Originally Posted by wstar Oh! I thought they still only had one that fit the 35DE/HR engines, or did it end up being the same part? In any case, good
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05-09-2013, 05:26 PM | #166 (permalink) | |
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Yes I was planning on doing the water pump at the same time "since I'm in there" but really don't have any desire to be in there any time soon In other words I want the results but don't want to do the work.
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05-09-2013, 08:04 PM | #167 (permalink) | |
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05-10-2013, 07:00 AM | #169 (permalink) |
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That's all I was talking about: just refresh everything before it goes bad instead of waiting for failure. I doubt there's a true "upgrade" available, but it's possible once you dig around that there are multiple manufacturers of replacement pumps, and some are better quality than others. A somewhat-related example: instead of going to direct to Nissan, you can get wheel hubs (front and rear) from a couple of different aftermarket bearing/hub mfgs of varying quality and durability...
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05-10-2013, 07:59 AM | #170 (permalink) | |
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Any opinion on the various hub manufacturers? I ended up ordering my new hubs through Nissan since the price was the same, not sure who's Nissan contract parts supplier is.
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05-11-2013, 02:49 AM | #171 (permalink) |
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Timken's supposed to be pretty damn good, and (as of recently) they make both front and rear hubs for our car. I think Moog does at least the rears, maybe front too, but I suspect Timken's better. You can look up the Timken hubs here: http://www.showmetheparts.com/timken/
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05-11-2013, 08:09 AM | #172 (permalink) |
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Yeah, I've been using Timken for years without issue on other vehicles, also saw that Beck/Arnley is making hubs but they are more budget line I think. I wouldn't be surprised if these hubs Nissan sent are actually Timken, but I couldn't find any identifying marks.
I've only heard one complaint from a owner about Timken, and that was with a 25 year old Corvette running race tires. She said that the Timken's started out good for her but then they hadn't been holding up in recent years. That is just one part out of millions though.
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07-16-2013, 11:57 PM | #173 (permalink) | |
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07-17-2013, 07:29 AM | #175 (permalink) |
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With the right mods you can be making good power all the way to 8k. To come out ahead you simply need to be making more power up top than you would at your usual RPM return point, i.e. if you make more power at 8k than at 5.5k then you have more power under the curve and your new return point would be 6k.
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07-17-2013, 08:40 AM | #176 (permalink) | |
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07-17-2013, 08:58 AM | #177 (permalink) |
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Or new IM with shorter runners and tuned headers for that rpm range, or an centi SC that has room to spin a bit more.
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07-17-2013, 09:03 AM | #178 (permalink) | |
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It's cam timing and head flow that limit the top end on these cars. And Chris (Spohn) all you have to do is make more power @ 8K than you do @ 5.5K and you automatically win. Almost everyone makes more power @ 8K than 5.5K, even with zero mods (other than raising the limiter). |
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07-21-2013, 11:47 PM | #179 (permalink) |
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While agree that we need more exhaust cam I may have some data that disputes lack of ability to make power above 7500 rpm with stock cams. And our cars with 4.09 rear end benefit greatly from higher redline. Not to mention shifting into even higher power band when you go into next gear. Unless you invest in close ratio tranny gears having higher rpm redline helps with our Grand Canyon tranny gearing.. Short shifting sucks with our stock gearbox.
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07-22-2013, 12:37 AM | #180 (permalink) | |
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