A.M. Performance Extra Capacity Baffled Racing Oil Pans

wstar · 09-16-2012, 02:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike

ditto. I want an LS7, so I can have a 700Z

Personally I like the look of this crate LS3 variant: http://store.chevroletperformance.co...-19244549--%3E

6.2L, 480hp, 475 ft-lbs, $8K brand new. Some googling ( Engine Weight LS3 (LS376-480) : MG Engine Swaps Forum : MG Experience Forums : The MG Experience ) says it only weighs 375lbs right out of the box. Description sounds like a nice flat torque curve too.

More realistically, though, I'll probably search for a cheap LS6 or LS7 from a wrecked vette

clintfocus · 09-17-2012, 01:44 PM

i would go LS3 also, LS7 is high strung cause of the bore to stroke ratio and piston sideloads. plus thin piston walls. Theirs a reason the Zr1 is based on a LS3 motor when the wanted to go F/I

ValidusVentus · 09-28-2012, 05:38 AM

bump, any new developments on any front?

dastaco · 09-28-2012, 07:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ValidusVentus

bump, any new developments on any front?

I just sent you a pm

Rusty · 09-28-2012, 01:43 PM

You planning another run?

ValidusVentus · 09-30-2012, 07:51 AM

150 Lubricating System :: Engine Mechanical :: Genuine Nissan Parts :: 370Z Parts (Z34) 2009-2012 :: Nissan Parts, NISMO and Nissan Accessories - Courtesyparts.com

Shows the oil pump location if you wanted to look at it. My car is in the states, and I, currently am not. From a glance it looks as though it would be directly behind the belt/pulley assembly, might be hard to get open; though I would think you could open it up without draining the oil, it would be pretty easy to get crap in the sump = bad.

Edit: I too am interested in how or why the oil pump gears are substandard, and what this means for the weekend warrior.

takjak2 · 09-30-2012, 11:27 AM

To remove the oil pump:

REMOVAL
1. Remove oil pan (upper and lower) and oil strainer. Refer to EM-77, "Exploded View".
2. Remove front timing chain case and timing chain (primary). Refer to EM-50, "Exploded View".
3. Remove oil pump assembly.

Timing chain removed. Not easy.

DivZero · 10-01-2012, 09:02 AM

The gear is sintered metal (small metal pieces bonded together). This metal is suitable for lower temps but at race temps can disintegrate.

DR_ · 10-01-2012, 09:19 AM

But what is "race temps"?

ChrisSlicks · 10-01-2012, 10:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DivZero

The gear is sintered metal (small metal pieces bonded together). This metal is suitable for lower temps but at race temps can disintegrate.

Probably part of the reason for the 280F/300F engine protection.

DR_ · 10-01-2012, 11:50 AM

So at 260F temps do you think we are okay?

Megan370z · 10-01-2012, 02:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DR_

So at 260F temps do you think we are okay?

we cant be sure how much abuse the gear can hold

Ive got up to 145C *293F* when my VVEL decided to break down...
we now know that the oil temp on the VHR is taken right before going in the engine.
which mean there was probably a good 15-20C more which bring to 160-165C *320-329F* (having a dual oil cooler)

no matter how slow I was going to cool down,, nothing was bringing the temp down even with my oil cooler fan ON.

my guess is the oil pump is fine to that Race temp(260F* as someone said,without to much of a problem, but I would avoid revving pass 7900rpm
also having a heavier oil weight would probably help at that temp, (this is what ive been told ,,,)

ValidusVentus · 10-03-2012, 01:03 PM

So what I'm getting from this is if we keep our temps within reason there is no issue. Still my mind boggles at ever making engine oil pump gears out of such a material, sounds like metal plywood.

bmcd308 · 10-12-2012, 04:55 PM

@Megan370Z - If yours held up, then the rest of us probably don't need to worry.

Megan370z · 10-12-2012, 09:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bmcd308

@Megan370Z - If yours held up, then the rest of us probably don't need to worry.

for the 95% of 370z owners I totaly agree with you.

but there is that 5% that keep pushing to the limit and ofcourse if they dont have any support mod on the oilling system ,, that might/will also happen to them

I learned a quite expensive lesson but I take it with a smile and move on with Megan Version 2.0

09-28-2012, 05:38 AM	#138 (permalink)
ValidusVentus Enthusiast Member Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Washington State Posts: 400 Drives: #18 Z34 Rep Power: 23	bump, any new developments on any front? __________________ Mods: Dedicated caged track car, lots of things. \|\|\| Valkyrie Autosport \|\|\|

09-28-2012, 01:43 PM	#140 (permalink)
Rusty Ronin Samurai - Assassin Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky Age: 68 Posts: 35,181 Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M Rep Power: 2684437	You planning another run? __________________ 浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

09-30-2012, 07:51 AM	#141 (permalink)
ValidusVentus Enthusiast Member Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Washington State Posts: 400 Drives: #18 Z34 Rep Power: 23	150 Lubricating System :: Engine Mechanical :: Genuine Nissan Parts :: 370Z Parts (Z34) 2009-2012 :: Nissan Parts, NISMO and Nissan Accessories - Courtesyparts.com Shows the oil pump location if you wanted to look at it. My car is in the states, and I, currently am not. From a glance it looks as though it would be directly behind the belt/pulley assembly, might be hard to get open; though I would think you could open it up without draining the oil, it would be pretty easy to get crap in the sump = bad. Edit: I too am interested in how or why the oil pump gears are substandard, and what this means for the weekend warrior. __________________ Mods: Dedicated caged track car, lots of things. \|\|\| Valkyrie Autosport \|\|\| Last edited by ValidusVentus; 09-30-2012 at 08:25 AM.

09-30-2012, 11:27 AM	#142 (permalink)
takjak2 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Sterling, VA Posts: 1,922 Drives: Legit Racecar 370Z Rep Power: 142	To remove the oil pump: REMOVAL 1. Remove oil pan (upper and lower) and oil strainer. Refer to EM-77, "Exploded View". 2. Remove front timing chain case and timing chain (primary). Refer to EM-50, "Exploded View". 3. Remove oil pump assembly. Timing chain removed. Not easy. __________________ Mods \| Stuff \| Things \| Seat Time \| Nismo facebook.com/TeamSparrowSpeed

10-03-2012, 01:03 PM	#148 (permalink)
ValidusVentus Enthusiast Member Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Washington State Posts: 400 Drives: #18 Z34 Rep Power: 23	So what I'm getting from this is if we keep our temps within reason there is no issue. Still my mind boggles at ever making engine oil pump gears out of such a material, sounds like metal plywood. __________________ Mods: Dedicated caged track car, lots of things. \|\|\| Valkyrie Autosport \|\|\|

09-17-2012, 01:44 PM	#137 (permalink)
clintfocus Track Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: los angeles Age: 38 Posts: 933 Drives: 370z, EK Civic, F150 Rep Power: 15	i would go LS3 also, LS7 is high strung cause of the bore to stroke ratio and piston sideloads. plus thin piston walls. Theirs a reason the Zr1 is based on a LS3 motor when the wanted to go F/I

10-01-2012, 09:02 AM	#143 (permalink)
DivZero Base Member Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: San Luis Obispo, CA Posts: 66 Drives: G35 6MT Sedan Rep Power: 14	The gear is sintered metal (small metal pieces bonded together). This metal is suitable for lower temps but at race temps can disintegrate.

10-01-2012, 09:19 AM	#144 (permalink)
DR_ Track Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Dallas Posts: 981 Drives: Touring/Sport M6 PG Rep Power: 17	But what is "race temps"?

10-01-2012, 11:50 AM	#146 (permalink)
DR_ Track Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Dallas Posts: 981 Drives: Touring/Sport M6 PG Rep Power: 17	So at 260F temps do you think we are okay?

10-12-2012, 04:55 PM	#149 (permalink)
bmcd308 Base Member Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Chattanooga, TN Posts: 41 Drives: 09 370Z Red MT Rep Power: 13	@Megan370Z - If yours held up, then the rest of us probably don't need to worry.

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