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So after getting upgraded pads/lines/fluid... would you recommend lighter weight (slotted/dimpled/drilled) rotors, or are the stock ones sufficient to be continually pushed?
Basically short version, would you say get nicer rotors next, or just get sways then rotors later? |
they should probably add that for awd drivers too.........
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But being realistic in terms of a street car going on the track, when you swap from say stock rotors to aftermarket rotors, in terms of weight savings... is it THAT noticable from the seat? |
virtually none for a non professional driver....
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So basically Pads/Fluid/SS Lines is really all you need, and rotors are something that if you get a good deal on, or just want the look... they can wait.
Sways first... |
I donno, just by the math the lightweight front rotors (-10 lbs per front corner, rotating and unsprung) should be a pretty decent little acceleration boost. Even by a reasonable estimate of calling that worth 5x regular sprung weight, that's like taking 100 lbs out of the car acceleration-wise. So ballpark equivalent to ~10hp in engine gains on a Z? Very fuzzy conversions there, and still not nearly as important as anything else mentioned above, but still I'd say it does make a difference.
The main problem with the lightweight 2-piece rotor setups is they cost too much for what they give you. |
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I do plan to turn my Z one day into a dedicated track car... So to me getting the 2 piece rotors is functional, maybe not tomorrow, but down the line... And I don't like to buy parts, to have to buy the same thing again later... With that being said, 2 piece ones are very expensive, so are the lighter weight than stock one piece rotors alright, or at least good enough to withstand DDing and occasional track days without sacrificing too much performance gain from floating 2 piece ones? Long story short, I dont want to buy a set of rotors, to switch them out again later, so is it worth it to go ahead and get 2 pieces instead of singles? |
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If it was that easy to pick up time, people wouldn't be wasting money buying tires. This is especially true at the amateur level as most aren't getting enough out of their car. I am not saying it doesn't help, just not at $300 per corner..... Also do you know what class you will be running? If you ever want to compete for time/standing, you have to modify your car within the rules. You can't just put parts on it without knowing how it will impact you. |
2-piece rotors might give you a "slight" acceleration boost, I didn't notice anything striking. Only my front rotors are significantly lighter, the rears are within a pound or two as they have iron hats.
A while back Grassroots Motorsports did a laptime test using different weight wheels, the times were all extremely close. In fact they noted a higher top speed with the heavier wheels (the rotating weight acts like a flywheel does). Forget lightweight 1-piece rotors, those are not suitable for tracking. You are just reducing mass that can absorb the thermal energy from braking. The real question you have to ask yourself before buying 2-piece rotors is how much is it going to cost in the long run? I have to replace my rotor rings after every 12-14 track days. Theoretically new rings should run about the same as new 1-piece rotors but you are at the mercy of the vendor. Make sure you find out the replacement cost before buying - usually new mounting hardware is required every time as well (hat to ring screws, nuts and washers). For me the cost is an acceptable trade off, but do your homework first. |
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http://www.the370z.com/parts-sale-pr...s-2-piece.html Or http://www.the370z.com/parts-sale-pr...nt-rotors.html |
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I'll have to dig up my datalogs, there was actually a notable difference. Don't necessarily disagree that it may not be worth the price, just sharing my results... |
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Ok, then if one were to stay DBA, would you recommend the one piece 4000 or the two piece 5000, those two pieces are FS with very light use, or a brand new set... The 4000's are single piece, but half the price... so in the end you could get all 4 4000's for the price of the front 5000's... This is for DD and good canyon runs + eventual track days. When it comes time for serious tracking, I could always upgrade right? And if one were to just get the fronts with stock rears, would that hamper the braking system? Or is it recommended to just swap all 4 out at the same time? |
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