Ice mode solution?

AutoX Z

No it's a problem with the ABS computer. In heavy braking situations (tracking and autox) the abs wll engage early and limit the overall braking to maybe 30%. It seems to get worse with heat and "stabbing" the brakes.

It would make sense that pads with better bite would make it harder to be gentle on initial application and make ice mode happen more frequently. Maybe the solution is to use a less aggressive pad and give up some overall braking performance. I've also considered playing with dramatically different pads front and rear to change the brake balance.

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2013 SCCA Solo National Champion
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Shamu

Its interesting that you say that as my first run at SD NT I had no ABS Ice mode ISSUES, but after my co driver ran brakes were much warmer and then I got abs issue 2ND AND 3RD RUNS. I almost squirted the brake calipers and rotors. Wish I had tried that but I thought no heat wouldn't cause that!

I'm hearing that maybe changing proportioning more to the front and putting smaller calipers/pads on rear might be a solution. Its the issue with rears locking up that causes the computer to freak out. Less pad up front would be opposite of what you want to do if this is the case. Makes sense if you think about dynamics of braking on our cars. Weight shifts from rear where things are already light and those big rear calipers and rotors start to lock up rear wheels. Has anyone experimented with putting crappy pads on the back?

My class I have more options than stock guys. Has anyone in stock tried throwing terrible pads on the rear? Thats how I used to balance my race car sometimes. If issue is truly wheel speed problem because rears are locking up too easily why not put the worst pads ever back there. Or if you can down grade to base model rear brake - I dont know is there a difference? For my car we are going with old 350 Z Brembo caliper and rotor which is smaller. You poor stock class guys cant do that.

Man and I feel for you stock guys on oil temps. even with GTM cooler on my car we were seeing 220 oil temps and we were spraying the cooler.

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Grant

AutoX Z

It's definitely heat related. With good 5 minute spacing between runs it will usually only happen when braking near or at the end of a run. However at local events when we end up lapping closer to 2 minutes apart it will happen during every major braking event.

You should be able to just pull the ABS fuse in SP or disable it in some other way.

For me it's time to start playing with pads. I'm thinking hawk hps may be a good starting point as people are always criticizing their initial bite characteristics.

Oh and don't spray your brakes with water between runs unless you want to crack and/or warp your rotors instantly. And for engine temps we leave the engine running with the defrost cranked at full heat and the hood open to cool the car. We can usually keep it 220-240 with no cooler

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2013 SCCA Solo National Champion
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ChrisSlicks

Just don't try the HP+, those were a dismal failure for me, even just front only. I think the problem with the HPS is that they will still be affected badly by heat. The Mintex Extreme has a reasonable heat rating (not as high as XP10) and not a very hard bite. It has worked well for me although I am no longer on stock calipers.

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