New Best 1/4 !! 12.24 @ 111.81

KaienZ34 · 02-26-2011, 11:57 PM

It's in the upper 70's here as well, great times by the way. You going for less weight when you change brake rotors or just better stopping power or both ?

CrownR426 · 02-27-2011, 03:20 AM

I think because you have auto and most people on the board have manual.
Idc what most of the members say but auto > manual for our 370z's.
The manual gearbox is not the greatest and I believe the auto is best when it comes to drag racing.

tranceformer · 02-27-2011, 08:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CrownR426

I think because you have auto and most people on the board have manual.
Idc what most of the members say but auto > manual for our 370z's.
The manual gearbox is not the greatest and I believe the auto is best when it comes to drag racing.

ummm who are you talking to? jnaut or z eliminator?

KaienZ34 · 02-27-2011, 09:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tranceformer

ummm who are you talking to? jnaut or z eliminator?

I'm wondering the same ?????

Z eliminator · 02-27-2011, 12:12 PM

To tell the truth about the 7 AT. Its a pain at the drag strip.
1 the stall is to low on the conerter.
2 the ecu is a major pain on lauching the car
3 with the 4.08 gears the 1 to 2nd to 3 rd gear changes are really quick and its easy to hit the rev limiter at 8100
4 the tack is out by 250 rpm, (it get worse as you get closer to 8100.

I now have a gtm converter in the car. No comments yet as its very cold and lots of snow up here. From idle to 8100 rpm takes me 2.1 seconds.
FRom 1700 rpm it take 1.91 seconds. ( data from COBB )
Not sure what the new stall is as i need new back brakes
You have to turn of the VDC and pull the break fuse.
If i ever get this car to launch at 2500 to 2700 rpm its going to run in the 12.48 to 12.50.
Im looking at line lock to save my back brakes
Now on the street its a whole different animal. Rev it lift and punch it and hold on for your life. Or go around a corner and half way through punch it and you better hang on for your life..
If i could only do that at the track
I did a brake stand on the starting line got it up to 2700 rpm the back tires spinning before the car left the line and got the lecture of my life from the track starter. Told never to do that again. It was my best 60 ft time 1.91 ,but for some reason shifting from 3rd to 4th the rev limiter kicked in at 7500 instead of 8100. It still ran a 12.85. That would have been a 12.6 for sure.
It is not easy at the 1/4 mile track as people think it is.
when i heat up the drag radials the ecu bogs the car as it almost stalls cause the rev's are to low and the tires are really sticky.
Track open April 2nd will post time's
12.800 is really good for a 7 AT.

Z

jnaut · 02-27-2011, 02:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KaienZ34

It's in the upper 70's here as well, great times by the way. You going for less weight when you change brake rotors or just better stopping power or both ?

yes changing for both reasons...

KaienZ34 · 02-27-2011, 02:41 PM

cool deal thanks

Z eliminator · 02-27-2011, 07:57 PM

J naut have you talked to Rentless about his " fixed 2 piece brake roter's ?

Z

tranceformer · 02-27-2011, 07:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Z eliminator

To tell the truth about the 7 AT. Its a pain at the drag strip.
1 the stall is to low on the conerter.
2 the ecu is a major pain on lauching the car
3 with the 4.08 gears the 1 to 2nd to 3 rd gear changes are really quick and its easy to hit the rev limiter at 8100
4 the tack is out by 250 rpm, (it get worse as you get closer to 8100.

I now have a gtm converter in the car. No comments yet as its very cold and lots of snow up here. From idle to 8100 rpm takes me 2.1 seconds.
FRom 1700 rpm it take 1.91 seconds. ( data from COBB )
Not sure what the new stall is as i need new back brakes
You have to turn of the VDC and pull the break fuse.
If i ever get this car to launch at 2500 to 2700 rpm its going to run in the 12.48 to 12.50.
Im looking at line lock to save my back brakes
Now on the street its a whole different animal. Rev it lift and punch it and hold on for your life. Or go around a corner and half way through punch it and you better hang on for your life..
If i could only do that at the track
I did a brake stand on the starting line got it up to 2700 rpm the back tires spinning before the car left the line and got the lecture of my life from the track starter. Told never to do that again. It was my best 60 ft time 1.91 ,but for some reason shifting from 3rd to 4th the rev limiter kicked in at 7500 instead of 8100. It still ran a 12.85. That would have been a 12.6 for sure.
It is not easy at the 1/4 mile track as people think it is.
when i heat up the drag radials the ecu bogs the car as it almost stalls cause the rev's are to low and the tires are really sticky.
Track open April 2nd will post time's
12.800 is really good for a 7 AT.

Z

I do a quick burnout before every launch and I've been telling myself to check my rear brakes for a while....

I've even gone as far as removing the brake light fuse, and replacing with a switch (w/ inline fuse). Pull up to the track, flip the switch burn out all I want. Flip the switch and drive home.

Not as good as a dedicated line-lock but it works.

Jordo! · 02-27-2011, 08:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tranceformer

I do a quick burnout before every launch and I've been telling myself to check my rear brakes for a while....

I've even gone as far as removing the brake light fuse, and replacing with a switch (w/ inline fuse). Pull up to the track, flip the switch burn out all I want. Flip the switch and drive home.

Not as good as a dedicated line-lock but it works.

Could you make a little write up on how to do that...?

tranceformer · 02-27-2011, 09:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jordo!

Could you make a little write up on how to do that...?

It's easier than you'd think. I'll post more pics later... kinda wish I took a pic of the assembly before I installed it in the car!

things you'll need:
-several feet of wire (two wires from fuse box to center console / armrest)
-add-a-circuit thingie
-inline fuse (10A i think?)
-switch
-(2) male quick-connects
-(2) female quick-connects

Clip the male quick-connects so that they're about the width of the blades on the fuses. This is what you will use to connect the wires to the add-a-circuit part. Both leads will connect to the terminals on the switch, except one will need to have a fuse (as close as possible to the add-a-circuit part, also on the + lead IIRC).

I found a decent looking switch from this forum, a simple SPST switch mounted on the armrest. Routing the wire was pretty easy too, no panels need to be removed. Start by the fuse box and route it above the foot well, under the steering wheel area. Then when you get to the center stack area, kinda where the knee pads are, just slip it right under the bottom of the panels. Then to the armrest, where you pull up on the cupholder panel (ooops i lied).

I really should have taken pics instead of installing then heading straight to the track....

Z eliminator · 02-28-2011, 08:46 AM

J naut go to the brake section there's a group buy on light weight 2 piece brake rotors

Z

Z eliminator · 02-28-2011, 08:49 AM

Keep me informed on the drag race front wheels..

Z

red6spd · 02-28-2011, 11:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 3.SLOW6MT

There is a full standalone coming out fool. It's about $1200

Oh true, well 1200 is ummmm ALOT!!!!!!!!!! HAHAHAHAHA... Your wife wont let you get it anyway. LOL

Z eliminator · 02-28-2011, 12:29 PM

Who's making the stand alone unit ?

02-26-2011, 11:57 PM	#31 (permalink)
KaienZ34 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: LA. not L.a. Posts: 21,652 Drives: Z34 Tour/Sport Rep Power: 178	It's in the upper 70's here as well, great times by the way. You going for less weight when you change brake rotors or just better stopping power or both ? __________________ *"These Violent Delights Have Violent Ends"* http://www.the370z.com/members/kaienz34-albums-z34.html

02-27-2011, 03:20 AM	#32 (permalink)
CrownR426 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: South Korea Posts: 4,676 Drives: Manual Rep Power: 848	I think because you have auto and most people on the board have manual. Idc what most of the members say but auto > manual for our 370z's. The manual gearbox is not the greatest and I believe the auto is best when it comes to drag racing. __________________ Love + Hardwork + Passion RIP SVTRacer

02-27-2011, 12:12 PM	#35 (permalink)
Z eliminator A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Ontario Canada Posts: 1,659 Drives: 370 Z 7AT Sports Rep Power: 19	To tell the truth about the 7 AT. Its a pain at the drag strip. 1 the stall is to low on the conerter. 2 the ecu is a major pain on lauching the car 3 with the 4.08 gears the 1 to 2nd to 3 rd gear changes are really quick and its easy to hit the rev limiter at 8100 4 the tack is out by 250 rpm, (it get worse as you get closer to 8100. I now have a gtm converter in the car. No comments yet as its very cold and lots of snow up here. From idle to 8100 rpm takes me 2.1 seconds. FRom 1700 rpm it take 1.91 seconds. ( data from COBB ) Not sure what the new stall is as i need new back brakes You have to turn of the VDC and pull the break fuse. If i ever get this car to launch at 2500 to 2700 rpm its going to run in the 12.48 to 12.50. Im looking at line lock to save my back brakes Now on the street its a whole different animal. Rev it lift and punch it and hold on for your life. Or go around a corner and half way through punch it and you better hang on for your life.. If i could only do that at the track I did a brake stand on the starting line got it up to 2700 rpm the back tires spinning before the car left the line and got the lecture of my life from the track starter. Told never to do that again. It was my best 60 ft time 1.91 ,but for some reason shifting from 3rd to 4th the rev limiter kicked in at 7500 instead of 8100. It still ran a 12.85. That would have been a 12.6 for sure. It is not easy at the 1/4 mile track as people think it is. when i heat up the drag radials the ecu bogs the car as it almost stalls cause the rev's are to low and the tires are really sticky. Track open April 2nd will post time's 12.800 is really good for a 7 AT. Z __________________ 12.343 @114.14 . 4.5 stroker motor is now being built. Dec 1 2015.

02-27-2011, 02:41 PM	#37 (permalink)
KaienZ34 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: LA. not L.a. Posts: 21,652 Drives: Z34 Tour/Sport Rep Power: 178	cool deal thanks __________________ *"These Violent Delights Have Violent Ends"* http://www.the370z.com/members/kaienz34-albums-z34.html

02-27-2011, 07:57 PM	#38 (permalink)
Z eliminator A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Ontario Canada Posts: 1,659 Drives: 370 Z 7AT Sports Rep Power: 19	J naut have you talked to Rentless about his " fixed 2 piece brake roter's ? Z __________________ 12.343 @114.14 . 4.5 stroker motor is now being built. Dec 1 2015.

02-28-2011, 08:46 AM	#42 (permalink)
Z eliminator A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Ontario Canada Posts: 1,659 Drives: 370 Z 7AT Sports Rep Power: 19	J naut go to the brake section there's a group buy on light weight 2 piece brake rotors Z __________________ 12.343 @114.14 . 4.5 stroker motor is now being built. Dec 1 2015.

02-28-2011, 08:49 AM	#43 (permalink)
Z eliminator A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Ontario Canada Posts: 1,659 Drives: 370 Z 7AT Sports Rep Power: 19	Keep me informed on the drag race front wheels.. Z __________________ 12.343 @114.14 . 4.5 stroker motor is now being built. Dec 1 2015.

02-28-2011, 12:29 PM	#45 (permalink)
Z eliminator A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Ontario Canada Posts: 1,659 Drives: 370 Z 7AT Sports Rep Power: 19	Who's making the stand alone unit ? __________________ 12.343 @114.14 . 4.5 stroker motor is now being built. Dec 1 2015.