The heat issue is only really an issue on the hotter days and if you are co-driving. I've had my brakes hot enough to cause fluid fade in auto-x but that only happened once and that was after doing 3 back to back runs after several other runs (co-driving and then a re-run). The issue with heat is that it shifts the brake bias even more rearward which the ABS controller doesn't deal with very well.

So essentially still no fix guys?

Its interesting that you say that as my first run at SD NT I had no ABS Ice mode ISSUES, but after my co driver ran brakes were much warmer and then I got abs issue 2ND AND 3RD RUNS. I almost squirted the brake calipers and rotors. Wish I had tried that but I thought no heat wouldn't cause that!

I'm hearing that maybe changing proportioning more to the front and putting smaller calipers/pads on rear might be a solution. Its the issue with rears locking up that causes the computer to freak out. Less pad up front would be opposite of what you want to do if this is the case. Makes sense if you think about dynamics of braking on our cars. Weight shifts from rear where things are already light and those big rear calipers and rotors start to lock up rear wheels. Has anyone experimented with putting crappy pads on the back?

My class I have more options than stock guys. Has anyone in stock tried throwing terrible pads on the rear? Thats how I used to balance my race car sometimes. If issue is truly wheel speed problem because rears are locking up too easily why not put the worst pads ever back there. Or if you can down grade to base model rear brake - I dont know is there a difference? For my car we are going with old 350 Z Brembo caliper and rotor which is smaller. You poor stock class guys cant do that.

Man and I feel for you stock guys on oil temps. even with GTM cooler on my car we were seeing 220 oil temps and we were spraying the cooler.

I can throw my XP10 on in the front and leave the stock in the rears and try that

It's definitely heat related. With good 5 minute spacing between runs it will usually only happen when braking near or at the end of a run. However at local events when we end up lapping closer to 2 minutes apart it will happen during every major braking event.

You should be able to just pull the ABS fuse in SP or disable it in some other way.

For me it's time to start playing with pads. I'm thinking hawk hps may be a good starting point as people are always criticizing their initial bite characteristics.

Oh and don't spray your brakes with water between runs unless you want to crack and/or warp your rotors instantly. And for engine temps we leave the engine running with the defrost cranked at full heat and the hood open to cool the car. We can usually keep it 220-240 with no cooler

Just don't try the HP+, those were a dismal failure for me, even just front only. I think the problem with the HPS is that they will still be affected badly by heat. The Mintex Extreme has a reasonable heat rating (not as high as XP10) and not a very hard bite. It has worked well for me although I am no longer on stock calipers.

Heat was never an issue with me relating to ice mode. Ice mode occurs the harder/quicker I stab the brakes. I have done a few track events at the Z, the car will do it hot or cold or warm.

I'm curious if the issue has been experienced by anyone with the base brakes. I've obviously run into heat issues, but haven't yet experienced the reduced brake force the way you guys are describing. Might help narrow down the issue if it isn't being experienced on the base brakes.

Good point, but after pushing my base brakes to the point that Triple's could smell my brakes burning half a mile behind me with smoke billowing off them, I would not think they could last long enough or have enough bite to equal the conditions that trigger ice mode with the Akebonos.

Considering it happens to other cars too...I would imagine it has more to do with the programing of the ABS system. The worst part is that it's really only a matter of time before someone crashes on the track because of this. I've been really hesitant to get back out there and this is partly why. Even when the car was completely stock, I almost went off twice at a hairpin, if there had been anyone in front of me, it would not have been pretty. Maybe AM Racing has some kind of an answer for us considering they are building that gran-am 370z.

yup,corvettes, even 350 had it. my rx8 never had it, probably because it never went fast enough to have huge nose dives.

i just learn to modulate my pedals better.

now i wonder if the problem will get better or worse if i were to put a set of slicks on my car

I just got my Z and haven't experienced "ice mode" yet, but then again i've been going easy on it for the first 1200 miles. I plan to take it to the track in the future, so I'm curious what exactly you guys are talking about.

It sounds to me like people are simply describing brake fade. Or is there something different about "ice mode" that differentiates this from brake fade?

It is not brake fade as the brakes go from their full functions to having to braking power almost instantly. It is not a gradual decrease but a sudden loss of braking power.

Your pedal goes straight to the floor when your brakes fade, the car also won't stop. When you hit ice mode, brake pedal is as solid as ever. The ABS just pulsate and won't give you much braking power.

I understood it is not heat related, besides that, if you got to that point, you should have been hot enough to trigger the condition if it was.

From what I can tell, it's due to issues with the ABS controller. It may be worth looking into why it doesn't seem to occur on base setups.