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Glad you experienced it safely... today would be a good opp'n to make it happen intentionally in a safe spot and then try to recover... might want to tell the
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#1 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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Glad you experienced it safely... today would be a good opp'n to make it happen intentionally in a safe spot and then try to recover... might want to tell the session organizer you are doing this as a heads up
If any of the wheel speed sensors stop working, ABS is disabled... one could wire a switch to any of those sensors... I don't recall if that dash light comes on, however... also, the car requires a restart to get ABS going again - likely will not be able to toggle it back on as a hot switch |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Aggressive engine braking was one of the triggers for me, as even with the throttle blip it can cause the rear wheels to lock up when trying to brake with maximum potential (as the ABS tries to maximize rear braking potential). I downshift a lot later now so as to not send the RPM's too high.
Brake balance is critical. I can get the ice-mode a little when cold if I'm running different pad compounds front and rear that come up to temperature at different rates and have different sweet spots for their torque curve. When hot it is usually later in the session when the front pads get overheated and the ABS system has too much rear bias dialed in causing the rear to lock up especially if you stab the brake. With the right pad setup and more calculated application of the brake pedal I can avoid it 99% of the time. Some brake ducting would help a lot as well I think.
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