 Drives: 09 370Z Red Sport-MT Rep Power: 18	You can get ATE Super Blue just about anywhere too... that is one big advantage to it over Motoul for example.