I recently replaced all 4 calipers on my car and went with less aggressive pads, everything did get better.
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02-02-2020, 08:47 AM | #257 (permalink) |
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I've been struggling with ice mode ever since I put in my Nismo Pro 2-Way diff. I'm taking the extreme approach and disabling ABS the next time I'm out to see if I can make that work. I hear that the brake bias will make it difficult, so I may also try putting in a bias adjuster to see if I can run without ABS with better control. I'm guessing a full Bosch ABS is the only 100% solution, but that's big $$.
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02-03-2020, 05:58 AM | #258 (permalink) |
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I drive a 350Z and had 'ice mode' issues too. My solution was to completely remove ABS from the car and install a proportioning valve for the rears. Tracking is just a hobby for me and this solution works best for peace of mind and performance.
I did try a number of other brake pads before going to the extreme of ABS removal. A wreck will help make that decision faster for you..
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02-03-2020, 07:57 PM | #261 (permalink) | |
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02-04-2020, 07:14 AM | #262 (permalink) | ||
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Quote:
https://www.jegs.com/i/Wilwood/950/3...SABEgLVrvD_BwE
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02-04-2020, 09:43 PM | #263 (permalink) | |
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08-25-2022, 04:06 PM | #264 (permalink) |
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Reviving this thread. I know Austin Hertel, he races in the same series as I do (with another car), but I built a "clubsport" Nismo that's a hardcore track car. The MK60 isn't an option for me because it deletes all other electronic functions like speedo/tach/etc. etc. The only way to do MK60 and keep the other OE stuff is to install an additional 4 wheel speed sensors and run BOTH ABS setups, which is ridiculous as well, and not really feasible for a street car.
My question is, the Bosch M5 Clubsport kit, is also available for our cars. Can that be installed and still keep use of all other OE functions? That setup, while still expensive, would be worth it IMO if you can still retain the other OE functions (speedo, etc.). The Bosch M5 Clubsport is like 7K. Yes, it's crazy expensive, but alot less expensive than putting my Nismo into a wall. I had my car lockup, yes, lockup the front wheels going into a corner where you have a slight bit of wheel in the car. It doesn't like that at all. Instead of giving me ABS pules, or Ice Mode, which it's done in that same corner before, this time, it just went to straight lockup, and torched my right front tire. That is some crazy ****. I own all kinds of track cars, and this is by far the worst ABS I've ever driven on. I have the right size tires F/R, have the right stagger in rear pads, all the best brake cooling. Years and years of driving and racing, so I know how to brake. What this means is that if you aren't perfect, which nobody is from time to time, then this will bite you, bad. That's just not an acceptable outcome, because if it happended at another track, I'd have been in a wall. |
08-25-2022, 09:51 PM | #265 (permalink) |
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Lost a front splitter on my autox car earlier this year for exactly this reason. Came in hard on a tight 180, hit a small bump and immediate lockup. Ended up in the uneven dirt off the pavement where the splitter dug in and broke into pieces. I just don't understand why an abs system that behaves this way makes any sense.
Out of curiousity, which MK60 units are people using? From what I found the version of the unit you want (the programmable one), is nearly impossible to get anywhere. Is there a reliable source to get them from still?
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08-25-2022, 10:00 PM | #266 (permalink) | |
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Contact these guys, they sell a Continental/Teves motorsport version of the MK60 for $3375 that comes with a full harness and everything. Turn-key. If my car wasn't such a nice, low mileage street car, I'd do it in an instant. https://www.rhtmotorsport.com/ |
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09-04-2022, 04:07 PM | #267 (permalink) | |
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09-04-2022, 04:09 PM | #268 (permalink) | |
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09-04-2022, 11:20 PM | #269 (permalink) | |
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HotrodZ has had it done. It took him forever to get the parts. Had to get them from Germany and it took a long while. He is in the testing phase of his car now. Had issues with overheating, working on that at the moment. |
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09-07-2022, 07:35 AM | #270 (permalink) | |
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There are some brake "tuning" solutions to limit the amount of brake force to the rear( like a manifold or inline system where you can manually dial back the brake pressure. you can also meter it with different brake pad types, i.e. carbotech 8s in the front and something much less grippy but race durable in the rear. The other, more obvious solution is to manage brake inputs to limit the effect. On open track, I had Carbotech 10s and 8s. I found that i had some rear lock ups.. after a few laps the ice mode decided to join the party and sent me off the track a few times. backing off my brake inputs and "feeling for" what i could get away with (aggressive braking-wise) helped me stay in a pocket of functionality. But, i noticed more rear bias than necessary on the pads. my solution was foot to pedal managing and flowing through the courses a bit more efficiently made it better, but considered a bias control manifold... I since turbo'ed the car and this more of a grenade at that level of abuse. im considering buying another Z for a stripped down built na track build. but thats down the track.. that ice garbage will just get eliminated with a haltech ecu/
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