Originally Posted by SharpByCoop Your OEM torque converter will limit howhigh your engine will rev. Did you pull a brake fuse to allow it to rev? If not you won't
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04-27-2016, 05:24 PM | #1501 (permalink) | |
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I'll also let the auto go and see what it can do for me then, I was looking for someone who has tried it both ways to let me know what works best and you did just that, so thank you very much. I guess I just didn't trust the ECU to allow me to hit just prior to the rev limiter before shifting, but it might actually be better at it than I am - just wasn't sure how 'conservative' the ECU was on shifts even at WOT. NST pulleys and ART pipes coming this summer, and maybe the motordyne manifold if I can bring myself to sacrifice my fantasy football dues, so looking forward to seeing some progress from this starting point.
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Precision 6266 - Switchback Racing 3.5" single exhaust - Switchback Racing oil catch can - Tial BoV/WG - Z1 oil cooler - Stillen trans cooler - Tein Street Basis coilovers - Megan rear sway bar - Konig Ampliforms Last edited by seanmorr370; 04-27-2016 at 10:08 PM. |
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04-27-2016, 10:19 PM | #1502 (permalink) |
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Here is a POV video from Sunday at the track. I had it aimed to high so you cant see much. I do have a better video of me launching on the street.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ULGVf1Jl-Vg
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09 Touring 12.33@113mph 338whp Last edited by ajcool2; 04-27-2016 at 10:22 PM. |
04-27-2016, 10:38 PM | #1503 (permalink) | |
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My bone stock 370 AT did 12.9 with 285-30-20 all seasons. I brake torqued 300rpm above idle |
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04-27-2016, 11:07 PM | #1504 (permalink) | |
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I didn't have any issues with grip at launch when I went to the track last week, but maybe that's because I'm not launching at high enough RPM. I'll be sure to pull the brake fuse tomorrow night when I go again, didn't know about that part until just a couple of days ago. Any input on whether or not I should swap to OEM intakes for the track instead of my K&N SRI? I know it helps with power as long as I've got plenty of air flowing into my intake ducts but waiting to stage in 90 degree heat is probably a whole different ballgame.
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Precision 6266 - Switchback Racing 3.5" single exhaust - Switchback Racing oil catch can - Tial BoV/WG - Z1 oil cooler - Stillen trans cooler - Tein Street Basis coilovers - Megan rear sway bar - Konig Ampliforms |
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04-28-2016, 12:25 AM | #1505 (permalink) | |
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04-28-2016, 09:29 AM | #1506 (permalink) | |
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Good luck! Coop
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04-28-2016, 10:58 PM | #1508 (permalink) |
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Went out today with the same result. Tried it in auto and it actually seemed to be .1-.2 seconds slower than when I shift in manual. I talked to a few people out there and it sounds like my biggest roadblock to hitting low 13s or a flat 13 is probably the heat and humidity down here. One guy told me that running in 50 degree weather and running in 80 degree weather with humidity tends to be about a .4-.5 difference for him in a N/A car. I'm also thoroughly convinced that the K&N Typhoon is robbing me of power on my launch vs. the OEM intake system, despite the several people who have told me it's better. I think there's just way too much heat under my hood after sitting around waiting to stage, then staging in this Florida heat.
The other problem I seem to have is that, even after pulling the brake lamp fuse (confirmed by testing my brake lights), I can't get my Z to do a standing burnout, and I can't get it to rev any higher than 1800 with the brakes applied. I understand that a standing burnout isn't really necessary on street tires, but I'm more concerned with the inability to launch any higher than 1800. I've looked all over these forums and everyone else seems to be able to do it just fine with the fused pulled so I'm stumped. This was my best run for the night. Going to give her a rest for the summer, figure out the fuse issue, put the stock intakes back on and sell these K&N Typhoons that are drinking hot air while I stage, maybe slap a couple of bolt-ons on her, then see what I can do this fall when it cools off down here.
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Precision 6266 - Switchback Racing 3.5" single exhaust - Switchback Racing oil catch can - Tial BoV/WG - Z1 oil cooler - Stillen trans cooler - Tein Street Basis coilovers - Megan rear sway bar - Konig Ampliforms Last edited by seanmorr370; 04-28-2016 at 11:26 PM. |
04-28-2016, 11:08 PM | #1509 (permalink) | |
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Corrected, not precise but 13.35 at 105.4 mph. 79 dgrees at 66%humidity I looked it all up using dragtimes android app, you can use dragtimes.com as well. Still, 13.3, nothing to be ashamed off, faster than alot of cars Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
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05-04-2016, 08:19 PM | #1510 (permalink) |
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Good Job; yes the heat definitely affects everything....not sure if your ~Z~ is a sport or base.
My base had an open diff & a standing burnout would not evenly heat tires;;;clicking of the spider gears after letting off occurred. Installed Quaife & haven't been to track yet/ but draws 2 even Black lines. Made a total of 6 passes stock/ best was 13.1@just under 105 & put in modified class because of K&N drop-in's...lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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05-04-2016, 08:20 PM | #1511 (permalink) |
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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05-05-2016, 12:22 PM | #1512 (permalink) | |
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Precision 6266 - Switchback Racing 3.5" single exhaust - Switchback Racing oil catch can - Tial BoV/WG - Z1 oil cooler - Stillen trans cooler - Tein Street Basis coilovers - Megan rear sway bar - Konig Ampliforms |
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05-06-2016, 08:19 PM | #1513 (permalink) |
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Weather started good that day,but took them a couple hours to get track right,,,around 60* air temp....Ran on Goodyear all season 275/40/18's with a good burnout....could not avoid water trap,,,also they use VHT or something on track/Sticky.
Logged a best 1.95 60' without holding rpm's up....only around 8-900 & flashed it hard. Noise after slightly powerbraking the burnouts made the clicking noise after I let off gas: sounded bad ;;; but I knew what the noise was. Going back after I get a tune.
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05-06-2016, 08:52 PM | #1514 (permalink) |
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Bout forgot; ck your rear alignment/ eccentric bolts will allow you to dial your camber a bit more positive; allowing the tires to be more upright,,,,but will also increase rear toe (gotta have some rear toe)
Max out your camber eccentric bolts (pushing bottom of tires out) & then adjust your toe eccentric bolts to put back in spec. I got rear camber arms now, with a more upright setup....putting new tires on tomorrow/ got the camber pulled + as much as the toe bolts will allow/// probably still around -1.0* (+ or - a tad) uneven front yard,pics are a little off. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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06-09-2016, 12:49 AM | #1515 (permalink) |
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Whenever I post here I feel like I'm late to the party lol. Anyway I took advantage of the cool air today and got a better time. Still haven't hit the dyno with my mods.
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